btw i really appreciate those kind words.

 

Really impressive Tom, well done mate. I'm stoked with your results, that is amazing.

 

Awesome stuff!

To monitor water pressure, I use 1 of the ports used to heat the tb, the 1 off the cyl head. I did that after my 2nd hg.

for my set-up, air temp has a huge effect on boost ramp & power output.

 

excellent work! not to go off topic, I'm interested in the water pressure monitoring you set up, any chance you could share a pic or parts list?

 

+1. Btw nice beast you got there Tom. Sometimes I wish I went to a bigger displacement but I like my 2.0 for now

 

Thanks Steve.

im glad you mentioned you have a water pressure gauge as well. now we can pick each others brains and get some hard data between the 2 cars.

mine is a T built AN fitting in between the throttlebody and waterpipe coolant tube.

the reasoning for mine is i was popping waterpumps. come to find out lots of others pop the seals also, so the pumps getting sent to Mitsubishi for inspection and warranty service. 4-5 other guys pm'ed me with the same issue.

ya - air temp makes drastic changes on my car also.. i plan on updating this thread with a new pull in 35-40f.. the last one was 65f with 89% humidity. the weather swinging is crazy lately. I THINK its going to do around 630 at the current boost pressure its sitting at now. if so, then i can expect about 660 tapped out like last year. im so glad i went ahead with the porting.. it really awakened the setup up.

thanks Liqquid - sure thing - i will put together a list for you in here by tomorrow with all parts i ordered / where i got them, etc, so you can do what i did. the only thing id change is probably switch to a electric gauge vs mechanical, since its a bit safer and easier to mount in the car. right now mines just sitting in the glove box. mechanical is MUCH cheaper though on the wallet.

you got the luxury of reving to 9500~ where as i dont.. dont sell yourself short. the strokers are a blast to drive, but i miss reving past 8500 also.

would of had some track times on the Hoosier by now but the clutch slave cylinder blew the seal.. everytime i want to do something worth importance with this car it seems to go into dsm mode on me.

 

everything needed to build a waterpressure gauge in your evo:

Tools:

Wrench / sockets
Teflon tape for sealing fittings on non AN side

Parts needed:

1. -3AN Straight Swivel Stainless Braided Nitrous Line 84" (ebay)
2. Autometer 4307 Pro-Comp Ultra-Lite Water Pressure Gauge (ebay)
3. (2) 555-100051 (Jegs.com)
4. (1) 799-670000 (Jegs.com)

3 and 4 will build your (T) fitting.. the top of the T will go inbetween your coolant line from the throttle body to the waterpipe.

5. RUS-660410 (summitracing) for the T fitting to tap the -3 AN SS line for the gauge
6. For the gauge I guess I used 555-100220 (its bigger, but doesn't leak) (use teflon tape)

If you need to know anything else let me know.. the ends are barbed on 555-100051 so you can push the coolant hose on and no need for clamps.. they are pretty impossible to remove once pushed on.

As far as leak down testers go i used this: 555-80520 (Jegs.com)

ill take pics of the final setup tomorrow. i dont have anything cept for this as i was in the middle of installing it/ fitting it:

 

Just so you know guys, there is nothing wrong with using the tubing that comes with the gauge. Tom just wanted to upgrade to braided.

 

Nice results Tom with the ported hotside and retorqued head! I assume you lowered the boost from 40 to 34psi on purpose to test right? I wonder if the ported hotside, since it now flows better and gives a bit more power at lower boost, will also make it harder to reach 40 psi vs. the non ported hotside.

I understand spiking is reduced with porting the hotside, but will the added efficiency also results in lower boost for same power as before porting?

Cheers,

Ricardo

 

Ricardo -

yes - I've lowered the boost to test water pressure. ( i did not expect to be satisfied at this boost level but it turns out i am - which is a really good sign. it indicates the car picked up majorly uptop)

yes they do say that once you port the turbine it decreases spoolup speed slightly, but so far i don't see any decrease in anything.. maybe its because the exhaust manifold is semi gasket port matched better now then before? if anything it seems like its spooling quicker now and you can feel the initial punch downlow harder.. its less smooth, more aggressive now at full boost.

ill keep giving some feedback on the setup, because i know theres lots of folks who like my setup and have similar setups. i should have the clutch slave cylinder back in by tuesday. its been around 55-60f today, so we are getting really good weather for this time of year.

any more questions feel free to ask.

 

Ok i finally got the car out in 38f weather.. its a handful on cold streets that's all i know. i was focusing on the water pressure gauge and did a 2nd gear pull and didn't realize the car was sideways until i lifted off the gas pedal and car instantly notched itself back in place.. scared the crap out of me.

i keep forgetting i have a machine i need to respect or it will hurt me.. the car in these temps spins 2nd gear from any mph on any road.. instant tire spin it feels ridiculous.

this setup is so fun.. and yet so dangerous.. and its still not even on that high of boost.. im afraid to turn it up i may end up hurting myself.

here the last 3 pulls i did.. the red is the first pull where the cars the coldest the others are after beating on it a bit. i guess it heatsoaked a bit..



and here is the boost plot of the red line:



now the question is -

how efficient can i make the car.. ams f1i and tubular manifold and maybe a bf 272 cam, since it outperforms the kelford.. i bet there's quite a bit more on the table without touching boost.

the funny thing is, the car will make more power running directly off the wga because it will hold 30lb till redline vs the mbc taper uptop dropping 2psi shy of the wga. i refuse to switch back to a 3 port, it makes the crossover feel to smooth downlow.. i may test with the hybrid setup next.. would be nice to hold around 32 uptop .. that would be another 30-40hp more without making silly tq downlow and still benefiting from the mbc spool / wastegate control.

 

Looks great. I can't wait to get my car setup done. You pretty much have the exact build that I want.

 

took the car to the track on street tires and FULL interior.. not even the back seat off.. and it went 11.226 @ 131.72

i was picking up 36mph in the 2nd half.. track condition was garbage.

 

Wow 131.7 you were rolling, get some good sticky rubber and you have yourself a mid/low 10 sec car great work my friend...

 

nice! 34psi? What was the 60' on the street tires?