I'm very interested in your results with the entire assembly. The nice thing about doing it this way is you can use the larger filter sock included in the universal install kit rather than the standard GSS342 / 400-847 filter sock that is significantly smaller.

 

I am wondering, If you are supporting the pump with that clamp, is the stress fine with being spead out on such a small area(right under the worm drive housing). If anything, you could make a thin ring that fits around the fuel pump and has a protruding lobe to rest on as much of the plastic as possible so then the clamp can rest on it to spread the force out more? Idk, just firing out my thoughts....

 

Thanks MAP for the great pictures!

 

The clamp for sure can cause serious issues with flow, you have to be careful where it is placed and how tight it is.

 

If that was going in my evo I would sleep a lot better with a billet aluminum lower cap to hold it in from the bottom? maybe i should drop everything and work on this too

if you had to rely on the clamp only seems like if you cut a couple vertical "slits" in the plastic tube, near where the hose clamp is it might give a little better grip on the pump without distorting the plastic? or maybe you could use a small murray clamp for more grip and less distortion than a wormgear clamp...need to make sure its not messing anything else up at the top seal by distorting the cage.. would be scary if your fuel pump shot out backwards at 80+psi however

 

So you guys are simply using the hose clam to hold the pump into the housing then, right? So its not sliding down. The hose clamp is basically replacing the factory cup that holds the pump in the housing from the bottom?

I just wanna make sure I am seeing it correct lol.

 

this is what i was trying to describe as a "vertical slit" basically making it like a bicycle's seatpost or stem, but only a short distance (not as long as my crappy cellphone pic)

 

The clamp is on the pump itself sir not the plastic, as of yet anyways lol.

 

Theres no way to retain the factory retainer at the bottom? I know the first write up on this pump says its possible. I would surely trust Map or DB first though.

Im def. not tryin to say David Buschur is wrong, but how is the clamp gonna hurt the flow, possibly? School me lol.

 

If you put the clamp in the wrong spot on that pump or tighten it too much the pump is literally STOP pumping fuel, believe me! The center of the pump is the worst place to put the clamp, it has the most effect on the pump. I see what Chris did in the pic by placing it just on the pump so the pump can't slide down but if it's TIGHT and towards the center of the pump there is a chance the pump will not flow at all. I had my doubts on the first write up on this pump being installed as to height, which can be found here Chris has it looking how I thought it would need to be to go in there, seat in the feed and fit in the tank. Our pumps didn't show up for some reason....

 

Hmm, ok, I get ya. So the goal is, to be able to hold the pump there some way without too much(better if none) pressure squeezing on the pump itself.

I see a previous post about someone wanting to make a billet retainer to hold it from the bottom. Seems that would really put the pump to tall to fit in the tank, I would imagine?

I would def jump to one of your double pumpers DB. It just seems like so much overkill for my setup still, with my stock block being the limiting factor for not making tons of power and "really" needing the double pump lol.

 

I know its not clamped to the plastic, but is it resting on the plastic?

 

When we all got our EVO's we thought how fast they were, then thought, man this car would be better with Stage 1 on it..........felt fast for a week. Then went to Stage 2, 3 and 4 with a single pump and 680 cc injectors. Cars ran high 11's.....fast for a another week.

Now we have guys who are happy with their 10.90's and can get buy on a single pump and XXXX injectors............in another year they will be unhappy with the speeds they are at and eventually need a double pumper anyway, that's how the industry works. I will gladly sell a single pump that works to those guys now and then upgrade them again later to the double pumper.

Anyone who thinks I'm not for a good single pump option, read the above....haha The other option is ONE mod, ONE time that works until the end.

 

^^ What he said. My first mod to my car was rods/pistons. Why? It's the weakest point in the motor (rods).

People have said this time and time again...do it once, do it right. We can make A LOT of parts fit in/on our cars...which parts work best? Why buy 1450's but buy a single pump? You buy 1450's so you don't have to worry about running out of fuel on 1000's and buying injector set after set after set...ask anyone with experience with their car. I had 880's, 1200's, then just went to 2150's because I know no matter what I'm set. Do it once, do it right. Maybe the first person to "make it fit" can post up some more specifics about how they got the stock retainer to hook up. I'm not sure about you guys but having a worm clamp support my fuel pump to save two hundred dollars doesn't seem ideal.

Everyone can dispute everything DB says all they want until they're blue in the face but the facts speak for themselves, he sells and builds parts that work. He was one of the first, he's one if not the best, he knows his stuff and there's a reason the best shops in the world sell his parts...not because he's the only provider of them, but because he's one of the best.

 

I hear ya. I know how that is, just for now, tryin to keep the stock block together. Im basically looking for high 400whp low 400 tq on the green, stock block on e85. I feel some fic1450s and this pump(if it ends up working) will do the trick.

One reason I dont go so big at first, is I have no clue if Ill even have may car in 6 months lol. I dont keep cars too long. I jump back and forth from car to car.