evodan2004's attempt at 9s take 1... failed
I went 12.3 @ 113 again with a worse 60 ft on both of my runs. The car is making 10~15 more whp since last sunday (according to Virtual Dyno), but the heat was real bad. I made one pass then let the motor cool down and ran again, but the temp jumped like crazy both passes so I called it quits. I also have to set my NLTS a little better as i'm still getting a thud when shifting.
I wouldn't be surprised if the car still has the original coolant in it since the car was new. I'm going to premix my own as well as add two bottles of water wetter and replace the the thermostat. That should help. But, I won't be going back to the track until the weather cools down. Its no point in giving up power due to excessive heat.
Last edited by BigT; Jul 2, 2011 at 08:42 PM.
I went 12.3 @ 113 again with a worse 60 ft on both of my runs. The car is making 10~15 more whp since last sunday (according to Virtual Dyno), but the heat was real bad. I made one pass then let the motor cool down and ran again, but the temp jumped like crazy both passes so I called it quits. I also have to set my NLTS a little better as i'm still getting a thud when shifting.
I went 12.3 @ 113 again with a worse 60 ft on both of my runs. The car is making 10~15 more whp since last sunday (according to Virtual Dyno), but the heat was real bad. I made one pass then let the motor cool down and ran again, but the temp jumped like crazy both passes so I called it quits. I also have to set my NLTS a little better as i'm still getting a thud when shifting.
I wouldn't be surprised if the car still has the original coolant in it since the car was new. I'm going to premix my own as well as add two bottles of water wetter and replace the the thermostat. That should help. But, I won't be going back to the track until the weather cools down. Its no point in giving up power due to excessive heat.
I wouldn't be surprised if the car still has the original coolant in it since the car was new. I'm going to premix my own as well as add two bottles of water wetter and replace the the thermostat. That should help. But, I won't be going back to the track until the weather cools down. Its no point in giving up power due to excessive heat.
Sean
so. while i was waiting for my cam sensor to show up the past 2 days i built my self a nice grounding system. i was talking to Alex at dog box racing and he recommended i add a ground or so. mainly the head to the chassis. so i ordered a few things and got to work. i ended up going a bit over board HAHA. anyways here is what i did. and i am not done yet. i still have 1 or 2 more i will build.
i ordered 4 gauge wire. 4 gauge copper ring terminals coated in tin with 3 different ring sizes. some heat shrink stuff.
1st one i upgraded the stock ground from the intake manifold to the fire wall.
next ground wire i added was from the head to the chassis.
i also grounded the block to the chassis as well. but i cant get a pic of that. i bolted it to the bolt hole the stock intake manifold bracket go's to the block.
here is the 2 added ground wires that i grounded to the same place as the stock battery to the chassis. i also drilled and tapped out the hole and upgraded it to a bigger 8MM bolt.
what i will do next is replace the stock ground wire off the alternator to battery with the same 4 gauge wire.
i hope you guys like it.
i ordered 4 gauge wire. 4 gauge copper ring terminals coated in tin with 3 different ring sizes. some heat shrink stuff.
1st one i upgraded the stock ground from the intake manifold to the fire wall.
next ground wire i added was from the head to the chassis.
i also grounded the block to the chassis as well. but i cant get a pic of that. i bolted it to the bolt hole the stock intake manifold bracket go's to the block.
here is the 2 added ground wires that i grounded to the same place as the stock battery to the chassis. i also drilled and tapped out the hole and upgraded it to a bigger 8MM bolt.
what i will do next is replace the stock ground wire off the alternator to battery with the same 4 gauge wire.
i hope you guys like it.
i called and i said yo. i am a bad motha f%^ka. they said o snap ok you need a stiff spring. its free. ill send it right away.
haha.
i called them up. explained my issue and they said they have a super stiff spring that most turbo diesel guys use for 40+psi. i said i will buy one. she said no worries just give me you address. and that was it.
haha.
i called them up. explained my issue and they said they have a super stiff spring that most turbo diesel guys use for 40+psi. i said i will buy one. she said no worries just give me you address. and that was it.
figured i'd tell ya LOL
hope fully this will help with the taper :/
If it is not one thing its another. sigh
update.
the new MBC spring is in. i could not test it out because the car broke last saturday. or was it the saturday before that.............. i dont remember. whatever. it was a simple fix. the tensener pulley on the timing belt broke. so i trailered the car to dogbox and had him fix it and change a few things. i put the stock cam gears back on, installed a FPR kit, adjusted the clutch how i wanted it, and Alex went over a few bits to make sure everything was good. i love this guys attention to detail, and how he treats me. i do not think i could find a better team mate with my project and friend.
the past few days i have been having fuel pressure issues. but i got it mostly dialed in. so i thought. more on that later. so i took the car out and started beating on it. on the street its hitting 40psi very very easy. so IMO so far its doing a much better job. ill know more when i hit the track.
