Sorry if this has been asked before, but are you still on the stock turbo?

l8r)

 

wow alot of information. Thanks alot

 

yes, stock.

 

yes, same gear

 

- Ok, so in general, should I be taking away fuel or adding timing advance until i start to see some knock?

 

You want to set your fuel curve first, then start adjusting the timing until the onset of knock. For a daily driver, I will find my knock limit throughout the powerband and then lower it by 1* or 2*(user preference) to account for temperature and baro changes. Also to combat against the possibility of a bad tank of gas. Thats just my "safety net"' though.

 

Thats pretty much along what I was thinking. I am just used to the afc-2

 

well my customer did some races with the car then he sold it and at the new owner after 2 days a piston broke. I think he used 95RON fuel and the ecu was set on 100RON, also bad oil and killer drivers, even the exhaust support was ripped off from hard acceleration and drifts.
Now the new owner brought the car to us to fix it (at his own expense), and he wants to make it even faster, but I really don't know how far to push it, because I don't want something bad to happen again.

 

finished reading the whole thread, lot of info I was looking for, I think I will try now to do some logging and see if we can change a few things. THANKS

 

Well I just read the whole write up and it was very well done. That is going to help me alot when I go to tune my car. It all made sense to me cause I've helped tune my friends cars but with other programs (ecu+ and DSMLink). But thanks alot for taking the time to write that up. Great job!

 

My brain hurts, and I think I need a beer. Thanks so much for writing that up. I don't know if I have the ***** to do the tuning myself, but I have done basic deltadash settings on my WRX and understood the principles well.

Its more satisfying to do the stuff yourself, but not sure if by not going to a "professional tuner" that I am not leaving some significant power behind or taking too much risk.

Has anyone an example of using this software, and using a carputer. Something that could run the software all the time in real time in place of the hardware gauges? It seems to me that a decent carputer setup with touch screen could be really handy to be logging all the time, and real time configurable gauges would be more flexible. Does anyone have that setup.

M

 

question. I dont understand why you tune the timing map before setting the boost.

Wont increasing boost pressure make the a/f leaner and thus increase the chance of detonation?

I was thinking the way how I would tune is to set the boost first keeping the timing stock, and watch the knock and the AFR.

Then add fuel as I raise boost, then after advance the timing and keep watching the knock and afr.

I remember I had a friend blow up his motor with a rich WOT a/f ratio because his timing was too far advanced.

Is my strategy the "wrong" way to tune or can it work as well?

 

It's not wrong. It'll work just fine. That's how i do it. There's no pre-set order. This thread has guidelines, not rules set in stone.

 

to what each one of the voltages does it correspond in the chart of injector battery voltaje?

4.69 ----- range load or rpm
7.03------
9.38------
11.72----
14.06----
16.41----
18.68-----

if you move any valor where affect in the fuel map

 

no what happens is that the signal to keep your injectors open is sent to the injector in volts what happens is that if there is a surge of power from the alternator or a drop in powerthe signal will be delayed or advanced so that table is there to compensate for these times....just so you know all cars voltage fluxs like this it just needs to be adjusted when you change injectors cause there bigger