i like

 

if tom goes sd, the taper will be greatly reduced. The turbo has to work on sucking the air thru the maf.

not only will he make more potential top end power with more boost, he will also make more power for the same boost due to less Pr.

 

Thank you Steve. I didnt get it yet but will have it soon. cars making me work for it. it only did 624/567 at 40psi taper to 33 last night less and 55f. not worth posting the graph until i get 650.

id gain more if i did

ams f1i
bf 272 or a s3
o2 dump
turbo header manifold
sd to open the intake pipe significant with a huge filter.

basically you connect the boost source directly to the wga and adjust it until you get the curve you want on wastegate alone.. ill admit i didnt do this entirely i just re-preloaded the wga so the flapper arm was covering the hole halfway. im gonna redo this and adjust it more.. the fp black ball bearing is extremely sensitive to adjustments in the preload and will boost to the moon if its not just right.

when i had the wga fully preloaded when i was testing, it was surging like crazy because it builds boost so easily not even trying. with the wga adjusted right the way they recommend it, it is great. its quite a difference in response. it responds quicker, and the off and on switch is instant.

i can tap the gas light and take off from a stop and go with a exedy triple i dont know if thats cause this thing builds boost and helps me get off the line easier or what.

it recovers so fast in-between shifts. the boost is just there whenever you need it.

Thanks Peter. Its got the kelford 272 right now. I am either gonna switch to a bf 272 or gsc variant or keep the kelford on im not sure yet.

I actually want the boost to taper.. if for instance say i made it hold 40psi across the turbo would seize up due to excessive shaft speeds. i want that nasty boost spike downlow to deliver that tq punch then as it gradually tapers off it still maintains boost pressure to the target.. which in this case my target is 35psi.

no, and thats not something i want to remove. its actually very healthy for the boost curve to taper. on my car 44psi is probably the maximum limit you wanna spin the turbo and 35psi uptop is probably 170KRPM+ shaft speed.. so you dont want to try and hold say 40psi to redline it will pop the turbo. the black can only take somewhere around 180K max before **** starts to hit the fan. .... literally

 

Aby you think its gonna help that much? ill do it if so. are we talking 20hp or 10hp? what do you think at the 38psi boost level?

 

wow, very impressive on a black and stock maf.
541 load

 

Thanks for clarifying. I appreciate it

 

great power. did you remove the honeycomb from the maf or reinforce it?

 

Hey the 02 dump will make a huge different bro !!! But those number are great!!! I be happy with them lol!!

 

No problem. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask.

Thanks mrfred. Yes the honeycomb is out. I removed the honeycomb sometime back in early 2010 with no ill side effects.. which i found kind of odd because the whole concept of the karmen maf is based around the honeycomb shape lol.

Ya I believe the o2 dump will make more power also. the intake manifold as well. i think if i got everything i listed in that list above earlier id be close to 680 which is very respectful for a standard fp black build. the turbos not even ported.

to everyone else.. appreciate the kind words as well.

 

Badass numbers for a shop/owner car =)

 

700hp or bust...

-Acree

 

Go SD for comparing! I believe it contributed to 60+ HP diff between my white - 71 hta swap for sure!

 

to high.. i dont wanna target that.. 650 is good for now (if i can do it).. im close. i might have to change to the ams f1i sooner then i think.

unless your stock intake pipe was restrictive as hell there's no way you gained that from sd. i will see gains yes, but nothing like that. something else contributed to that power.

they are ok i guess for the mods.. nothing is really over the top on this car just all basic bolt ons.

================

on another note i did a comp test cold on the car last night
and came back 150 across the board

Then did a leakdown test and got

cyl1 89/100 =10%
cyl2 99/100 =1%
cyl3 99/100 =1%
cyl4 99/100 =1%

So pulled valve cover off and redid studs to 125tq and then got

cyl1 96/100 = 4-5%
cyl2 100/100 = 0%
cyl3 100/100 = 0%
cyl4 100/100 = 0%

So that tells me the headstuds wanted more tq. gonna change plugs again
and change the spring in the hallman because its to stiff..

anyone else ever had to go that high in tq on ARP L19 on a oringed head to get it to seal proper?

let me advise anyone who wants to use that new stiff spring in the hallman mbc's.. its not something they give with their mbc.. you call and ask for it.

Its a "super heavy spring" .. what i was experiencing was id target my boost in 3rd to say 38psi and in 4th gear touching nothing id spike to 44psi+ .. the spring is WAY to stiff and upon inspecting my mbc last night the spring was stuck and jammed!!!!!!!!!

once i get it back out it will be in the 30f's and ill come back with a 650 graph im confident. once i hit 650 on maf then ill switch to sd and do a comparison and show real world results on the same road same direction.. so dead accuracy.

 

yes.

i will try to locate my logs from when i first went to the aem, i had the maf in place. i eventually made an intake feeding the turbo & I gained like ~2 psi @ 7k iirc.

i will try to dig that up & post it. when i find it, i will post it in this post.



not only was this compare on 2 different days, the cai run was ~20/25*F warmer!! as you can tell by the lower rpm boost trace.

This was solely removing the oem inlet tube, maf & K&N filter vs. a buschur style inlet tube & K&N

boost control was a mbc.

the reason for me to plot it against time & not rpm, is to show the acceleration difference. this plot was made in ~2004

 

This is a good question meriting further analysis. Is the taper phenomenon more likely on the larger displacement engines(2.4L, 2.3L) fitted with stock looking turbos, than it would be on a smaller displacement 2.0L mill?

Curt Brown who is running the HTA Green on a 2.3L engine reports 35 PSI spikes tapering down to 27 PSI. Of course, the Green has an even smaller turbine wheel than the Black.