How often should u do oil change for the TRE rebuild diff if u do DD the most and track some times?

 

Personally, I pamper the hell out of my track car so I change all of them (transmission, transfer case and rear differential) every two oil changes (10,000 miles.)


So, the diff weighed in at a hefty 46 lbs. Shipping with USPS Parcel Post and $650 insurance cost me $58.05 from California to Kalamazoo, MI.

So take that for what it's worth.

 

How much is the shipping?$650 for only the shipping?no right.

 

What? No dude, I paid extra for insurance. $650 dollars worth of insurance. Shipping was $58.

 

Damn I'm getting excited for my diff to show up, this Sunday I was .370 sec off top PAX against all national trophy winner if not multiple time national champions including Tom Katzian, Jerry Jenkins (Mr E-Stock), and Jim Daniels. If the diff even makes a 1/4 sec difference I'll be right there in the running with these guys.

I'm still not fully prepped by any means, I still have the diff, upgrading from 10/12k to 12/16k springs and moving to 275-295 Hoosiers from 245 z214 c71s. Also I only run in the 330hp range so I can stay flat footed through corners without overwhelming my smallish 245 tires. This year is continually getting more and more exciting.

 

Yeah,that's what I though.thx man.

 

TRE recommends changing tcase and rear diff fluids every 5k miles. In our autox car we change fluids about every 50 miles (3 months). I'd hardly consider every 10k "pampering" a track car.

 

10k was originally based off of the 15k recommended by Mitsubishi under 'adverse conditions / wear'.

Good to know, I'll start changing all fluids at my oil intervals.

 

well 10k is not bad for easy (stock type power levels) street miles, but serious consideration should be given to changing the fluid after every track day. if you make decent power and use it often (lead foot), 5k would be a better idea.

 

And if you use the Redline NS fluid I would change it even more often.

 

Thx for all the input guys.

 

Got my diff installed Saturday, first drive on the street was instantly noticeable. I set the rear bar on full soft to help keep the inside rear loaded more and putting down more power and immediately found the rear end to be more active. Normally through a corner it wasn't hard to get that inside rear wheel spin while the car flops over on the front outside corner but now the back end sits nice with a much greater slip angle. Not necessarily slipping but just coming around.

Unfortunately Im changing to many parts to get a real feel for just the TRE Diffs difference at an autocross, but I gotta get the parts installed and dialed in at the next even before the Packwood national tour and pro-solo.

 

Here's some info if you want to perform this yourself. Following the service manual, will double the friction surface.
You'll want to have a gear/bearing puller, torque wrench, metric sockets, specified thread locking compound, sealant for the diff cover, having a dial indicator to check backlash while you're in there wouldn't hurt either.


When you open the diff and clean everything off, you'll be able to see if the ring and pinion are meshing properly by the wear marks on the teeth, the marks should be very close to center. If this is good (as well as backlash), all you need to do is disassemble, reassemble plates in correct order, torque everything down using the specified thread locking compound and seal the diff up again. Don't forget to fill it back up with gear oil.

Tip: Jack up the rear of the car to allow extra LSD fluid to be added w/o it running out of the fill plug.

 

i really have to suggest to those looking to "do it themselves" to just send it to TRE. jon@tre is a total pro when it comes to this kind of thing and he does a lot of little extra things that make the diff come together.. i really dont think its about just stuffing 12 plates into the diff so that it'll fit and work

 

I'm not discounting Team Rip at all. They go over the whole diff, add new plates shot peen, new bearings and also have some nice heavy duty side cover options, rear cover with sight glass and filler relocated.

You're making it should like by following the service manual to install the plates correctly you're just guessing and blindly slapping it back together.