Yea, there's no AFR in that log.

Also, in the future please just change the extension to .txt or something and tell us to change it back to .csv. Makes it much easier to go through the log when we can filter by TPS, etc.

Also, BEKevo, there's no minimum TPS. My TPS at idle is 10.x%

 

As a side note, I wanted to say thank you to all that are helping out and putting their input in. I truly appreciate it bc I probably would have just moved on and I would have had a blown motor.

 

Isn't AFR typically logged with a wideband o2? I ask bc I am thinking he didn't use one.

 

Bad sign..

And yes either through the rear 02 input or by a serial cablem(ie AFR gauge to computer)

 

Im pretty certain he plugged the computer in, logged it, did some minor adjustments to idle, then gave it back to me. I had to supply him the program, computer, and wire to connect to the ECU. He never mentioned the wideband, since I personally dont own one, so I bet he never used one.

 

Thanks Raptord, I see it's really not a neccessity


While some do it for easier tuning

 

Did he have a AFR sensor by your tailpipe aka dyno wide-band? Some shops use this technique for customers who don't have AFR logging ability. If he didn't, you should have a log of your AFR. If he didn't tune you taking AFR into account, please never go back to him and find a new tuner.

Also you must have some beefy cams in there.. That's the only way I could see someone justifying raising the target idle to ~1200 rpm, shown in your logs.. IMO that's a mickey mouse trick to resolve idle stability problems (particularly if you don't have aggressive cams or stock)

 

I was told, when I purchased the car, it has HKS 264/264 cams.

 

And yes, he couldn't get the car to idle. If I am cruising down the highway and put the clutch in it will die alot of the times. He says there is no way to correct that. After all this I have read in regards to his job so far, I am certain he is lying about it.

 

Then there's no reason your target idle should be that high. I would set the target idle at ~ 900 rpm and make the timing idle block 7*, at most

 

Go to another tuner/ shop. You need some work

 

-Idle dying could either be a leak or MANY things.
-With 264 cams, I'm pretty sure you could get it stable at 950RPM/14,7AFR with about 8* at idle. Not 20-21* and 1200RPM.
-Tuning without wideband is bad.
-Glad this car resisted to dynoflash AL and this pseudo evo tuner.

X1000


end!!

 

With the issues you see from the tune and what I have told you, is this something I should even consider doing a e-tune with or a hands on tune at a shop (an actual EVO tuner)?

 

As Domyz said, your issue may be all sorts of things, some not tuning related. Find a reputable shop bud, you'll be doing yourself a favor

 

i think your low octane ignition map is better than high octane, but you need to change from load 10-40 and rpm from 500-1000 to 10!but set your idle to 950-975rpm
also i think your low octane map is better, but it needs somes changes, like idle afr to 14.2-14.7! no reason for 15.6!!!
i dont have much time to search all yours map!
if someone have other opinion i would like to hear it!!!