A couple weeks for one of these engines.

 

this is priced very well, especially with the crank. That's one hell of a price for an engine. Dave, how would this fare with an fp red or black? I look at dynos of 300k cars and their graph is not even this nice and they have 4 times the displacement!!!

 

i get full boost (currently 31-32psi) by 3800rpm on my br 2.3 with stage 3 head with an fp black ported.. id expect that or better with his new combination.

id recommend his engine & head to anybody.. just be sure to use good oil (brad penn) and check oil level when you fill up the gas tank and dont use the stock crankcase ventilation system, since that was not designed for a race engine running lots of boost.

 

just curious but what do you have done to your PCV system that your talking about?

Ive been running the stock stuff except a filter on the VC instead of a tube to the intake. I do have a spring on the dipstick but just for safety because the stick has never popped out.

Ive been out of the game for awhile since I decided my car was "done" for now. Thanks

 

mine has the driver side port drilled out and tapped for 5/8 fitting then i run that to air intake and use turbo as a vacuum source.. it relieved all my crankcase issues 100%.

then another can to be a middle man for the valve cover to intake manifold, so nothing gets burned off into the intake manifold.. (Theres many other ways to relieve pressure though.)

i ran with stock crankcase system last summer, it was fine.. handled well over 40psi.. (probably done close to 200+ pulls at that boost level) but it consumed oil also.. so you can do what you want really. just keep a close eye on oil level.

i couldn't do 1 pull with no spring, dipstick would pop out and oil the entire engine bay with stock crankcase system.. its fine now tho after i did the crankcase mod stuff. i think allot of it had to do with the kiggly HLA keeping the oil in the pan though. it built up more pressure in the oil pan when it restricted how much oil entered the head. (correct me if im wrong)

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so you can use the stock system, i just dont advice it really based on before & after of how my car feels after i relieved all the pressure.

if you want to use the stock system then you should to get the retention spring also for reassurance and safety that the dipstick dont pop off. (which you have )

the evo valve cover is insanely baffled well from factory.. incredible compared to the older dsm valve covers.

 

For an FP Black or Red build yup can probably use the standard 2.3, this is designed for guys who need the extra RPM.

I agree on good venting at the valve cover, the high boost pressures that have become so common is he'll on crankcase pressures.

 

You should never do this. If you dont want any stuff going into your intake put a catch can between the intake and the valve cover. You need the vacuum created by the turbo in the intake.

 

Even with a catch can inline you are going to get oil in your intake.

 

David, how do the Manleys in the LR2.4 compare to these JEs (weights) and will you be offering a choice between the two in the LR2.4 setup?

 

There is about a 100 gram difference in the 2.3RPM pistons we use and the 2.4 pistons we use. I will not be having JE's built for the 2.4's.

 

Hey Dave, Im curious. May be a stupid question, as it may not matter.
Im wondering if the cylinder head work is the same for all of your motor combos?
It appears that the displacement of 2.3 is working very well.

 

Perhaps I should have said less stuff in your intake. With a nice baffled can it will be much less than the straight hose, but it will not prevent all of it. It is still better than a filter which will get oil soaked and actually prevent venting.

 

No, all of our head work is not the same.

batty200, agreed. The best way to get a good draw on the crankcase pressure, other than a dry sump, is to route it back into the exhaust, but get ready for some smoking under WOT and I never liked that much.

 

I had planned to be on the dyno today but was informed by Crispeed there was a new firmware update out with some nice new features in it (Haltech). I decided that before I went further I'd update the firmware and then spent the last 5 hours working on nothing but that. The firmware update was easy but I then decided to go over every single table in the entire tune and set them all up in the sizes I wanted and just go over it with a fine toothed comb. I just plugged the tune I built into the car and I have to say.............SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!! The Haltech has impressed me since I started using it and I'm still impressed. This just goes to show how much time it really takes to do things correctly, tuning isn't an hour job and you are done. With this car I have only it to work on as nothing else I tune is on Haltech. With the AEM, Apexi Power FC and stock ECU you have cars all the time and you work from a basic map you build, it makes each car a little better and lets you constantly improve on the tuning. This reminds me how many hours I put into this.....

I can not wait to dyno this and finish up the tune. Then I'll start swapping some parts!

 

great! i cant wait to see what your fabricated intake manifold does.