Hey David,
I like the quick chart you made but why is their a variance of rpm ranges on the BR500 at 20psi. I do like the fact that the turbo keeps up with the others at lower boost. Thats a huge plus.

 

Sorry I didn't have the full list of the mods at the time.

Mods: 720cc, 255lph pump, sard fuel rail, SX fuel pressure regulator, Full tomei Head package (springs, retainers, cams). 80mm turbo back exhaust, t67, ARC intercooler, custom intercooler piping, water inj, aem EMS, umm I am pretty sure that is about it I may be forgeting a few things. Everything else is stock.

Here is the dyno of 20psi pump gas. Dave the 24psi run was done with the water injection turned on and set to come on at 15psi. With the water inj we were able to run 24 psi with absolutely no knock or detonation. This customer runs the car at track events with the water injection turned on and has had zero issues with detonation.

I am not posting this saying one kit is better than another, I personally like everything about the Buschur kits more so than the ATP, I also feel the Buschur kits give the customer a better bang for the money and have a greater potential.

 

It's all good Tampa, the upper i/c pipe we can actually put a normal hose outlet on so you can still use the forged BOV. We have done a few. You may have to get a short piece of hose to put it all together, we will send one with it to couple it all together. The price without the BOV $225.
The battery kit comes with the battery, aluminum tray, both tie down bolts and the stainless steel top strap. Complete kit.

Thanks,

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Difference is spool up between the two charts is the difference in the two tunes, pump gas vs. race gas.

Glad you cleared up the T67 chart. I knew from the list of parts and the boost levels something wasn't quite right.

Nice power output regardless. Water/alcohol injection is the way to go for a pump gas car. Costs very little to have on the car and allows a lot more power with the safety of race gas. We use it here on Buicks and have been selling more and more kits to the 4g63 guys.

I need to get our chart for the BR500 and 580's posted that we tuned here on the EMS.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

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Here is a dyno graph of the BR440 on pump gas vs. the BR Stage 3 with the stock turbo on pump gas.

These were done with a reasonable amount of boost, this means no more than 21 psi once the boost settled down from the spike. I just won't tune a car at 23-25 psi on pump gas, it is retarded.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

As you can see, the two runs with the blue are the BR440 kit, the two in red are the stock turbo with Stage 3.

You can also note that the spool up on the BR440 is identical to the stock turbo on the dyno with it quickly pulling away from it in both HP and torque.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

WOW - man that 440 kit is the ONE I would recomend for sure

That is a very impressive dyno result with low boost and pump gas !

I am looking forward to tuning a 400 kit on our dyno - AND I am still offering free reflash and dyno time to the first guy who wants to come down!

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the red lines were done with the stock turbo and a buschur flash, while the blue lines were done with a BR440 and an AEM EMS. It has been said in other threads that the EMS can make larger turbos spool up earlier (not sure how though). I am wondering how close the spool up would be if the BR440 was tuned with an AFC or a flash. If it hasn't been done yet, and I don't think it has, an opinion would be fine. Thanks.

 

Wow, finally I can see both turbos side by side on the same dyno. I was never able to see where the BR440 would get me in comparison to where I'm at now with the BR Stg3. I'd love to see a comparision between stock, BR440 and BR500 all tuned using AEM EMS or a flash, measured on the same dyno and ambient conditions.

 

Hopefully I will have all that data as well as a comparsion to the BR 500 vs stage 4 with stock turbo shortly !

 

Because a BR500 is more popular than the BR440, is it possible to see how that fits to the graph on pump gas? I would just need to decide which turbo is going to give me the most comparable spool with the extra ponies to go with it.
Thanks.

David,
I'll be calling you soon to get the battery kit and IC kit.

 

The Br440 looks like it may be the way to go. Nice power with very little lag.

I know everyone wants to make power BUT if your like me I can not afford race gas every time I fill up. So that makes me look for something that makes good power @ 20 psi on pump gas, and good power on race gas when I want it.

QUOTE - > This kit includes everything you need to install the kit on an Evolution equipped with our front mount kit (other intercoolers will require you to provide a lower intercooler pipe solution).

David, Why not make a package deal on the Br440, Br500, and Br550 to include the FMIC kit as your kit requires your design FMIC / or a solution to the intercooler pipe? Just a thought.

 

After talking to David I wouldn't go anywhere else for my parts. They just work, period. If I ever get my car paid off in the next 42 years, I'll definetly buy a BR440 and maybe even spring for the ball-bearing upgrade. Anytime you look at a dyno chart for an aftermarket turbo, take a look at what rpm it makes 200whp. You can make huge numbers on a 2.0L, but it's simple physics, huge numbers have huge lag. I don't think I could stand running a GT35R and having so much lag, sure you get great hp if you launch the car at 5K rpms.

And read my notes (tips for tuning for roadracing stickied in the evo engine section) about running more than 20Psi on pump gas, zero knock means nothing - be careful.

And one more thing I want to add, I would definetly suggest running a cast manifold (pick your manufacturer - I'm picking Buschur). If you drive the car normally and take it to the dragstrip occasionally, you'll "probably" be fine with a tubular header. But, if you run your car at 10/10ths for a half hour plus on a road course you will get your header glowing red, and it will crack after enough time. If you do 10 track events a year, and four sessions per event, that means your heat cycling (expanding and contracting) your manifold 40 times a year. You tell me, how long until it cracks? Granted a thick walled manifold will last longer than a thin, but I don't have enough money, nor am I serious enough, to do regular upkeep on a tubular header to avoid cracking - nor do I have enough money to have a spare. If you don't get your car to 10/10ths for long periods of time and you have the extra money - buy the RnR, AMS, SFP or Full-Race manifold - don't buy a HKS or Greddy.

 

Thanks for your input. What brand of cams and combination of the 264/272 would you go with?

 

Al,

I am very interested in your results. Please post up the BR440 and the BR500 sheets with your Flash once you have them. That is the route I have decided to go and the numbers will tell me which turbo. It is definately a Buschur turbo and your Flash. The question is which ones.

Thanks agian David and AL for all you great work.

-Doug