That's why most people say this "You get what you paid for".

 

I've tuned many cars, I know that you can't run 12.5 on 93...

Your facts....
I'll leave #1 alone since we have beaten it like a dead horse.
#2 There were no boost leaks, car was BLT before and during tune
#3 You don't have the logs I have in front of you, I am making decisions based on looking at my logs and the maps in the tune
#4 I know the car is under powered for the mods I should be making about 25 hp more and now that the setup is flowing better, it will make that
#5 People on here don't read, they simply post, I have to defend things I've made explanations to and it gets old.
#6 I've tuned many cars, so I'm not worried about tuning this one.

I know everyone on here has my logs in front of them and has worked on my car, but I'm giving you guys the facts of looking at logs, instead of a computer screen.

 

Turbos don't make power, setups do. You can't just compare what turbo is on the car, you have to look at how that turbo works in the setup. I have fixed some choking points in my setup and the car will sit in that power range once I go through the tune.

 

I basely have the almost the same setup as yours.

BC 272 Cams
Wally
1000cc Injectors
TBE
ATP GT3071R
Custom licp
upper icp
eBay intercooler
speed density

that's pretty much it of mods I have on mine. I'm pretty sure you'll get up there with a nice tune. Turbo does make the power.

 

I went out and did some tuning tonight and here is what I came away with...



I have to pull a little timing in the midrange, as there is a little bit of knock, but goes away fairly quick. I started seeing quite a few police cars, so I thought it would be better to continue this at a later date. Not bad, considering nearly everyone in this thread said I had no idea what I was doing and the IC wasn't the problem. The tune wasn't that bad, and all I had to do was touch up a few areas and run it a little lean. AFRs are at 11.0 most of the rev range and 10.8 by redline. I think power wise, it is not going to make much more, but I do want to have 0 knock through out the rev range so there is a little bit of work left.

 

This sounds about right. You should really get it on a dyno and see the actual number what the car will put out.

 

where would you find one of those

 

Locally?

 

Actually let me clarify a few things, I know you think your knowledgable, but a 10.4 will foul plugs sooner, and that will be due to an overly rich mixture which will create excessive carbon buildup and blacken up your plugs thus misfires etc. Secondly target afrs and actual afrs are very different. If are cars ran consistently a 9.0:1 afr everytime one of us went wot we would be shooting black smoke all up on the car behind us like a diesel truck and basically gagging the driver if his windows are down. If your gonna tune your car, for your safety and safety of your pocketbook, do some research. Go onto the advanced thread where you can learn to tune and read dont post just read, read as much as you can. I have a feeling your possibly gonna run it overly rich too much, and wash the cylinder walls down with excess fuel which can create issues in itself. But on a good note im glad you got that ic off, I run there radiator, but after 300 hp a 3" is really limiting your hp potential unless your running e85.

 

I under guessed on the weight and used a higher smoothing number to help deflate the numbers. I have no fear that this car will make those same numbers on a DynoJet in my area, but to me its not worth the $100 for 3 pulls. There is a noticable difference from last Saturday when I did the IC install and how it was pulling last night. The power is definitely there.

I know the difference between what AFR the car runs at and its target AFR, as well as how the car uses cells around which cell its reading to help calculate the AFR. This isn't the first car I've tuned and definitely not the first Evo I have tuned. You are correct in saying that a richer AFR will foul out plugs sooner, but you are exaggerating on how bad it truly is... After 2500 miles on the "to rich tune" the plugs didn't look bad at all. The only way you would see a problem is going WOT for long periods of time (such as laping around a road course or something like that), short spurts aren't going to kill you with a 10.4 AFR. Stock Evos are hitting AFRs much more rich than 10.4, so I will stick to my point that if 10.4 would kill my car, then a stock Evo won't have a standing chance. Hell, my old Caliber SRT4, was in the 9 AFR range stock and yes there was black smoke, but the car would have never blown up due to the factory tune and the plugs never came out looking horrible.

Clearly, you didn't read a couple posts up where I posted the new Virtual Dyno and said the AFRs are now at 11.0 for most the rev range and hit 10.8 up top. There is still a bit of fine tuning left and I do want to lean it out a bit more, but it is making a considerable amount of power more than it was a week or a month ago, so clearly this is a large step in the right direction.

 

i just did a street tune on my evo viii with a gt3076r with internal wastegate. I made 389hp. But my cel flash like crazy. We just tune it again. But still knock. Maybe u can tell me if ur car does the same. I have wisco 8.3:1. Manley rod,bc cam280, bc valve spring retainer, cop kit ignition,880 cc precision injector, fuel rail n fuel pressure regulator @ 42-43psi,injen piping, 3" intercooler, oil cooler, air density kit( take off the MAF), block off plate, eliminate egr,act clutch, 3" catback exhaust,3" intake,aem wideband n true boost, map 4bar. I think that all of it. Afr is at 11.5@5500rpm then lean to 12.5@7500rpm. But with that setup, it make my cel reads knocking sometimes on all the gears. Sometimes it knock on 1st n 2nd, other times it knock on 3rd n 4th. I have set my cam on the intake side 4 degree retard n my exhaust side 1 degree retard. So anyone can help me what am i doing wrong????? Pm me please

 

You should not lean the car out as RPM's increase, you should do the opposite. You might be running too lean.

Honestly, the more important thing would be your boost profile and even more importantly your timing curve. You might have too much timing at peak torque. It all depends on where you are getting knock.

 

Switch to e85 it will bump you 50 horse

 

I would have to get new injectors, rescale and what not to switch to E85 and to be completely honest, the car is a blast to drive right now. There are no more issues with heat soak thanks to the new IC! I know everyone in this thread said I was crazy and have no idea what I was doing, but today was 80*+ and they car had no issues after a few WOT pulls, the Mishimoto would heat soak after a couple gears with the 30R.

 

Nevermind.............everyone has said what I said and I see it's not going over well! haha