then your low timing map is probably being used. 2 counts is certainly not 1deg.

 

I agree I have seen the same thing I may have a timing line that follow:
10 9 8 8 8 7 6 6 5
And with a count or two in one cell it will be
10 9 8 7 8 7 6 6 5

I want to say ive seen this generally at the very beg of the cross over from vacuum to boost. Or part throttle.

Do most of you guys set your high octane and low octane maps the same? I feel like this is just disabling a feature that is meant to save the motor in those super rare occasions when crap fuel is used or there is a problem??

I certainly know that with the two paid tunes that I had, my low octane map was set to be more conservative then high octane. One was set up a little better then the other but....

 

I set them both = to get the low and high to have the same settings under 100 load. Then I reduce everything from 100 load up by about 3 degrees for the "safety" margin.

 

this seems like a safer alternative. I wouldn't imagine that you would be able to do much damage under 100 load anyway.

 

you do realize once the knock sensor starts to read knock it looks for it harder throughout the pull, which triggers an ongoing string of timing being pulled.

the timing maps most important to make the low map more conservative then anything. i noticed if you have to much of a difference between the 2 maps, you can also cause even more knock.

 

Adjust the "knock sum decay timer" to a lower value to make the knock read fast and decay fast.

 

For the first comment. Yes I do realize this. Remember our discussion a couple pages back about a pull starting with knock and then it ruining the entire run?

Good point in the second comment. I guess I didnt realize that the ECU may use both intermittently depending on conditions and interpolate. I thought it was more of a one or the other.

 

ok cool. also i changed my low/mid/high to 17 20 20 for my 2.3L's extra noise being created. someone else with a 2.3 recommended this to me.

im going to give my a/f another shot, i just had to take a break from the car it was getting frustrating because my maps were so jaggy and garbage.

heres an example how horrible my fuel map was that i had to go off from a base.
and heres after i increased afr slightly and smoothed it out, now i can atleast adjust the afr without looking at a mountain.

the more i mess with my map the more i understand how to read it when looking at it. which helps big time.

 

^^ did you use that spread sheet to make it nice and smooth like that? Or just did it manually?

Either way good job as far as an aesthetic point of view its looks great!

 

well first i edited the traced cells to be leaner, and then i manually smoothed around them for 2hrs i guess? and then i used the smoother tool to finish it off. I spent time on the fuel map, because i noticed when the map was smoother with my other map i got from someone else on here the car had a smoother pull to it, vs the old jaggy map.

 

Nice and smooth.....looking good.

 

thanks, hopefully theres not to much needing to do to get a/f atleast 11 flat. but now i can atleast make edits to the map and not be confused by the wierd lego style blocked curves.

 

Why are you running so rich???? Planning on turning up the boost???

 

my old map had lean spool enabled, and the tuner tried to fight lean spool by richening the map up. should i raise the numbers more then they are now? you're referring to the 10.2 - 10.3 cells right? also im not sure if the double pumper has anything to do with it, since its set on a hobb switch to turn on at around 6psi.

 

Is it really that rich? My map is in the 9's in that area and I changed that from the previous low 9 and high 8's. and Im running much less boost then Tom more then likely.

I thought all fuel maps were different for each car anyways. Im assuming because of tolerances and electronics etc...