Forgive my ignorance, but is a 4g64 a lot cheaper than a 4g63 ? I would have thought the 4g63 route with a GSC like stroker would be the easy way to go. I am consider a 2.2L and would like to rev to 8500 + -- so your thoughts are appreciated.

 

No, a 4G64 is slightly more expensive because you have to buy a block and machine it for oil squirters. The benefit is running 6mm longer rods which gives a better rod/stroke ratio. Either way I don't see any reason to buy a "stroker kit" because I can buy the parts I want myself and get off cheaper. For example, I built my entire short block including machining for a lot less than the $3,500 GSC gets for that kit. Granted, that kit comes with a billet crank, but that's not a big deal to me. My motor should easily rev 8,500 rpm .

 

nm...covered in above post. I'm going to go back to lurking...it's safer.

 

You can post in my thread any time. Some other people are just dicks, but I don't mind questions at all.

 

subscribing

 

Sorry, did you mean the 4g64 route is cheaper (since you built your entire short block for less than the stroker kits)? What about doing a dry sump system - do folks with evos ever go that route or is it just too costly?

I love what you are doing and would love to build a nice motor. I think you have given me the kick in the butt that was needed. Thanks

 

If I built my existing 4G63 block it would be cheaper than my 4G64, but I still spent less on the entire 4G64 short block than only the kit from GSC costs. If I built my 4G63, I would have needed all the same parts except 6mm shorter rods, and no oil squirter machining. My point is that when you buy a kit you're just paying someone else to piece together pistons, rods, crank, and bearings for you. They all say they sell their own "spec" pistons, but I don't see any reason why they are better than off the shelf pistons. Of course this only makes sense if you are willing to do your own work and build your own motor. If you're not, buying a short block that is already built makes sense.

Dry sump is possible, but very expensive. I like the idea of it, but it's just too expensive for my blood. The stock oiling system is very good as long as it is kept full, so you would have to be VERY hardcore to really need a dry sump system.

 

I bought some dryer ducting and a flange to make sure the motor gets all the cold air it wants. It will be plumbed up through the intercooler sprayer used to be.

 

Looks like you did your homework, very nice build, i bet you cant wait to fire her up! Good luck with everything.

 

I think the duct is my new favorite thing on my car, lol. It took 30 minutes to build and came out very nice. I just have to paint it black to go with the stealth theme, but I am going to wait until I test fit the bumper and make sure it fits how I want it to. I also painted my Buschur 3" exhaust black except for the chrome parts to make it look finished.

 

I got the right wastegates today. I originally ordered the 38mm v-bands because I thought that was what the manifold was flanged for , but it actually requires 44's. WAY overkill, but I guess thats the way it goes. I had to do a little massaging to get it to fit with the A/C, but I think it will work. It is really tight though, so I'm curious to see how AFI routes the downpipe to make it fit.

 

 

I got a bunch of stuff in the mail yesterday from Buschur, so I was able to get quite a bit done today. All that is left to do is wire the Hobbs switch and put the turbo on. It should run in the next couple days if I get the rest of the turbo parts.

For you guys with a Buschur Double Pumper, did you just leave the stock fuel line that connected to the pump housing, or did you take it out? I left mine because it looks like a big PITA to get it out.

 

awesome build mate keep it up! I'm hoping to do almost the same, except with 100mm crank and 156mm rods. Good luck mate!

 

Well I fired her up yesterday and she started right up. It sounded like crap and I thought I f'd up the valve timing or something until I realized I had the MAF sensor unplugged, lol. Once I plugged that in it idled like a champ even on the revolvers on a stock tune. The bigger motor and higher compression must really help the bigger cams idle.

Now for the bad news. Just like I had thought, the clutch isn't right and doesn't engage. Also I have an oil leak which I think is coming from the bell housing, so the tranny is gonna have to come back off. Hopefully I'll have it fixed and running by the middle/end of next week.