Bad Bish and a few quick dyno pulls with new stroker-amazing
We build a LOT of engines, I mean a LOT of engines. I can't even guess at how many in the last 20+ years. Based on the fact that in the last few years we've sold over 500 double pumpers (which I'd have never guessed until we checked the records) the amount of engines has to be.......in the thousands. Since we aren't just a parts seller and we are true enthusiasts we are constantly racing and testing our own stuff. With that said, I feel it's important that I personally run and test everything we sell.
So, my RS started out stock like everyone's. I then ran a 2 liter in all different forms in this RS and in our Black Drag Car. Aluminum rods, steel rods, aftermarket cranks, stock cranks, high compression etc. To this day the quickest ET and fastest MPH were set on a high compression 2 liter, aluminum rod engine.
We were splitting cylinder walls in the 2.0's pretty steadily and I didn't want it to happen to my RS, so a lot of the 2.0's were hard blocked. I decided to get away from the hardblock and built a 2.1. That was a 4G64 block with a 2 liter crank/long rod in it. I made the most power (up until now) with the 2.1. I built that engine with steel and aluminum rods with a variety of piston designs over the 2-3 years I ran a 2.1. The best we ran with the 2.1 was a bunch of 9.1's at 158.xx mph.
Then last year I pulled the 2.1 and built a custom 2.0 long rod engine for the car. I ran that engine once, it ran a very traction limited 9.3 pass at 158.xx mph.
This is the first time I've ran one of our 2.3 strokers in the car. I have never ran a 2.4 in the car, I probably never will.
Some of the longest lasting high horsepower builds we've ever done have been 2.3's. I'd guess it's because of the advised rev limit of 8500 rpm. In this case, this 2.3 I built was put together to go much higher in the RPM so I can still use it to drag race. I'm hoping to be able to run it, on a limited basis, to 9850 rpm. I need that much RPM to finish the 1/4 mile in 4th gear.
As for the loading on the dyno, I have not change how the car loads. The car saw well over 640 whp in 3rd but the tires were spinning so hard it would not read correctly to the screen and I gave up.
Previously I've always only dyno'd my car in 3rd gear. The best power it's ever made in 3rd gear is right about 710 whp and 585 ft lbs at 42'ish psi of boost. The car simply can't be dyno'd in 3rd now so I had to use 4th.
I would like to try to tie it down harder next time it goes on as I don't like running the car in 4th gear run after run after run.
3rd gear boost logs are whacked because by the time it hits 4500 rpm the car is already spinning too hard.
Here is the RPM vs Boost plot for this run/dyno sheet. If I turned the controller up just a bit it would hit 32 psi harder but it's turned down all the way right now. The 31 psi reference for this plot is the boost level at 7500 rpm at the end of the dyno graph.
So, my RS started out stock like everyone's. I then ran a 2 liter in all different forms in this RS and in our Black Drag Car. Aluminum rods, steel rods, aftermarket cranks, stock cranks, high compression etc. To this day the quickest ET and fastest MPH were set on a high compression 2 liter, aluminum rod engine.
We were splitting cylinder walls in the 2.0's pretty steadily and I didn't want it to happen to my RS, so a lot of the 2.0's were hard blocked. I decided to get away from the hardblock and built a 2.1. That was a 4G64 block with a 2 liter crank/long rod in it. I made the most power (up until now) with the 2.1. I built that engine with steel and aluminum rods with a variety of piston designs over the 2-3 years I ran a 2.1. The best we ran with the 2.1 was a bunch of 9.1's at 158.xx mph.
Then last year I pulled the 2.1 and built a custom 2.0 long rod engine for the car. I ran that engine once, it ran a very traction limited 9.3 pass at 158.xx mph.
This is the first time I've ran one of our 2.3 strokers in the car. I have never ran a 2.4 in the car, I probably never will.
Some of the longest lasting high horsepower builds we've ever done have been 2.3's. I'd guess it's because of the advised rev limit of 8500 rpm. In this case, this 2.3 I built was put together to go much higher in the RPM so I can still use it to drag race. I'm hoping to be able to run it, on a limited basis, to 9850 rpm. I need that much RPM to finish the 1/4 mile in 4th gear.
As for the loading on the dyno, I have not change how the car loads. The car saw well over 640 whp in 3rd but the tires were spinning so hard it would not read correctly to the screen and I gave up.
Previously I've always only dyno'd my car in 3rd gear. The best power it's ever made in 3rd gear is right about 710 whp and 585 ft lbs at 42'ish psi of boost. The car simply can't be dyno'd in 3rd now so I had to use 4th.
I would like to try to tie it down harder next time it goes on as I don't like running the car in 4th gear run after run after run.
3rd gear boost logs are whacked because by the time it hits 4500 rpm the car is already spinning too hard.
Here is the RPM vs Boost plot for this run/dyno sheet. If I turned the controller up just a bit it would hit 32 psi harder but it's turned down all the way right now. The 31 psi reference for this plot is the boost level at 7500 rpm at the end of the dyno graph.
Same theory when you apply the same turbo to different makes/model motors... they consume the turbo at different max boost levels due to design.
I would love to hit the max flow rating on a turbo at such low boost... that is incredible.
Geebus torque... that torque curve is absolutely amazing. This car is going to be absolutely disgusting when you finish up the tune. Not going to be a lot on the street that can come even close to sticking with it.
David, my car was at your shop in august. You built a 2.3 for me the. I am 90% sure I'm going to be ordering your ff setup with an hta86. Is the compression ratio the same as what is in my car, or is this a brand new 2.3 that you just started offering? It seems the 2.3 86 combo is very killer.
If the engine was built in August the compression on your engine should be the same as mine, the piston however is not the same. I'm running JE's newest super light weight design they did for us. The piston is about 100 grams lighter per piston than what you have.
Yes, $4400 is with a good block core.
Yes, $4400 is with a good block core.
Thanks for the quick reply. With that being said that ours are the same except for the lighter pistons. What would you recommend for the max rpm my engine should be? 8500? Have you an idea of the gains of the front facing kit? It's gonna pack alot of air in there. Jw if you had any comparisons of the gains from the ff setup? Thanks again



