Trying to understand timing map
ya. not playing with that stuff until i get a/f real nice, im almost positive the new map i have sitting here has perfect a/f, but its to wet outside to do a pull on these roads, they are to slippery. i think ill be hitting peak tq at around 4100 with this new a/f (i hope)
then timing map.. should be able to hit well over 500 at just 32psi on my setup, if not, somethings very wrong.
then timing map.. should be able to hit well over 500 at just 32psi on my setup, if not, somethings very wrong.
what are you doing with your car ethan? getting it straightened out?
ADD: i would do a boost leak test if you didnt already, and i would also super glue and zip tie
every vac line tube that has to do with the FPR setup, they have a tendency of popping off,
and that is the last thing you want coming off during a pull. also ziptie the tube to the
internal wastegate as well, because if that comes off you are boosting w/e the turbo can
spin to.
something else i noticed that was causing my phantom knock was, theres a bracket right near
the lower piping very close to the radiator square box with the electrical plugs going into it.
If you look, on your actual engine bay theres a bracket bolted to the side on the underside of
the air intake. It holds i believe the stock BCS and it WILL hit your piping during a pull and cause
knock issues. so you loosen it and rotate it out of the way, and slightly bend it.
I didnt remove mine, cause it was still plugged in, and wasnt sure if it was like that cause it will throw
a code unhooked or not, applaud u would know.. can i remove that and unhook that piece and disable
the check engine light it throws?
ADD: i would do a boost leak test if you didnt already, and i would also super glue and zip tie
every vac line tube that has to do with the FPR setup, they have a tendency of popping off,
and that is the last thing you want coming off during a pull. also ziptie the tube to the
internal wastegate as well, because if that comes off you are boosting w/e the turbo can
spin to.
something else i noticed that was causing my phantom knock was, theres a bracket right near
the lower piping very close to the radiator square box with the electrical plugs going into it.
If you look, on your actual engine bay theres a bracket bolted to the side on the underside of
the air intake. It holds i believe the stock BCS and it WILL hit your piping during a pull and cause
knock issues. so you loosen it and rotate it out of the way, and slightly bend it.
I didnt remove mine, cause it was still plugged in, and wasnt sure if it was like that cause it will throw
a code unhooked or not, applaud u would know.. can i remove that and unhook that piece and disable
the check engine light it throws?
Last edited by tscompusa2; Mar 12, 2010 at 08:56 AM.
Yes it will throw a code if you unplug it.
Just remove the bracket and screw the solenoid into the bracket hole. You will have to disconnect it to do this. It will give you enough room for the inter-cooler pipes.
Sometimes certain pipes will also hit the fan control box. I bent mine out of the way. My HKS pipes would hit it.
You really should remove the load limit. It will be essential for you to have an accurate tune as currently you have no idea what load you are actually hitting in that 379 area.
Just remove the bracket and screw the solenoid into the bracket hole. You will have to disconnect it to do this. It will give you enough room for the inter-cooler pipes.
Sometimes certain pipes will also hit the fan control box. I bent mine out of the way. My HKS pipes would hit it.
You really should remove the load limit. It will be essential for you to have an accurate tune as currently you have no idea what load you are actually hitting in that 379 area.
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I havent had anytime to mess with anything the last few days and this weekend I will be in Vermont. So I wont be able to do much till monday or tuesday. But Since I feel like Ive got everything basicaly squared away ive loaded my original maps from the guy that tuned my car to see how things looked with them. I haven't been able to do a proper log, but i do have the CEL flash set on for knock and it doesn't knock during any pulls 3rd or 4th. Well doesn't knock more then 3 counts at least.
I have done a boost leak check about a month ago and I plan on doing another one soon before I go...Super glue? I feel like thats a bad idea. Tight zip ties should be more then enough. If i ever had to take some of those super glued vac/boost lines off it would suck for sure. Not to mention the glue will make the rubber hard and crack eventually. Those lines are always flexing and expanding so I would want them to stay pliable.
From my understanding diabling the load limit is just increasing the value that can be "seen" or used by the ecu. Since im pretty sure the only thing that would effect is your boost cut if its still enabled then I dont see why you wouldnt want to be able to log load over the 379. Its certainly not limiting the car from hitting above that value like a cut is. If it was you would feel it. Brick wall....
I have done a boost leak check about a month ago and I plan on doing another one soon before I go...Super glue? I feel like thats a bad idea. Tight zip ties should be more then enough. If i ever had to take some of those super glued vac/boost lines off it would suck for sure. Not to mention the glue will make the rubber hard and crack eventually. Those lines are always flexing and expanding so I would want them to stay pliable.
From my understanding diabling the load limit is just increasing the value that can be "seen" or used by the ecu. Since im pretty sure the only thing that would effect is your boost cut if its still enabled then I dont see why you wouldnt want to be able to log load over the 379. Its certainly not limiting the car from hitting above that value like a cut is. If it was you would feel it. Brick wall....
