fpevo green dyno numbers
Thats the feeling I've been getting obviously they make more power, the question is costworth or gsc, but I know thats been debated to death, I just want to know if valves, springs and headstuds are that necessary, I am assuming they will be
Stock Mitsu valves are fine. Stock valve springs are fine with the GSC´s, HKS´s, and Cosworths(I think). ARP studs shouldn´t be necessary either, under 26-28 PSI, with the Green. You could do the studs however, as a precautionary measure.
I don't know why you'd need new valves at all.
i hear good things about GSC's. and cosworth's are a little salty considering i haven't seen anyone make a substantial amount more power with them to justify the price. stock springs should be fine as long as your not running excessive rpm.
The GSC's are great. If you are looking at a stock to mild turbo upgrade go with the S1's. Also if you ever want to run high boost, it's an easy time to install studs. It's best to do all the mods at once, less labor, one tune. But if you want to go in steps get the cams now, and do the fmic if you replace the turbo.
2200 is too high.
Cams 5-600, studs ~100, labor 2-300.
But if 2200 is good for you, alky~500 will get you close.
2200 is too high.
Cams 5-600, studs ~100, labor 2-300.
But if 2200 is good for you, alky~500 will get you close.
wow this is for rookiepains
look at my sig iam 365hp/358tq on basic bolt on's and on 93pump in 98.9 degree heat thats what the temp says on my dyno sheet
your numbers seem low....
should went to ivey!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
look at my sig iam 365hp/358tq on basic bolt on's and on 93pump in 98.9 degree heat thats what the temp says on my dyno sheet
your numbers seem low....
should went to ivey!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am probably going to go with the gsc 1's and tune after all of my research, they just sound like the right cams for me. I think I will do headstuds as a precaution because I may eventually do meth so might as well install the headstuds while they are at it because I'm probably gonna be running higher boost in the future. P.S just ordered work dp and test pipe, they look sexy as hell, but back on topic.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't you still have driveability issues whether on a stand alone or not with some of these BOV's?
(not including idle, stalling, etc..)
Example:
My car drove like crap with the HKS ssq (surging, flutter, etc..) while on the flash and with the EMS. (I put it on once to scare small children)
My car drove well with the Forge RS on a flash and it still drives well on the EMS.
(not including idle, stalling, etc..)
Example:
My car drove like crap with the HKS ssq (surging, flutter, etc..) while on the flash and with the EMS. (I put it on once to scare small children)
My car drove well with the Forge RS on a flash and it still drives well on the EMS.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't you still have driveability issues whether on a stand alone or not with some of these BOV's?
(not including idle, stalling, etc..)
Example:
My car drove like crap with the HKS ssq (surging, flutter, etc..) while on the flash and with the EMS. (I put it on once to scare small children)
My car drove well with the Forge RS on a flash and it still drives well on the EMS.
(not including idle, stalling, etc..)
Example:
My car drove like crap with the HKS ssq (surging, flutter, etc..) while on the flash and with the EMS. (I put it on once to scare small children)
My car drove well with the Forge RS on a flash and it still drives well on the EMS.
It depends on the BOV really. For instance, I dont run EMS, I have the Tial. I have to run a stiff spring which causes surging/bucking sometimes. If I ran EMS, I could run a softer spring and get rid of the bucking. However, if I purchase the EMS and keep my current spring in there, nothing will really change driveability wise.








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