about my fuel pressure issue. when Alex set it up it was set to the stock pressure ''43''. when i got home the car was not running to well. braking up and all kinds of crap. fuel pressure was down to 30psi. so i re adjusted it to 43psi. i took the car out. and again. checked it. the fuel pressure then dropped to 38/40psi. so i adjusted it again. i took the car out again. ripped on it and checked it. it was at 43psi. ok great. i went out to dinner and after dinner i figured i would check the fuel pressure before i leave. i started the car and it was at 53psi. ok maybe because its cooled down? i have no clue. so i lowered it to 43/44psi and hit the road. i came home and it was at 43psi. tomorrow i will be doing a bunch more testing/checking and adjusting if need be. but i am worried something is not right. the FPR is setup correctly. but why is it not holding a steady pressure and being very inconsistent????????? anyone?
update.
the new MBC spring is in. i could not test it out because the car broke last saturday. or was it the saturday before that.............. i dont remember. whatever. it was a simple fix. the tensener pulley on the timing belt broke. so i trailered the car to dogbox and had him fix it and change a few things. i put the stock cam gears back on, installed a FPR kit, adjusted the clutch how i wanted it, and Alex went over a few bits to make sure everything was good. i love this guys attention to detail, and how he treats me. i do not think i could find a better team mate with my project and friend.
the past few days i have been having fuel pressure issues. but i got it mostly dialed in. so i thought. more on that later. so i took the car out and started beating on it. on the street its hitting 40psi very very easy. so IMO so far its doing a much better job. ill know more when i hit the track.
about my fuel pressure issue. when Alex set it up it was set to the stock pressure ''43''. when i got home the car was not running to well. braking up and all kinds of crap. fuel pressure was down to 30psi. so i re adjusted it to 43psi. i took the car out. and again. checked it. the fuel pressure then dropped to 38/40psi. so i adjusted it again. i took the car out again. ripped on it and checked it. it was at 43psi. ok great. i went out to dinner and after dinner i figured i would check the fuel pressure before i leave. i started the car and it was at 53psi. ok maybe because its cooled down? i have no clue. so i lowered it to 43/44psi and hit the road. i came home and it was at 43psi. tomorrow i will be doing a bunch more testing/checking and adjusting if need be. but i am worried something is not right. the FPR is setup correctly. but why is it not holding a steady pressure and being very inconsistent????????? anyone?
Fuel pressure inconsistency is related to the fuel pump voltage regulator. I had this problem as well and couldn't stand it. So I rewired the pumps using my own relays and the AEM EMS controls them both.
After the car is cooled down and goes back into cold start enrichment the voltage regulator will kick over full voltage to the pump till it's up to temp, once it's up to temp the pump voltage regulator will drop voltage down to mid 11's to even as low a high to mid 10 volts. Then once you go WOT the regulator will kick over full voltage again.
My problem was that the voltage regulator would wig out sometimes and would not kick over full voltage at WOT at times. That bugged the hell out of me so I just rewired both pumps with my own relays and completely eliminated the pump voltage regulator all together.
After the car is cooled down and goes back into cold start enrichment the voltage regulator will kick over full voltage to the pump till it's up to temp, once it's up to temp the pump voltage regulator will drop voltage down to mid 11's to even as low a high to mid 10 volts. Then once you go WOT the regulator will kick over full voltage again.
My problem was that the voltage regulator would wig out sometimes and would not kick over full voltage at WOT at times. That bugged the hell out of me so I just rewired both pumps with my own relays and completely eliminated the pump voltage regulator all together.
So what your saying is to upgrade the stock wires from the fuel pump to the ECU? what gauge wire is stock and what should I upgrade too.
Do I upgrade the power wire on the double pumper or leave that wire alone.
Do I upgrade the power wire on the double pumper or leave that wire alone.
Fuel pressure inconsistency is related to the fuel pump voltage regulator. I had this problem as well and couldn't stand it. So I rewired the pumps using my own relays and the AEM EMS controls them both.
After the car is cooled down and goes back into cold start enrichment the voltage regulator will kick over full voltage to the pump till it's up to temp, once it's up to temp the pump voltage regulator will drop voltage down to mid 11's to even as low a high to mid 10 volts. Then once you go WOT the regulator will kick over full voltage again.
My problem was that the voltage regulator would wig out sometimes and would not kick over full voltage at WOT at times. That bugged the hell out of me so I just rewired both pumps with my own relays and completely eliminated the pump voltage regulator all together.
After the car is cooled down and goes back into cold start enrichment the voltage regulator will kick over full voltage to the pump till it's up to temp, once it's up to temp the pump voltage regulator will drop voltage down to mid 11's to even as low a high to mid 10 volts. Then once you go WOT the regulator will kick over full voltage again.
My problem was that the voltage regulator would wig out sometimes and would not kick over full voltage at WOT at times. That bugged the hell out of me so I just rewired both pumps with my own relays and completely eliminated the pump voltage regulator all together.
The stock power wire that powers up your primary pump, use that wire to activate a relay. Run a 10 gauge wire from the battery to the relay with a inline fuse, then 10 gauge wire from the relay to the pump.
Setting it up this way your ignition when starting the car will still control the pump, but since you will be feeding the pump directly from the relay/battery you will get a consistent 14v while running the car.