PATCH: NLTS + Valet + KnockCEL
tephra, I'm really ashamed at the community that you have 176 downloads and only a 'handful' of people who have donated including myself.
If it were me, and it's not, so its just an opinion...I'd do this on an individual basis through email. It may take you more time but at least you'll get a little something for it.
Now I know all the "keep it free for the community dude" hippies will come flying out after my comments but seriously people. You can't demand that unless you have dedicated some time to actually further something voluntarily.
A ton of people use Evoscan and no one *****es about his fee, rightfully so. It's a small amount of money for an extremely useful tool. I put tephra's patch into that same category!
If it were me, and it's not, so its just an opinion...I'd do this on an individual basis through email. It may take you more time but at least you'll get a little something for it.
Now I know all the "keep it free for the community dude" hippies will come flying out after my comments but seriously people. You can't demand that unless you have dedicated some time to actually further something voluntarily.
A ton of people use Evoscan and no one *****es about his fee, rightfully so. It's a small amount of money for an extremely useful tool. I put tephra's patch into that same category!
Okay, afterbanging my head around...................
Just because I had had an old version of ECUflash from a long time ago it was causing me issues.
I had to uninstall the old ECUflash, *BUT* there was still a few leftover files I had to physically delete.
Now it works... I think I'm going to have to go home and delete it all out of my laptop.
<crossing my fingers for later>
Thanks Russ (Cossie)
Just because I had had an old version of ECUflash from a long time ago it was causing me issues.
I had to uninstall the old ECUflash, *BUT* there was still a few leftover files I had to physically delete.
Now it works... I think I'm going to have to go home and delete it all out of my laptop.
<crossing my fingers for later>
Thanks Russ (Cossie)
Tephra- I know you were thinking of using a spring on the clutch switch so that its not so sensitive. Is this so that after you shift you don't have the problem of the limiter kicking in again if you accidentally have your foot touch the clutch?
I was thinking to eliminate this problem what if you used a timer so that once the NLTS limiter has been activated and then deactivated (one full shift) you don't allow the NLTS limiter again for a half second after. That would make it so that if after a shift your foot still touches the clutch switch it wont activate the limiter again.
I was thinking to eliminate this problem what if you used a timer so that once the NLTS limiter has been activated and then deactivated (one full shift) you don't allow the NLTS limiter again for a half second after. That would make it so that if after a shift your foot still touches the clutch switch it wont activate the limiter again.
I am finding that I shift fast enough with whats left of my 6 speed that 1000 is still too much. I have it down to 800 and it feels pretty good. Takes some getting used to hearing nothing with the throttle WOT. I have logged that the boost drop is all relative to the speed of the shift and the amount of manifold pressure to begin with. I ninja shift and am dropping from 26psi to about 14 or so between shifts.
That switch opens and closes with just a small amt of travel just a half turn on the pedal adjustment can send the switch out of it's operating window. Thats why theres about 10 threads worth of adjustment on it.
Take a look, even though this may make your neck stiff the next day, with clutch as is, the switch should be almost fully depressed. Adjusting it requires removing of the connector BTW.
When I changed my clutch and adjusted the engage/disengage correctly with the pedal (2" off floor always - TRE). The pedal spring was pushed outside it's OEM range of tension so the pedal would rest about 3mm short of it's travel - the switch was inoperative. I added anaddition spring to the system for preload and everything works right
Take a look, even though this may make your neck stiff the next day, with clutch as is, the switch should be almost fully depressed. Adjusting it requires removing of the connector BTW.
When I changed my clutch and adjusted the engage/disengage correctly with the pedal (2" off floor always - TRE). The pedal spring was pushed outside it's OEM range of tension so the pedal would rest about 3mm short of it's travel - the switch was inoperative. I added anaddition spring to the system for preload and everything works right
I am finding that I shift fast enough with whats left of my 6 speed that 1000 is still too much. I have it down to 800 and it feels pretty good. Takes some getting used to hearing nothing with the throttle WOT. I have logged that the boost drop is all relative to the speed of the shift and the amount of manifold pressure to begin with. I ninja shift and am dropping from 26psi to about 14 or so between shifts.
I was thinking to eliminate this problem what if you used a timer so that once the NLTS limiter has been activated and then deactivated (one full shift) you don't allow the NLTS limiter again for a half second after. That would make it so that if after a shift your foot still touches the clutch switch it wont activate the limiter again.
Also, for you guys stating that a setting of 1000 or 1500 is too much, you don't have to change it to a lower setting. Let me try to explain:
If you are shifting fast enough to have your RPMs drop, say 500 RPM, then whether you have your setting at 2000, 1500, 1000, it won't matter. That RPM drop is just what the limiter will be set to, in case YOU DO REACH IT. If you shift faster than the RPMs fall, then there is no need to change your RPM drop to a lower number. You should just leave your RPM drop at what the next gear RPM will come in at. So, if you shift fast enough, the RPMs will juse drop for the duration of your shift. If you do happen to shift slow enough, the limiter will kick in and have the PRMs hovering at the RPM that your next gear wants. I hope I explained that well enough to make sense.
Eric
Eric, that makes perfect sense and that how I had orginally set it up. The average gear spread for the 6 speed is like 1900 or so, not counting 1-2. It just didnt seem to work as well, though I do understand your point.




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