Evodan new personal best 10.37 @ 137 MPH
Dan, sorry about the troubles man, it sounds like the clutch isn't bled completely. Sometimes the QM push bearing can be a b1tch to bleed. The best method I have used to bleed the push bearing is the crack open the bleeder a little bit, put a cup or pan underneath the bleeder and let it gravity bleed for about 15-20 minutes (keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir and keep it full)
After that, close the bleeder and pump the clutch about 10 times, then open the bleeder once again and with your hand push the clutch pedal very slowly to the floor, once it reaches the floor, leave the pedal there and go back and close the bleeder. Then pull the clutch pedal back up and pump it a few more times. Then go drive it and see if it helped or not. If not then you might have to adjust the pedal under the dash, very simple to do. There are some threads on here explaining how to adjust the pedal.
After that, close the bleeder and pump the clutch about 10 times, then open the bleeder once again and with your hand push the clutch pedal very slowly to the floor, once it reaches the floor, leave the pedal there and go back and close the bleeder. Then pull the clutch pedal back up and pump it a few more times. Then go drive it and see if it helped or not. If not then you might have to adjust the pedal under the dash, very simple to do. There are some threads on here explaining how to adjust the pedal.
Dan, sorry about the troubles man, it sounds like the clutch isn't bled completely. Sometimes the QM push bearing can be a b1tch to bleed. The best method I have used to bleed the push bearing is the crack open the bleeder a little bit, put a cup or pan underneath the bleeder and let it gravity bleed for about 15-20 minutes (keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir and keep it full)
After that, close the bleeder and pump the clutch about 10 times, then open the bleeder once again and with your hand push the clutch pedal very slowly to the floor, once it reaches the floor, leave the pedal there and go back and close the bleeder. Then pull the clutch pedal back up and pump it a few more times. Then go drive it and see if it helped or not. If not then you might have to adjust the pedal under the dash, very simple to do. There are some threads on here explaining how to adjust the pedal.
After that, close the bleeder and pump the clutch about 10 times, then open the bleeder once again and with your hand push the clutch pedal very slowly to the floor, once it reaches the floor, leave the pedal there and go back and close the bleeder. Then pull the clutch pedal back up and pump it a few more times. Then go drive it and see if it helped or not. If not then you might have to adjust the pedal under the dash, very simple to do. There are some threads on here explaining how to adjust the pedal.
Ok. I did 10.41 @ 141.53 witty a 1.71 60 foot. I don't understand what I am doing wrong. I'm done for the night. I made like 8 passes
Last edited by EvoDan2004; Aug 27, 2010 at 09:36 PM.
thanks sean.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T6HJLlTeoXs
here is my 10.41 @ 141.53 + a lame burn out. as i watch this vid VS my 10.37 @ 137 i seem to be shifting just fine. something else has to be holding the E/T back but yet gaining more MPH. i dont understand. ''you can here i hit rev limiter at the end of the track. passing the line at 9000 rpm. but IMO it is not what held me back VS my 10.37 on pump.
here is my 10.5 @ 140.32 without hitting the rev limiter
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LyYkL7u_Ii4
what am i doing wrong. anyone?
i made 8 passes.
i know im working on that. but i dont think that is my issue. 1.68 to 1.71 does not add up to .04 slower yet 4 mph faster. i figure it should be going 10.200 at least.
maybe im suborn or just blind. but how does .04 60 foot difference make for a .30 or better E/T that should have happened? 141s i expected a 10.2 at least. i was up till 445AM last night thinking about it. i couldnt sleep. haha
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post your full time slip on the old best vs your current runs, maybe it's in the 1/8th mile signaling a slow shift or shift point difference that's hurting the e.t there which cannot be made up or improved in the 1/4 with the same power as before.
Ok I will post it up when I get home. But by watching the Vids it seems I'm shifting well. Ill post up. Good idea. That will show on paper vs vid