I havent had anytime to mess with anything the last few days and this weekend I will be in Vermont. So I wont be able to do much till monday or tuesday. But Since I feel like Ive got everything basicaly squared away ive loaded my original maps from the guy that tuned my car to see how things looked with them. I haven't been able to do a proper log, but i do have the CEL flash set on for knock and it doesn't knock during any pulls 3rd or 4th. Well doesn't knock more then 3 counts at least.
I have done a boost leak check about a month ago and I plan on doing another one soon before I go...Super glue? I feel like thats a bad idea. Tight zip ties should be more then enough. If i ever had to take some of those super glued vac/boost lines off it would suck for sure. Not to mention the glue will make the rubber hard and crack eventually. Those lines are always flexing and expanding so I would want them to stay pliable.
From my understanding diabling the load limit is just increasing the value that can be "seen" or used by the ecu. Since im pretty sure the only thing that would effect is your boost cut if its still enabled then I dont see why you wouldnt want to be able to log load over the 379. Its certainly not limiting the car from hitting above that value like a cut is. If it was you would feel it. Brick wall....
I have done a boost leak check about a month ago and I plan on doing another one soon before I go...Super glue? I feel like thats a bad idea. Tight zip ties should be more then enough. If i ever had to take some of those super glued vac/boost lines off it would suck for sure. Not to mention the glue will make the rubber hard and crack eventually. Those lines are always flexing and expanding so I would want them to stay pliable.
From my understanding diabling the load limit is just increasing the value that can be "seen" or used by the ecu. Since im pretty sure the only thing that would effect is your boost cut if its still enabled then I dont see why you wouldnt want to be able to log load over the 379. Its certainly not limiting the car from hitting above that value like a cut is. If it was you would feel it. Brick wall....
i dont need to disable the load, infact i can get the same HP with 260 load maps, its not something im interested in doing right now. its showing im making less hp/tq then prior setup but this setup feels more torque'er for sure, it spins 2nd gear.
Yes it will throw a code if you unplug it.
Just remove the bracket and screw the solenoid into the bracket hole. You will have to disconnect it to do this. It will give you enough room for the inter-cooler pipes.
Sometimes certain pipes will also hit the fan control box. I bent mine out of the way. My HKS pipes would hit it.
You really should remove the load limit. It will be essential for you to have an accurate tune as currently you have no idea what load you are actually hitting in that 379 area.
Just remove the bracket and screw the solenoid into the bracket hole. You will have to disconnect it to do this. It will give you enough room for the inter-cooler pipes.
Sometimes certain pipes will also hit the fan control box. I bent mine out of the way. My HKS pipes would hit it.
You really should remove the load limit. It will be essential for you to have an accurate tune as currently you have no idea what load you are actually hitting in that 379 area.
after i am happy where im at with these things ill rescale and start over, i dont mind doing this, so its enjoyable.
great thread ethan, appauld, and tcompusa. My frigan eye's hurt now.. I got tuned by chris at mellon (great guy) on 93 oct at 29 psi with bolt ons, arp studs, stock block, 1250 fic's, and more (no porting). I got 437 hp and 390 tq on dll.
So now i decided to tune my car on 100 oct. lookin for more power and was wondering how my maps looked so far. I had to pull a bunch of fuel first cause my afr's went way rich of course and wasn't sure if i should add any more timing. No knock just random 1 to 3 sometimes.
EvoScanDataLog_2010.03.22_14.52.49.csv:
Damn, i guess my map didn't download. What's the best way to get it on a post. Computers aren't my best friend..
BTW got 480 hp 420 tq on 100 so far on vdr!
So now i decided to tune my car on 100 oct. lookin for more power and was wondering how my maps looked so far. I had to pull a bunch of fuel first cause my afr's went way rich of course and wasn't sure if i should add any more timing. No knock just random 1 to 3 sometimes.
EvoScanDataLog_2010.03.22_14.52.49.csv:
Damn, i guess my map didn't download. What's the best way to get it on a post. Computers aren't my best friend..
BTW got 480 hp 420 tq on 100 so far on vdr!
Last edited by Walt; Mar 22, 2010 at 04:15 PM.
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Thanks Walt I learned a lot from this thread and still am learning!
It looks like you have been tuning your own maps for 100octane so they are not your maps. Well they always were yours just modified by a tuner for your driving pleasure..
You cant upload excel files to Evom. It sucks. Just put them in a Zip folder then upload that. Thats the easiest way in my opinion.
Ethan
It looks like you have been tuning your own maps for 100octane so they are not your maps. Well they always were yours just modified by a tuner for your driving pleasure..
You cant upload excel files to Evom. It sucks. Just put them in a Zip folder then upload that. Thats the easiest way in my opinion.
Ethan
I have been tuning my old maps for 100 oct., are you saying don't post them cause i've just been tuned by Mellon on 93. I don't want to step on any toes here and respecct Chris very much but can't afford another tune at this time and wanted to have at it for 100 oct.
If this is the case i won't post the map. Also i would never post HIS maps on evom.
When i build my block next winter i will most def. go back to Chris for a retune!
If this is the case i won't post the map. Also i would never post HIS maps on evom.
When i build my block next winter i will most def. go back to Chris for a retune!
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