Alright here is the situation. i got tuned a few months ago and got the no lift shift programed in. worked fine for about a week and then stopped working. i went racing one weekend, tried to use it and over-reved. didnt think that much of it. i then tried to race again but this time taking foot off of gas and everytime i shift my car bogs down and i lose alot of boost. what can i do? should i get it reinstalled? my tuner said to try the clutch switch near driver? its really hurting me because i am comparing my 1/4 times with other people and i am doing horrible. i have consistant 1.6 60 foot times but the fastest time i can do was a 13.2. i have full 3" exhaust, intake, upic and lower, mbc, hks 272 cams, ported exhaust head, fererra stainless steel valves, 02 housing, tuned at 26lbs. i dont get what should i do?

 

delete it all together. No big need for it

 

i dont want to get rid of it i want to find a way to fix it.

 

Take it to a tunner or a shop that knows what they are doing.

 

If the NTLS has been flashed into your ECU there is no point reinstalling it unless you were messing around with your ROM file and reflashed the car.

The only thing I can think of that can physically happen is the clutch switch was moved or something therefor not engaging the NTLS causing you to overrev. Check underneath your dash. Make sure that when the clutch pedal is pushed down it hits and depresses the clutch switch. You may also want to ask your tuner (if you don't have ECUflash) to lower the amount of rev drop for the NLTS if its bogging too much.

 

which switch would it be. i know there is two switches but is it the top or bottom switch that i should be looking at?

 

Check the bottom one near the firewall. The clutch should hit the switch when you press down on the clutch pedal. Also, check how much travel there is left on the clutch pedal when it first hits the switch. I believe the switch can be adjusted higher or lower which would affect the engagement of the NLTS (<-- not sure of this though, haven't looked myself but on DSM clutch pedals, the switches were adjustable via lock nut).

 

NLTS references the TOP switch. If your clutch adjustment is even a little off, it can miss the switch altogether. this will cause premature fuel cuts at random and inconvenient times, Which is not your problem. check the switch to make sure it moves freely.

If you're worried about the bottom switch's functionality, start the car. If it starts, you're good.

 

What a useless post. Its a great feature to use and has done wonders for my consistency and ET's at the track. Just because YOU might not have a use for it doesn't mean no one has a use for it.