Dan, have you happened to disconnect the end links on the rear sway bar yet while at the track? It would be fairly easy to do at the track, 5 min job just to disconnect the end links on the sway bar. Could help with your 60ft's. I know my car made a pretty noticeable difference on the street when testing it, although I have yet to try it at the track. Seems the car likes to squat a littler harder with it disconnected and hook a bit better. I tried it back to back with and without it hooked up.
You need to really start messing around with tire pressure. Your MPH is there for a 9sec pass, just need to dial in that 60ft and 330ft and a 9sec pass will be there waiting for you!
Does the HKS piggy back have a feature for NLTS? I would look into that too. My car shifts like crap if I try to lift shift. Most all the cars I have done NLTS on shift way better for some reason. My car shifts awesome with NLTS on.

Good luck man!

 

Sounds good...let me know next time you are heading to Island...

 

Yes the fcon has features for NLTS but its not set up. I'm actually kinda scared to do it do to the fact the last time I did it the car lost 4th gear. Granted this was when It was stock back in 2007 with 63k On it and stock ecu.

I will consider the sway bar trick. I'm up for trying anything because I can not get this car off the line quickly. Here and there ill hit sub 1.6 to 1.59 but 99% of the time I'm in the 1.7s . I don't know maybe its suspension too. Maybe I'm to fast off the clutch or too slow I have no clue. I just keep blowing the tires loose. I wish I knew this stuff better then I do now but I'm learning as I go. I just don't seem to be learning a damn thing about launching.

 

oct 9/10 at etown would be a great time to race!!

 

Its on my calendar. Might be able to make it.

 

good to hear - would be nice for you to get some practice on the pro tree

 

we use pro tree on friday nights. every time i try to hit the green light i either feel like im sitting there for 20 seconds or when i blink the **** was green already. i dont know maybe the guy sets it at different times but man that messes me all up

 

haha no big deal dan it comes with practice over time... just remember when you see lots of lights -> GO!!!

 

and yet again i just burnt up another QM clutch. this one only had 3/4 passes on it and 1500 miles. my old one was 40+ passes and 5000/5500 miles. i dont know what the hell is happening that i lost this clutch so soon. i am going to call QM for some help on monday. im hoping they will do something. otherwise i dont know what ill be doing. i cant afford a 4k clutch on a car i drive on the street.

 

Hey Dan sorry to hear about your issues with your new QM in there.

I saw your other posts as well in the other thread.

Have you spoken to anyone at QM yet about it?

I too just recently re-freshed my QM with new disks, pp, and floater.

I didn't run a clutch pedal stop but will be looking into putting one soon as well even though they said it wasn't needed maybe that's why my pp and floater showed signs of uneven wear but the disks showed plenty of life???

I've only put about 100 miles on mine and haven't really gotten into full WOT pulls so hopefully i don't have bad luck like you are having

Also i did not machine the hubs like you and Jake have as i figure the clutch will come out again in a year or so for a visual inspection once again anyway and i don't put many miles on my Evo since i have a DD.

I'm curious to hear what QM has to say about the ordeal.......

 

sup pat. i spoke to QM. they said send the clutch in. that was it. and i do not have time to send it in for them to tell me SOL. i ordered a tilton peddle stop today. and am off to the shop to have the hub machined. i really hope this is my issue. if not then im selling this car and buying a mongoose 12 speed bike to ride around in. HAHAH.

i bought new floater plates and disks last time. the PP and flywheel where good. so i reused them. now that its slipping i wonder if i should add new floater plates again or just reuse the ones that i just got.

i will snap a pic when i get home from the shop.

 

I hear ya!

Maybe i should make note of what they consider the pp and what they consider the floater.

Under the clutch cover (has fingers on it) there is the first plate which they call the (PP) and then the 1st disc and then what they call the (FP) and then the 2nd disc and then the (FW).

It's just semantics but thought i'd clear that up for anyone else reading

So again i ended up using the same cover and resurfaced the QM (FW) as minimal as possible while maintaining the .100" step.

I did not machine the hubs down though.

You can always straight edge the PP and FP to check for un-even wear before you throw them all back together.

How did you FW look when you had things apart?

 

i just got back from the machine shop. shaved .060 off the disk. my original floater plate you can feel a nice grove in it from where the disks where touching it. the new ones i did not get out of the car yet.

the flywheel i was told was good. they just cleaned it up some. but it was not cut or anything. once i get the other 2 disks out i will have that one machined too. i hope between the 2 i can get the rest of the year out of it. and then while the car is down in the winter i will be buying a new clutch.

as for the rest of what you said HAHAH i have no idea. but sure. ill put the fp on the fw next to the PP. hahah.

 

on race gas this thing us gonna be a monster. Good 60ft time as well.