who would pay for a
BOO, winter! Any luck on the TPMS program mode?
I realize we can disable with the Lexia, but I rather like the functionality of it, especially since I'm not always the one driving the car, and would prefer a method to just reprogram my sensors seasonally when I swap wheels/tires. I haven't seen or heard specifically that this can be done with the tool, only heard of completely disabling the option coding.
I realize we can disable with the Lexia, but I rather like the functionality of it, especially since I'm not always the one driving the car, and would prefer a method to just reprogram my sensors seasonally when I swap wheels/tires. I haven't seen or heard specifically that this can be done with the tool, only heard of completely disabling the option coding.
AYC still functions, in that it still distributes power to left/right rear wheels AND diff lock up depending on traction needs.
So doing the double press button thing (Full ASC off) turns off all the traction control brake and throttle nannies but all the clever power distribution still works 100%. Front and rear.
AYC still works, ACD still works, but without ASC doing it's electronic braking and throttle reduction.
More info: http://media.mitsubishicars.com/rele...4b0dd201/print
Last edited by razorlab; Dec 21, 2012 at 01:17 PM.
"AYC Brake" turns off the traction control brake assist to left/right wheels.
AYC still functions, in that it still distributes power to left/right rear wheels AND diff lock up depending on traction needs.
So doing the double press button thing (Full ASC off) turns off all the traction control brake and throttle nannies but all the clever power distribution still works 100%. Front and rear.
AYC still works, ACD still works, but without ASC doing it's electronic braking and throttle reduction.
More info: http://media.mitsubishicars.com/rele...4b0dd201/print
AYC still functions, in that it still distributes power to left/right rear wheels AND diff lock up depending on traction needs.
So doing the double press button thing (Full ASC off) turns off all the traction control brake and throttle nannies but all the clever power distribution still works 100%. Front and rear.
AYC still works, ACD still works, but without ASC doing it's electronic braking and throttle reduction.
More info: http://media.mitsubishicars.com/rele...4b0dd201/print
Thought it became useless then.
So I got the program, got the pump installed and used the program with the bleeder screw on the transfer case opened up with a clean hose...I`m not getting any fluid comming out at all..none. even after running the program 3 times...shouldn`t fluid come out with air, then eventually only fluid? Like bleeding brakes?
Thanks
Thanks
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,486
Likes: 67
From: Melbourne, Australia
yep... it will squirt..
assuming you have fluid in there... surely its not completely dry.
does the pump make a noise when you activate the bleed feature in the program?
assuming you have fluid in there... surely its not completely dry.
does the pump make a noise when you activate the bleed feature in the program?
The pump was out of the car getting fixed, then I had to that the motor apart so the transfer case came out, lines probably got completly empty. I put the pump back in today, as soon as I opened up the bleeder screw I got a little fluid (before the program was started) then I started the program, got a couple boobles then just air, no fluid at all. The fluid tank is good, it did go down a little the first time I ran the program, so it did work a little. I`m not getting any messages for service on the dash any more and the thing that shows where power is going is working again. Should I just keep running the program until I get fluid? Ran it 3 times already. Thetra said it times out after 20 minutes, but after like 5 it was showing everything as desactivated so I was turning it off...is there anything later on in the program? I have to make a trip tomorrow, air in the system wont wurn anything will it? It just won`t work to full like it should?
Need help here guys, thanks
Ok so after driving around for a while the system sort of bleed it self I guess, the fluid was low so I topped it off again. Now a week later i`m getting the stupid awc service needed warning AGAIN. I checked the fluid level and it`s good. I figured I would run the little program again, maybe there was just a air bubble in the system or something, no luck the parning still comes up as soon as the car moves. I just payed 1000$ to get the stupid pump fixed...what could possibly be wrong this time? Come on guys I really need help on this. Getting really pissed off with this stupid thing.
Don't forget the Service Required Error could be anything to do with the whole AYC system including the fact that the tyres aren't all the same size. Odd tyre size knackered my pump as it was running all the time, it didn't help with the corrosion but the constant running finally screwed it.
Like Tephra said, get the codes and check what is actually wrong.
Did you get a pressure test on the pump, what PSI was it producing?
Like Tephra said, get the codes and check what is actually wrong.
Did you get a pressure test on the pump, what PSI was it producing?
Ok so after driving around for a while the system sort of bleed it self I guess, the fluid was low so I topped it off again. Now a week later i`m getting the stupid awc service needed warning AGAIN. I checked the fluid level and it`s good. I figured I would run the little program again, maybe there was just a air bubble in the system or something, no luck the parning still comes up as soon as the car moves. I just payed 1000$ to get the stupid pump fixed...what could possibly be wrong this time? Come on guys I really need help on this. Getting really pissed off with this stupid thing.
Hi
I don`t know, I don`t have a way to check the code, thats a dealer only on the awc right?
The first time I bleed the pump I never had any fluid come out at all. it dropped in the tank a little but I can`t get fluid to come out. Yesterday I just ran the program with the car on the ground just to see if it would help. I didn`t use the bleeder srecw this time.
I never had a pressure test. the pump is newly rebuilt I just put it on last week. The pressure should be good.
I don`t know, I don`t have a way to check the code, thats a dealer only on the awc right?
The first time I bleed the pump I never had any fluid come out at all. it dropped in the tank a little but I can`t get fluid to come out. Yesterday I just ran the program with the car on the ground just to see if it would help. I didn`t use the bleeder srecw this time.
I never had a pressure test. the pump is newly rebuilt I just put it on last week. The pressure should be good.
In general, I would not say that I bled something if no fluid came out. I'm sure that you know this and I'm just being a pedantic pain in the butt; I'm mostly saying this because, as I search around read all the threads, I keep coming across very confusing posts.
I wish I knew more about bleeding Xs, in particular, so that I could help. I assume that you have had someone with their head in your trunk to verify that the new pump comes on when you set the car to run and floor the gas (or do whatever you need to do with EvoScan to activate the pump). If that's another insulting question, just tell me to buzz off and I will.
I wish I knew more about bleeding Xs, in particular, so that I could help. I assume that you have had someone with their head in your trunk to verify that the new pump comes on when you set the car to run and floor the gas (or do whatever you need to do with EvoScan to activate the pump). If that's another insulting question, just tell me to buzz off and I will.







