2.1L from SBR arrived...Pics
The 2.1 is not new to the community. The old school DSM guys used the 2.1. It is simply a destroked 2.4 block. The advantage is you get your displacement from the bore size vice the stroke length. You ask why this is better? What limits the engine is with a longer stroke you are concerned about the piston travel in FPM, feet per minute. With the 2.1 the piston ahs a shorter stroke so your FPM is lower than the 2.0 and you can rev it a lot higher.
Originally Posted by althemean
stock....for now. I just heard some rumors of a new turbo that FP is working on....by the time this project pans out they might have a better bolt-on replacement who knows. If not, once the motor is broken in I may just go with the TME.
Originally Posted by Rez90
here's a question. and i know everyeone is going to tell me to search.......but if someone would answer me i would greatly appreciate it.
Whats the reason for a 2.1? you know...vs say a built 2.0 or a 2.3.......
Whats the reason for a 2.1? you know...vs say a built 2.0 or a 2.3.......
Once again....not trying to offend. But that was covered on the very first page of this thread on posts 10 and 12. READ CLOSER or try reading the WHOLE thread first.
Originally Posted by althemean
another question. My head took some damage on the #4 cylinder combustion chamber. One of the intake valves had the rocker arm come off the valve stem/spring. I have no idea how that happened. I was thinking that I should reman the head but the price is high. Is it necessary to replace the valve guides? Or should I just go with new springs (obviously for the JUN cams) with new valves and seals? I dont think the valve is bent or made any contact with the piston. Can I get away with just replaceing the moving parts (which I can do myself)
Now with that being said, if the rocker just "fell off" there would be NO combustion chamber damage because the valve would just stay closed and it would still have the other intake valve to run(probably poorly, but still run).
So what you should do is look closely at the valves, piston, guides.....something is wrong.(bent valve, hung in guide)....in extreme cases I've seen a rod bearing have so much clearance that the piston hit the head, anyway it definately does not happen for no reason.
hope my 2cents helps
-mike
btw nice engine!
I cant for the life figure out how it happened. The damage I am refering to is minor nicks from the piston as it came apart. I havent had the time (nor the tooling) to disassemble the head yet (it is off the engine I need a valve spring compressor). As of now I do not know if the valve is bent or not. I think I posted pics of the everything in a thread I started when the engine blew back in April. Searching under my name should show that thread if you are really interested in seeing the pics. Unless the timing belt slipped a tooth..I dont see how the parts could have made contact as the engine let go at around 3500-4k RPM. My AFR gauge showed a lean condition (I suspect the fuel pump) right before this happened. The crown of the piston broke off on the intake side so maybe they did contact. It is so hard to tell.
Originally Posted by kjewer1
This HAS to get the award for the most poorly constructed longest run-on sentence in the history of the English language. 

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