Starting to tune.. logs and such inside
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Definitely. Try looking at your map on a graphical view. Then look at a factory map. Do the same for fuelling and timing. The factory maps are wondrous to behold and a lesson in smoothness and many other things. The maps posted look like designs for a new third world nation's flag 
Factory knows best unless there is a reason to change it. The two big ones are MAF calibration and injector scaling. Get these right and mapping a MAF based ECU is a pleasure for fuelling - literally it should only take two or three shots at it once you have the cruise areas correct. If there is no wacky induction you'll be amazed how a MAF sensor can really measure airflow to fuel well for cams, turbo, strokers, exhausts.
Factory knows best unless there is a reason to change it. The two big ones are MAF calibration and injector scaling. Get these right and mapping a MAF based ECU is a pleasure for fuelling - literally it should only take two or three shots at it once you have the cruise areas correct. If there is no wacky induction you'll be amazed how a MAF sensor can really measure airflow to fuel well for cams, turbo, strokers, exhausts.
Originally Posted by justchil
Ok so I'm heading home now.. Big thanks to everyone will all the help/suggestions. Keep them coming if you have time. 
Originally Posted by jcsbanks
Personally, I couldn't bear to try to modify a map like this, I'd have to chuck it in the bin!
I'd start with a standard factory map and get the idle and cruise areas on minimal fuel trim adjustments by adjusting the injector scaling. I'd do this with a wideband, knock monitoring and with boost controllers set to give just actuator pressure. I wouldn't even think about boosting it until I'd got all this right.
Then I would move on to map a low boost setting - initially with safe ignition timing I'd get the AFRs correct then sort the timing, but I wouldn't bother too much about it as with sensible induction you should have sensible timing.
Then I would increase the boost to my final level again with safe timing and again get the AFR correct. 11-11.5:1 on full boost on pump fuel should be safe at all RPMs. Then I'd sort the timing.
I'd develop the map as I went along so every direction was silky smooth in terms of progression.
Then I'd go batter hell out of the car on a hot day to make sure it was safe before considering the map finished, or I'd detune it to be sure.
Just my 2p.
I'd start with a standard factory map and get the idle and cruise areas on minimal fuel trim adjustments by adjusting the injector scaling. I'd do this with a wideband, knock monitoring and with boost controllers set to give just actuator pressure. I wouldn't even think about boosting it until I'd got all this right.
Then I would move on to map a low boost setting - initially with safe ignition timing I'd get the AFRs correct then sort the timing, but I wouldn't bother too much about it as with sensible induction you should have sensible timing.
Then I would increase the boost to my final level again with safe timing and again get the AFR correct. 11-11.5:1 on full boost on pump fuel should be safe at all RPMs. Then I'd sort the timing.
I'd develop the map as I went along so every direction was silky smooth in terms of progression.
Then I'd go batter hell out of the car on a hot day to make sure it was safe before considering the map finished, or I'd detune it to be sure.
Just my 2p.
Start from the factory maps, those maps you posted are a mess. Save yourself some headaches.
that 19.6 at 4500 in the low loads is ??????????????????????????????
I bet your fuel trims are all over the place with that map.
Thread Starter
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Well I've got a start here guys thanks to noogles.. I've the idle decent.. I'm too lean tho. Going to turn boost down as low as I can and work on it some more. I'm stilling trying to find a way to teach myself how exactly boost/vac levels compare to load.
Got more changes to go test out
Only thing that scares me is flashing the ecu so many times :\
Got more changes to go test out
Only thing that scares me is flashing the ecu so many times :\
Last edited by justchil; Jun 23, 2006 at 03:01 PM. Reason: it's noogles not noodles :)
ive flashed my ecu about 200 times now and it's still perfect.
like i said send me your log and i'll take a look at it. we might just have to add a point or two of fuel,
how were your EGT's?
don't turn the boost down you should tune the car at the boost your going to drive it at or else it'll be off when you turn it up.
like i said send me your log and i'll take a look at it. we might just have to add a point or two of fuel,
how were your EGT's?
don't turn the boost down you should tune the car at the boost your going to drive it at or else it'll be off when you turn it up.
Thread Starter
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Well it was too lean to go to far with it... The car isnt drive well enough part throttle/idle to really go to far just yet..
I'm taking a break for a few.. starting to get dizzy from all the fumes!
I'm taking a break for a few.. starting to get dizzy from all the fumes!
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Did you notice that my peak air flow hz was exactly 1603.95 serveral times? Same in other logs. I'll get a better evoscan log soon.. It kept crapping out on me as I was driving around today but i think I've got it fixed.
Car pulls smooth and hard.. way better than before. I'm going to try to dyno again @ BR July 7th. Hopefully I can get two hours of time so I can swap gas/maps and get some good data on my car
One thing on the timing. Do you think tapering the idle advance might help idle out some?
My "base" flash increases with load.
the example:
Car pulls smooth and hard.. way better than before. I'm going to try to dyno again @ BR July 7th. Hopefully I can get two hours of time so I can swap gas/maps and get some good data on my car
One thing on the timing. Do you think tapering the idle advance might help idle out some?
My "base" flash increases with load.
the example:
Originally Posted by justchil
Did you notice that my peak air flow hz was exactly 1603.95 serveral times? Same in other logs. I'll get a better evoscan log soon.. It kept crapping out on me as I was driving around today but i think I've got it fixed.
Car pulls smooth and hard.. way better than before. I'm going to try to dyno again @ BR July 7th. Hopefully I can get two hours of time so I can swap gas/maps and get some good data on my car
One thing on the timing. Do you think tapering the idle advance might help idle out some?
My "base" flash increases with load.
the example:
Car pulls smooth and hard.. way better than before. I'm going to try to dyno again @ BR July 7th. Hopefully I can get two hours of time so I can swap gas/maps and get some good data on my car
One thing on the timing. Do you think tapering the idle advance might help idle out some?
My "base" flash increases with load.
the example:
Thread Starter
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From: Charleston, WV
Roger that.
One thing I've thought off.. I currently don't have the honeycomb in my MAF. Mine was destroyed and the one I bought.. well the guy didnt bother to tell me it was missing.
One thing I've thought off.. I currently don't have the honeycomb in my MAF. Mine was destroyed and the one I bought.. well the guy didnt bother to tell me it was missing.