4G64 Long Rod 2.2L Build
Well I had a couple hours by myself while the old lady went out with her friend today, so I decided to do some baking, lol. I pulled my headlights apart to black them out. I am going to paint them completely black except for the high beam reflector housing. The tail lights will be next once these are done. I think the black headlights with the black intercooler will look pretty nice on a red car. Especially once it has some black RE30's or NT03's.
I finished the headlights today. One thing I noticed about having black headlights is that your lenses have to be perfect. Mine are not because they have 100k on them, so the little rock chip specs are much more noticeable than with the stock chrome backing. I will polish the lenses and that should make them look a lot better.
Sorry, I've been out of town and I don't have internet right now, so I haven't been on EvoM lately.
Spec sent me a new pp and I put the trans back in. I can honestly say it is the easiest clutch I have ever driven. The only annoying part is that the clutch pedal has to be on the floor for it to dis-engage, but I think it will get better as the clutch breaks in. I have a small oil leak on the timing side of the motor, so I want to figure that out before I swap the stock turbo out for the HTA. I'm really happy with the way the car runs, and I think it will have a lot of power. It already feels quick just cruising around at part throttle. I was worried the Buschur Bullet exhaust would be obnoxious, but it actually just sounds plain mean, so I probably will keep that as is (unless the fuzz gives me a hard time). I'm going to work on the oil leak tomorrow, so hopefully I will put the turbo on in the next week, and have it tuned shortly after that.
Spec sent me a new pp and I put the trans back in. I can honestly say it is the easiest clutch I have ever driven. The only annoying part is that the clutch pedal has to be on the floor for it to dis-engage, but I think it will get better as the clutch breaks in. I have a small oil leak on the timing side of the motor, so I want to figure that out before I swap the stock turbo out for the HTA. I'm really happy with the way the car runs, and I think it will have a lot of power. It already feels quick just cruising around at part throttle. I was worried the Buschur Bullet exhaust would be obnoxious, but it actually just sounds plain mean, so I probably will keep that as is (unless the fuzz gives me a hard time). I'm going to work on the oil leak tomorrow, so hopefully I will put the turbo on in the next week, and have it tuned shortly after that.
I think I found the oil leak. The nut on the oil pump pulley was not tight, and oil was going down the pulley shaft and centrifugal force was spitting it out between the nut and the pulley. It was good that I had a look anyway, because the belt seemed to tight so I adjusted that at the same time.
I'm hoping that concludes the oil leaks, they drive me nuts.
I'm hoping that concludes the oil leaks, they drive me nuts.
Well it seems as though the oil leak is fixed, and the motor seems like a champ after about 40 miles on it. Now I just have to figure out the oil feed line on the HTA turbo because the one AFI sold me will not work with the T4 1.00 exhaust housing because the housing hangs over the CHRA too much. I ordered two separate times from Summit hoping to find the right fittings, but none of them clear the exhaust housing. How are people getting oil to these turbos? I'm thinking banjo, or having something made is my only option, but I will call FP first and see what they do.
Also, I hate driving a dirty car, so I detailed it today. I think it looks pretty good for a stock looking Evo with 100k+ on it.

Also, I hate driving a dirty car, so I detailed it today. I think it looks pretty good for a stock looking Evo with 100k+ on it.

After looking at FP's website, they have this
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...Lancer-TurboHW
It lists it as NPT though, and the thread size on my turbo is 7/16-24 inverted flare (brake line thread I think). Is the one that says T3T4 in the option menu the right one? Any help would be appreciated.
And here's pictures of what I'm talking about with the exhaust housing interfering with the oil feed line.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...Lancer-TurboHW
It lists it as NPT though, and the thread size on my turbo is 7/16-24 inverted flare (brake line thread I think). Is the one that says T3T4 in the option menu the right one? Any help would be appreciated.
And here's pictures of what I'm talking about with the exhaust housing interfering with the oil feed line.

Last edited by dsevo; Jul 17, 2009 at 06:15 PM.
Nice car man. Great build also. I did my own head lights and while back along with the rear tail lights. The rear tail lights I f-ed up bought jdm 7 ones. You need to cut them with a cut off wheel nice, nice and then re seal them. Not like the head lights that just pulled apart.
in the picture that shows your oil feed line... it looks like your center section is rotated 90 degrees to much... it also looks like your feed line fitting is parallel to the car ...... That picture is confusing me a little. if I am looking at it correctly, I think my rotating your center section, you will be able to fit that line in there, versus using the banjo bolt method on the CHRA.
in the picture that shows your oil feed line... it looks like your center section is rotated 90 degrees to much... it also looks like your feed line fitting is parallel to the car ...... That picture is confusing me a little. if I am looking at it correctly, I think my rotating your center section, you will be able to fit that line in there, versus using the banjo bolt method on the CHRA.
Thanks for looking guys.
Just a heads up, I doubt this is your problem, but... I had an oil leak at the oil pump sprocket. I found the nut was loose, tightened it, and thought everything was ok. A couple days later even more oil was leaking from the lower timing belt cover. This time I pulled the sprocket off and found that the oil pump sprocket shaft had dug into the front cover and made it eccentric. Put in a new front cover, oil pump, rod and main bearings just in case and all has been fine since (about 2 years since this happened).
My motor was only about a week old when this happened. I assumed it happened either because of too much tension on the belt (which I doubt), or lack of lubing the oil pump up enough before first start up.
My motor was only about a week old when this happened. I assumed it happened either because of too much tension on the belt (which I doubt), or lack of lubing the oil pump up enough before first start up.
Just a heads up, I doubt this is your problem, but... I had an oil leak at the oil pump sprocket. I found the nut was loose, tightened it, and thought everything was ok. A couple days later even more oil was leaking from the lower timing belt cover. This time I pulled the sprocket off and found that the oil pump sprocket shaft had dug into the front cover and made it eccentric. Put in a new front cover, oil pump, rod and main bearings just in case and all has been fine since (about 2 years since this happened).
My motor was only about a week old when this happened. I assumed it happened either because of too much tension on the belt (which I doubt), or lack of lubing the oil pump up enough before first start up.
My motor was only about a week old when this happened. I assumed it happened either because of too much tension on the belt (which I doubt), or lack of lubing the oil pump up enough before first start up.


