Been following this thread from the beginning. Cool project and good luck getting it buttoned up.

 

This car is starting to **** me off. I fixed the oil leak, no big deal, but something is wrong with the clutch, and Spec is closed until July 7th. So I pretty much have to sit around and wait until then. I pulled the trans yesterday morning, and everything was installed correctly. What I did notice is that the pressure plate almost sits on the flywheel without even being bolted down. Every other clutch I've ever worked on would sit about 1/2" from the flywheel because of the spring tension, while this clutch only has about 1mm before it is clamped flush. I've included a picture of it without bolts in it so you can see what I mean.

 

Man you are following my path, start the motor and then find leaks - pull the tranny etc. I have had my fair share of hate for my car as well. Best of luck sorting it all out.

 

Lol, and I told myself before I started it that I hope I don't have Jid's luck and it just starts and I drive it. Who was I kidding though, it never works that way. Well at least I got to hear the motor to give me some motivation. It sounds completely badass.

 

Mine



How it should be

 

Well hopefully I can talk Spec into sending a new one out on Tuesday. I really want to drive this thing.

 

FWIW, I did call Spec letting them know that I thought something was wrong with the clutch after I installed the trans. They told me to just try to run it and see, so I wasn't completely oblivious.

 

Personally, I left the stock line in the car (re: BR dual pump). What did you end up doing with yours?

I like the air duct. Doesn't take away from any of the cooling aspect on the brakes does it? Anything substantial, at least? Can you post up some pics of how it is routed to the intake as well?

Great looking build!

 

I think the intake is going to take a little more work. I built it without ic pipes on the car, and I think the UICP may hit. I'll post detailed pictures once I put the bumper on and make it all fit right. It shouldn't take away from brake cooling because that duct didn't really have any route to the brakes anyway. In the future I would like to make it feed air to the brakes too, but thats another day.

 

soo far its looking pretty good ... good luck

 

On another note, I will be very interested to know what you think of this clutch once it is fixed...especially in this configuration. With the exception of the turbo, yours is the combination I am shooting for. Walker (Drifto) was really excited about this clutch when I was down at his shop last year. Unfortunately, his car was out of service when I was there, so I did not get to sample it.

And going way back in the build, when you spec'd the rods, did you simply request a 6mm longer rod than a standard rod? Did you ever consider a piston with the wrist pin moved up a few millimeters to be able to go to say an 8mm longer rod? Would something like that even be possible/practical? I have so much to learn on the "custom" end of things.

Oh, $hit...I let my green show. The shame, the humilation.

 

I will definitely let you know about the clutch. I don't expect anything other than a great driving clutch, otherwise I would have already switched to something different.

As for the rods, they are not custom. The only custom part is my pistons. The rods are available from Manley in 150mm, 156mm, and 162mm lengths. I opted for the longest and then had the pistons built to work with them. I basically chose an off the shelf stroker piston which has the pin moved up 6mm, and then had them moved up another 3mm for a total of 9mm less compression height. It isn't anything that exotic, other than running an oil ring support rail because the wrist pin is now moved so high it is behind the oil ring. JohnBradley has a picture of a piston with the same specs. I'll post it below so you can see where the pin is located.

 

Oh yeah, and one more thing. Drifto (Walker) has been a huge help in answering questions about my clutch even though I did not buy it from him. He even went out of his way to call friends and find info/answers for me. for a great guy.

 

what bore size are you running mate?

 

87mm. If I had to do it all over again though I would have found a good block and ran 86.5mm. The more cylinder wall material the better on the 4G64's. Then you can run the HKS head gasket too, which is what Norris runs in England.