knock voltage can help determine if its real or phantom knock sometimes. if you're doing a pull and the voltage is 2v throughout yet you see some knock but the voltage didn't change then it tells you its not real knock.

btw that dyno sheet i posted up here yesturday that i thought was 18psi, was 25psi. i must have the 25psi wg actuator, for some reason i thought i had the 18.

airflow just tells you how much you're actually flowing ,the more you flow, the more power you make (or atleast should).

i dont know the calculation to convert the HZ into lb/min, but if you're flowing anywhere near 40lb/min you're doing good. im gonna say 1700hz is no more than 28lb/min though ... maybe theres a calculator on google.

 

Good stuff. Thanks for the info.

Here something else that I have noticed recently and was curious if anyone had experience. I had been using a perrin inline MBC up until now. It seemed to work ok. The reason for swapping it out was that it was fluctuating boost during a pull with full boost. id see 23 22 23 21 20 23 etc.. You could see it pretty well on the dyno as well. I could see it for my recent tune a couple months back and way before I got a tune and participated in a dyno day 3 years ago. So I swapped it out for the Hallman MBC with ceramic ball.

Im seeing much lower loads now. peaking 260 once in a while and hovering around the 240-250 range. Before Id see peaks of 295 and floating in the 260 range.

The perrin MBC is a bleeder style. Meaning it has a weep hole and releaves pressure through it. Im assuming now that this was essentially a "boost leak" Im not why it setup like this but to be honest it worked...sort of. Once I swapped to the proven Hallman that is not a bleeder style the drivabilty of the my car was %100 better then before. I had some surging and flutter and throttle issues with the perrin. I had a forge DV on the car for quite a while too which made it worse. Swapped that to the JDM IX/MR valve and it was also much better. Now its EVEN better.

That being said are my lower loads normal load cells for what im running? Dont forget ive got the S2's in there too...

-Ethan

 

i think loads determined by airflow being pushed, so that seems correct to me for your boost level.


i like hallman's a lot. if you look closely though, the hallman does have a bleed hole to help stabilize the boost. the holes built into the nut with the nipple attached.

 

Whats the take on doing the free air calibration for the wideband in the car? Ive read shutting the car off while coasting and keeping it in gear for 10 seconds with the throttle open to clear the exhaust then remove from gear turn ignition on without starting and push the cal button. After cal is complete start car.

I haven't done a cal in a while and want to make sure what Im reading is acurate while fuel adjustments are made...

-Ethan

 

not sure, i dont have a lc1. i have a aem.

 

heres my latest results... i changed the fuel map a bit, im not to sure i want to continue though with this AEM wideband. it seems its pegged to 10 AFR. are these numbers even possible at 10AFR on e85?



if i floor the car starting at 2K the knock train comes, but if i floor the car starting at about 3300rpm no knock throughout the entire pull... any insight on this?

my timing map needs a lot of work, the tq sucks especially for a 2.3 + black setup.

im not so sure i want to continue though, becuase i dont know how much i trust this AEM wideband.

anyone else care to comment on this pic?

 

^maybe you need a new sensor.

 

its brand new. it reads fine during cruise and idle just not WOT, maybe my WOT is pig rich. i know evo's come frmo factory at like 9.5 afr, so i guess its possible to make power pig rich. that was at 30psi.

 

might be as simple as too much timing down low... But would need to verify AFR...
Also, you have cams, you might need to back off a bit down low.
How much knock we talking bout?
post up your fuel/timing maps, so we can have a look.
Im sure you realize the smoothing is @ 5. anything under 8 (for me) makes the graph look like ****. Either that, or you have huge boost fluctuations...

Also, I think (w/ the black) might be a lil early to start your pull. Its kinda like starting @ 3000 in 5th. I would think that w/ a black, you would start the pull ~ 3-3500. I have no experience w/ any upgraded turbos, yet, so keep thatr in mind. Just my .02

 

I think the afr is legit my plugs are pretty black. i just cant believe i made that kind of HP with **** afr though. than again i do have a pretty big power mod list. and 30psi should probably yield 580 not what im getting here now.

smoothed to 12 the numbers went to: 481/373 smoothed to 8: 491/384.

 

ok, by looking @ your log, look right at the onset of knock, whats just happened to your AFR? A huge swing from 12.9 to 11.4 - 10.9.
Cars will knock when too rich as well!
First thing I would do, is try to smooth/taper that out, so its not such a drastic swing.

For now as a safety measure, shoot for 11.5 @ peak boost, so taper 12.5 - 12.0 during spool, and 11.0 till redline, and then work your way back to 11.5 throught.

My car (stock turbo) doesnt like to start spooling under 23-2400, (although I should be able to get away w/ 2000) so maybe the black has its "sweet spot" to start pulls. Each gear will be a different rpm point!

Look at all of the graphs posted (black) most of the pulls I have seen/remember, start ~ 3k

 

ok. but it still shouldnt knock just hitting it from a lower rpm right? i dont remember this happening with my red + stock motor when ivey tuned it. i just never experienced a car that would knock if u punched it downlow but if you punched it from say 3500 on up it goes till redline knock free. evo's are wierd.

its gotta be the afr like you said, its jumping around like crazy, i bet the timing needs adjusted also.

ill load these pulls into map tracer and see what i got. thanks.

this is just a temp tune anyways on stock maf, so i can have fun with car a bit, its been down to long. but im switching to SD soon.

 

i think i see the issue with the afr, lean spool was enabled when i got dyno tuned and using the same map now, and i disabled lean spool, so maybe its super pig rich now because before i bet the spool area was richened up to compensate for the excessive lean spool. does that make sense?

 

I know when a run starts with some knock it tends to trigger knock throughout the pull. I noticed that when I was tuning with mellon for quite a few pulls. I also see it now. When the ECU gets involved and start interpolating the map and what not it seems to be more knock prone. Just what ive noticed. Obviously im not expert, just a thought.

 

ya that makes perfect sense. once it starts knocking it doesnt stop. thats why i was calling it a knock train. gotta find out wtf is causing mine. probably the ****ty a/f.