Need your ROM ID.

 

94170015 and i pulled up my MUT table and in MUT12x col. #1 i see 8126 col # is 883E. which one would i change?..

 

anyone...?

 

Gotta go get my laptop give me a couple and I'll try to help

 

alirght. thanks man .

 

ok 0x8409 to the mut table Row 1 (Y) Column 2 (X) Where 88B5 is currently

 

alright i changed the MUT to the above and now i have check engine light. i did tephras o2 sim. but its still on. any ideas??..

 

ok i plan on doing this real soon to my buddies Evo 8 with an AEM Uego WB and to my evo 9 with a LC-1 WB. is this worth doing? i would like to think so since hooking up all those cables can be a pain in the a$$ sometimes. it seems better to log with just one cable. also i bought my cable along with the evoscan program. after purchasing i read somewhere that the Tactrix cable and the one you buy with the evoscan program are different. will this affect anything if it's true?

also are the pin layouts found on the first page accurate? this looks like it will take some time to do just want to make sure i have everything needed and that i'm prepared for it!

 

This setup has worked great for me. I love having one cable to plug into the PC and not having to worry about whether my WB system is going to get along with EvoScan. Another advantage in the near future is that the v7 tephra ROM has an option to have the CEL flash or have the ECU pull boost on lean (or rich) AFR. A WB will need to be wired into the ECU for this feature to work.

The pin locations are accurate.

 

thanks mrfred. now do you have to completely remove the rear o2 sensor from the car? i'm sure i'll have more questions soon. thanks for the work you do!

 

Many people choose to completely remove the rear O2 sensor. It easily unplugs from the vehicle harness. Mine is still installed. I have a separate bung for my WB.

 

Mrfred, any thoughts for adding the front O2 sensro logic that works with this mod to the V7 96530006?

 

this is a neat feature, but I suggest you check your results with a known good wideband sensor-ing normally to verify that you have installed all the procedures correctly.

I know with my install I got readings that looked good but did not match the real afr, but I am sure I didn't do the setup correctly.

 

i thought it had to be removed due to the fact that it wasnt being used and it wasnt "on". the heat from the exhaust would damage the sensor if the heater of the sensor wasnt working. so is the sensor still working just not sending the info to the ecu? if so that would be nice. wouldnt have to worry about removeing the sensor at all.

 

Yes, the sensor can be left installed without damaging it as the heater will continue to operate.