Ya the reason I asked is when we degreed my buddies Revolvers we were off by like 22 crank degrees so had to adjust his intake cam by 11 degrees. His car ran great using those cam settings and ran a best of 11.0 with a Green.

He is on a Red now and he switched to the BF272 at the same time. But he actually switched back to the Revolvers because he felt the BF's were a bit lazy. But now he misses the top end of the BF's lol

Anyway, I think now we are the only two people who have degreed Revolvers that have posted on this board and both of us found the intake cam was way off. Interesting and glad to see some confirmation. But Revolvers are nasty mid range cam with a steep ramp! Sweet lopey idle. But top end is sort of not there.

 

Ya, your post is why I checked them. I'm very glad I did, and I learned something new. I find it very strange that the intake cams are consistently off. That also explains why when I ran them before I had to run the intake at -2, otherwise there was a loud tick that never went away. It turns out that tick was piston to valve interference. Had I not run the cams before and liked them I definitely would not run them after seeing that.

I think the mid range of these cams on top of the bigger displacement and twin scroll HTA setup will make for a really nice all around car. I'm getting very anxious to drive this thing on E85.

 

Ya it's gonna feel great I'm sure. I'm pleased with the power of my car on our very crappy fuel down here. But on race fuel it's just ridiculous so I'm sure E85 will be very scary for you.

Should be interesting to see where you end up in terms of response. I'm on a single scroll 35r and 2.4 and make 30 psi at 4500 rpm in 4th gear. If the twin-scroll does it job you should be lower which is like response somewhere around a Green or a Red!

 

Santa Clause in the brown uniform came yesterday. He dropped off a black ETS 4" intercooler. The quality seems very good. Hopefully it keeps those AIT's low.

The first picture is my cat Enzo checking out the new equipment.

 

I put the motor and tranny back in over the weekend.

I made a battery tray for my Deka battery this morning. I'm kinda running out of stuff to do since I'm waiting for parts from Buschur and AFI.

 

looks good.

I am still on the fence with using a 4g63 or 4g64 block for my rebuild......

 

Getting close!!

 

It's getting there. Buschur and AFI both said my stuff should ship soon, so hopefully it will be running by the end of next week.

As for 4G63 vs. 4G64 debate, it all depends on whether the Power Enterprises HG can hold. I liked being able to build the short block while the car was still running, and the cost difference was only about $300 for machining the oil squirters and the custom pistons. We'll see.

I also took a few pictures of the manifold after I got it back from being coated. It looks really nice.

 

Wow, looks nice!! Stroking is now a goal of mine!

 

I went to tighten the crank main pulley bolt today, and the clutch is just slipping instead of trying to turn the tires, so I'm a little concerned something is wrong with the clutch installation. I don't really know what I could have possibly done wrong, but it just doesn't seem right that clutch slips when I turn the motor over by hand.

Anyone ever heard of this?

 

Spec Super Twin...push type clutch, correct? Is it possible that the throw-out bearing was not fully collapsed when you installed it? Air in the throwout bearing keeping the clutch paritally disengaged? Did you clean the flywheel face and pressure plate(s) face(s) well? Could their friction material have some sort of non-grabby, gentle 'break-in' coating to facilitate good material transfer to the pressure plate(s) face(s)? All the pressure plate bolts torqued down? Car in neutral?

This was all offered up to get your mind working...HTH!

 

I have been following this thread and early on, I think it was from crcain, it was mentioned that the water pump was modified for this "high-rise deck" stroker using the 4g64. Just curious what had to be modified on it?

I am just starting to look in to the 4g64 2.2l stroker for many of the same reasons that dsevo cited...especially the one about keeping the car drivable and I can take my time (years knowing my luck with things of late...) to accumulate parts and build the engine.

Thanks! Looking forward to your results.

 

I appreciate your help. Yes I did clean everything. I am also wondering if it is just because its a new clutch. As for the tob, it is pushed all the way in, so if it is still releasing the clutch it must be machined wrong, which I think is very unlikely. The only other thing I can think of is that I'm using an Eagle crank and it is somehow longer toward the tranny, but I don't think thats likely either. When he car is in neutral the main shaft in the tranny spins, but when it is in gear nothing in the tranny spins because there is a load on it from the rear tires being on the ground.

 

I did read in your other thread that you have a Qurtermaster TOB? Is this what Spec sent with the clutch, or did you already have a push type setup and just left the TOB from the previous one in there? If the latter, could it be the Quartermaster TOB is too "tall"?

Everyhting else being equal (all bolts tight, no TOB problems, etc.) I would maybe chalk it up to the clutch discs not being bedded.

For good hands-on second opinions on this particular clutch, you might think about PMing TedB or drifto...they both use the Spec twin discs (they are both right in Specs backyard...drifto has good repoire with them as he has used them in some customer's custome builds)...just a thought.

 

The QM TOB came with the clutch, I should have clarified that. I'm actually gonna call SPEC tomorrow and make sure it came with the correct TOB. Great idea about contacting TedB or Drifto, I'll give that a shot.