Hmm Alcohol
Yes the buzzer is a great idea....Theres nothing like going 165mph on a road course and at the same time looking to see when the little red light comes on. The buzzer is a great idea!!!
Okay, here's some simple math...
In a 20 minute session I burn about 10 gallons of fuel. For you calculator challenged that's about a half a gallon a minute on average or ~1.9 liters. If I was spraying 15% water by volume then I'd need ~284cc per minute. Multiply that by 20 minutes and you get about 5.6 liters of water required. I'm pretty sure the IC reservoir won't hold that much.
In a 20 minute session I burn about 10 gallons of fuel. For you calculator challenged that's about a half a gallon a minute on average or ~1.9 liters. If I was spraying 15% water by volume then I'd need ~284cc per minute. Multiply that by 20 minutes and you get about 5.6 liters of water required. I'm pretty sure the IC reservoir won't hold that much.
Originally Posted by Doc
If you could hook up a buzzer or something that would beep when the low warning light came on that would help alot......I think the light comes on with 1/3rd of the alcky left in the tank....Seems like that would be enough to get to the pits/side of the road with.....Especially if you slowed down.....
LOL, how about an electric shocker? 
some how race car drivers dont have this problem of not seeing a warning light. If a piece of dust gets on my car when i drive i know.
If a frequin light goes on saying refill you **** before your engine blows i'm sure its not something you'll miss...
some how race car drivers dont have this problem of not seeing a warning light. If a piece of dust gets on my car when i drive i know.
If a frequin light goes on saying refill you **** before your engine blows i'm sure its not something you'll miss...
Originally Posted by Evo11V
LOL, how about an electric shocker?
some how race car drivers dont have this problem of not seeing a warning light. If a piece of dust gets on my car when i drive i know. If a frequin light goes on saying refill you **** before your engine blows i'm sure its not something you'll miss...
some how race car drivers dont have this problem of not seeing a warning light. If a piece of dust gets on my car when i drive i know.
If a frequin light goes on saying refill you **** before your engine blows i'm sure its not something you'll miss...
Originally Posted by Evo11V
LOL, how about an electric shocker?
some how race car drivers dont have this problem of not seeing a warning light. If a piece of dust gets on my car when i drive i know. If a frequin light goes on saying refill you **** before your engine blows i'm sure its not something you'll miss...
some how race car drivers dont have this problem of not seeing a warning light. If a piece of dust gets on my car when i drive i know.
If a frequin light goes on saying refill you **** before your engine blows i'm sure its not something you'll miss...Thanks, I'll wire a relay and a boost solenoid to dump the boost to wastegate pressure rather than me having to sweat yet another warning light or buzzer. Cheap insurance.
While the 100 octane is a great idea, you will probably want to turn the boost down to 22psi and record what your highest EGT was if you have a gauge that records peaks. Things get a lot hotter on the track than they do in a nice cool dyno room when you're tuning a car. You're heat soaking your radiator and intercooler, so I think the best option would be to run a pump gas tune and add the alky on top to keep things cool. Nozzles get jammed, pumps overheat and if you're doing this just as a safety net, that's the best way to do it. On the 02 sensors, you can get a Bosch replacement 02 for about 35 bucks, but you have to solder some wires to get it to work.
ONLY 27psi? You're taking a tune that was developed on a dyno or a few gear pulls and trying to make it work with a half hour of constantly trying to lift the head off the block. Turn the boost down to 20, put good 100 octane in, learn the track, then crank it if you think you have it down.
More often than not, the fastest driver has the fastest times, not the fastest car.
ONLY 27psi? You're taking a tune that was developed on a dyno or a few gear pulls and trying to make it work with a half hour of constantly trying to lift the head off the block. Turn the boost down to 20, put good 100 octane in, learn the track, then crank it if you think you have it down.
More often than not, the fastest driver has the fastest times, not the fastest car.
Originally Posted by 4ringturncoat
A few simple things I am going to do for the first track day in April.
1. Run 100oct unleaded so I can have the alky hit later and have a larger margine of error should I runout of alky. I would prefer the 100oct over any leaded b/c our upstream O2 sensor is $250. I am only running 27psi so the motor should be fine for a few seconds on only 100oct.
2. Extend the red and yellow warning lights up to leds placed in the instrument cluster near the tack.
My thought are this: If you a RACING and that last bit of power is really worth it then go for it, but if something should fail beaware that YOU made the choice to run it! I would say until someone goes to the track and can document how much is being used we are all just guessing, and even then you are still guessing b/c the variables of the track style (how ling your into high boost) and how your controller flow rates are set.
Judging from how much I have used I don't think it would last a full 30 mins if your heavy into boost on 94oct, 100oct might be in good shape.
1. Run 100oct unleaded so I can have the alky hit later and have a larger margine of error should I runout of alky. I would prefer the 100oct over any leaded b/c our upstream O2 sensor is $250. I am only running 27psi so the motor should be fine for a few seconds on only 100oct.
