Nothing found.

 

look at daniels post...I am not the only one

"Max ignition retard limit is set at 255"

I said before I am no expert. There are many more gentlemen more knowledgable than me.

 

guys,i have jdm evo 7 with stock ALS hardware,i edited the tables from the thread here in my tephra 90550001 rom and added negative timing,raised the timing retard limit to 213-255,i didnt get either pops or bangs from state rev limiter or ALS during runs anybody can help ?
my sas comes stock in the car too.my stock rom is 98640014.

 

I'm using a VII's ecu in my V and i tried many settings but no matter what i do, no pops, no bangs, no stat rev limiter.
Saturday, during a track day the als and stat rev limiter activates on the first launch without any mod

 

same thing with my evo 8 2003 USDM running 94170015. I used the code posted here earlier and set the limit to 255 and nothing changed. I'm still getting only -10. No bangs and no flames :-( I also set the fuel map to give me around 11.5 AFR in that area.

 

And does any one have the xml addresses for ALS for 94170015. and does the ROM even have the code for ALS?

 

I was told setting the retard limit to 235 on the 90550001 will allow a max retard of -20

.....still haven't tried it yet though (currently running 255, with a logged -10)

 

with 90550001 timing retard limit set to 255 or any other setting you will get -10 no more , BarryC posted somewhere here a good while ago that Bez found that there was some other routine stopping it goin below -10 , seems no one has found it as yet



here

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...ard-limit.html

 

so anyway we can add more fuel we can give air with the sas controll or with throttle kicker but yet no more ignition retard than -10 ? Yeah without ignition retard never have real brutal hard ALS ( 0.3- 0.7 bar boost @idle ) like in the rally cars which is kick you in the seats at everytime you step on the throttle

it is als : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2cC6...eature=related

nice idle :P http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnAOqzX7WOU

 

Just an idea.. if the problem is we cannot retard enough the igniton with ecuflash, can we do it with a piggyback ecu ? like with an emanage, or xede ? only change the ignition value in the piggyback ecu from 0-30 load and 2500-7000rpm with -30 and keep all other value and maps 0 will work it ?

 

I believe you can use some GIZZMO ELECTRONICS launch interface, whick has retard on gear change option

 

This is what I found that mrfred wrote in the Ignition Retard Limit Thread:

"...it appears that in the newer ROMs, there are two ignition retard limit tables that are used for two different operating conditions. Not sure yet on what conditions these are, but here are the two tables for the 8859XX15 and the 9653XX06. They may both need to be set more neg for ignition to retard further under all conditions. Note that the max possible neg value is about -28 deg. Should be easy for people running newer JDM, EDM, and ADM ROMs to find the additional table by comparing the offset between the two addresses.

8859XX15:

<scaling name="IgnTimingECUa" units="deg" toexpr="61-x*90/256" frexpr="(61-x)*256/90" format="%.1f" min="-30" max="50" inc="1" storagetype="uint16" endian="big"/>
<table name="Ignition Retard Limit #1" category="Timing" address="205e" type="1D" level="1" scaling="IgnTimingECUa"/>
<table name="Ignition Retard Limit #2" category="Timing" address="133e" type="1D" level="1" scaling="IgnTimingECUa"/>

9653XX06:

<scaling name="IgnTimingECUa" units="deg" toexpr="61-x*90/256" frexpr="(61-x)*256/90" format="%.1f" min="-30" max="50" inc="1" storagetype="uint16" endian="big"/>
<table name="Ignition Retard Limit #1" category="Timing" address="2438" type="1D" level="1" scaling="IgnTimingECUa"/>
<table name="Ignition Retard Limit #2" category="Timing" address="173e" type="1D" level="1" scaling="IgnTimingECUa"/>

88570008-88570014, 88580013-88580015, 88840016, 88900006

<scaling name="IgnTimingECUa" units="deg" toexpr="61-x*90/256" frexpr="(61-x)*256/90" format="%.1f" min="-30" max="50" inc="1" storagetype="uint16" endian="big"/>
<table name="Ignition Retard Limit #1" category="Timing" address="2038" type="1D" level="1" scaling="IgnTimingECUa"/>
<table name="Ignition Retard Limit #2" category="Timing" address="133e" type="1D" level="1" scaling="IgnTimingECUa"/>


9417XXXX has only one ignition retard limit table:

<scaling name="IgnTimingECUa" units="deg" toexpr="61-x*90/256" frexpr="(61-x)*256/90" format="%.1f" min="-30" max="50" inc="1" storagetype="uint16" endian="big"/>
<table name="Ignition Retard Limit #2" category="Timing" address="173e" type="1D" level="1" scaling="IgnTimingECUa"/>

 

With the stock ecu + throttle kicker can we make idle as a standalone ecu which operates fuel cut to make idle ? It Sound like this : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnAOqzX7WOU

With out any fuel cut or compensation with a throttle kicker the engine rev up so high at idle, but with a Motec Pectel... standalone ecu has a table to make fuel cut to avoid it .

 

So I have been thinking about this again, the ECU side is easy, the thing was hardware of some form or no go right?

So we use a Ford throttle kicker from I think anything that had EEC engine control like this-

http://www.tedfelix.com/1984Topaz/tks.htm

Switch and relay for control, either adjust the main map or wire the electric side to the ALS pin as outlined earlier in this thread. We'll need to add a solenoid to the vacuum side as well I believe to make sure that you can "lock" that side open then add the electrical or vise versa. From what I have read we only need between 12 and 20* of additional TPS for airflow.

ideas?

 

I just ran a wire from the SAS pin at the Ecu directly to the stock SAS sensor.

If the ECU portion is working*

Technically, you could wire/pin something from the stock ecu to a different sensor (vacuum). As when you lift throttle, it sends a very simple signal to the valve (via SAS sensor) to open.

For the secondary air source, would you use the "stock" piping? If so you need something to actuate the secondary air valve...

I would highly recommend the stock parts, unless you want to do something one off, then all the more power to you.