2. Extend the red and yellow warning lights up to leds placed in the instrument cluster near the tack.
My thought are this: If you a RACING and that last bit of power is really worth it then go for it, but if something should fail beaware that YOU made the choice to run it! I would say until someone goes to the track and can document how much is being used we are all just guessing, and even then you are still guessing b/c the variables of the track style (how ling your into high boost) and how your controller flow rates are set.
Judging from how much I have used I don't think it would last a full 30 mins if your heavy into boost on 94oct, 100oct might be in good shape.
Once again, comments inserted:
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
I think you made your point a few times and I really do not need your guidance and advice.
I'm not worried about you, I'm worried about the guy that buys your kit and thinks that when he gets a kit and toon from you, that he can run his Evo at a fast track on pump gas without having to worry about running out of juice.
After all, the guy who is working on this kit with me - David Buschur - is hardlty a newbie and the guy who actually designs and builds the kit has been doing it for 10 years on Turbo Buicks without issues.
Not to take anything away from those guys. I have had Buschur parts on my car since before it was fashionable to do so. They work and they work great. I don't doubt the use of this kit on Turbo Buicks, either, but show me one Turbo Buick that uses this kit on a road course on pump gas and doesn't use more than a gallon per half hour.
I want to specifically state this ONE more time - and then I would appreciate it if you would leave my forums as your commentary here is not welcome.
Duly noted and I'm still here. Take it up with KK or Speedlimit, but I've broken no terms of use, just simply stated where you are wrong. If I have any questions about drag racing or ECU reflashing, I'll give you a call. When it comes to using a tuned alcohol injection system on a road course under severe lateral loads for prolonged periods of time, I may not know it all, but I've been doing it for over a year and know what does happen out there. Just trying to help guys out there that may be forced to walk home if they follow your advice.
Finally - the way I tune 90% of the evos on alcohol - they will NOT BLOW up if the alcohol fails. This has been tested.
Yes, it has been tested. But it's been tested on a dyno for a few gear pulls on a nice day, not on a road course for a half hour.
I'm not worried about you, I'm worried about the guy that buys your kit and thinks that when he gets a kit and toon from you, that he can run his Evo at a fast track on pump gas without having to worry about running out of juice.
After all, the guy who is working on this kit with me - David Buschur - is hardlty a newbie and the guy who actually designs and builds the kit has been doing it for 10 years on Turbo Buicks without issues.
Not to take anything away from those guys. I have had Buschur parts on my car since before it was fashionable to do so. They work and they work great. I don't doubt the use of this kit on Turbo Buicks, either, but show me one Turbo Buick that uses this kit on a road course on pump gas and doesn't use more than a gallon per half hour.
I want to specifically state this ONE more time - and then I would appreciate it if you would leave my forums as your commentary here is not welcome.
Duly noted and I'm still here. Take it up with KK or Speedlimit, but I've broken no terms of use, just simply stated where you are wrong. If I have any questions about drag racing or ECU reflashing, I'll give you a call. When it comes to using a tuned alcohol injection system on a road course under severe lateral loads for prolonged periods of time, I may not know it all, but I've been doing it for over a year and know what does happen out there. Just trying to help guys out there that may be forced to walk home if they follow your advice.
Finally - the way I tune 90% of the evos on alcohol - they will NOT BLOW up if the alcohol fails. This has been tested.
Yes, it has been tested. But it's been tested on a dyno for a few gear pulls on a nice day, not on a road course for a half hour.
Originally Posted by 4G63>OOOO
Once again, comments inserted:
Originally Posted by 4G63>OOOO
While the 100 octane is a great idea, you will probably want to turn the boost down to 22psi and record what your highest EGT was if you have a gauge that records peaks. Things get a lot hotter on the track than they do in a nice cool dyno room when you're tuning a car. You're heat soaking your radiator and intercooler, so I think the best option would be to run a pump gas tune and add the alky on top to keep things cool. Nozzles get jammed, pumps overheat and if you're doing this just as a safety net, that's the best way to do it. On the 02 sensors, you can get a Bosch replacement 02 for about 35 bucks, but you have to solder some wires to get it to work.
ONLY 27psi? You're taking a tune that was developed on a dyno or a few gear pulls and trying to make it work with a half hour of constantly trying to lift the head off the block. Turn the boost down to 20, put good 100 octane in, learn the track, then crank it if you think you have it down.
More often than not, the fastest driver has the fastest times, not the fastest car.
ONLY 27psi? You're taking a tune that was developed on a dyno or a few gear pulls and trying to make it work with a half hour of constantly trying to lift the head off the block. Turn the boost down to 20, put good 100 octane in, learn the track, then crank it if you think you have it down.
More often than not, the fastest driver has the fastest times, not the fastest car.
The fact that you have done a few track days does not make you an expert on tuning.
Hmm let me know what pump you use. I heard it is just a normal fuel pump is this correct? If so i could see the methanol causing problems to that pump after a certain amount of time causing failure. Just wanted to know.
Thanx
Chris
Thanx
Chris