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fpevo green dyno numbers

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Old May 16, 2007 | 03:49 PM
  #736  
Barrett006@aol.'s Avatar
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Thats the feeling I've been getting obviously they make more power, the question is costworth or gsc, but I know thats been debated to death, I just want to know if valves, springs and headstuds are that necessary, I am assuming they will be
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Old May 16, 2007 | 04:07 PM
  #737  
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Originally Posted by Barrett006@aol.
Thats the feeling I've been getting obviously they make more power, the question is costworth or gsc, but I know thats been debated to death, I just want to know if valves, springs and headstuds are that necessary, I am assuming they will be
Stock Mitsu valves are fine. Stock valve springs are fine with the GSC´s, HKS´s, and Cosworths(I think). ARP studs shouldn´t be necessary either, under 26-28 PSI, with the Green. You could do the studs however, as a precautionary measure.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 05:45 PM
  #738  
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Originally Posted by Barrett006@aol.
also is it a required o have headstuds, valves and springs when installing cams or just a precaution, i dont know much about cams... with my tune, gsc cams , headstuds valves and springs its 2200$ out the door, sounds decent to me...
Depends on the cams, I'd get the headstuds but a mild set of 264/264 or 272/272s you could live without the springs.

I don't know why you'd need new valves at all.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 07:13 PM
  #739  
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i hear good things about GSC's. and cosworth's are a little salty considering i haven't seen anyone make a substantial amount more power with them to justify the price. stock springs should be fine as long as your not running excessive rpm.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 08:01 PM
  #740  
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The GSC's are great. If you are looking at a stock to mild turbo upgrade go with the S1's. Also if you ever want to run high boost, it's an easy time to install studs. It's best to do all the mods at once, less labor, one tune. But if you want to go in steps get the cams now, and do the fmic if you replace the turbo.

2200 is too high.
Cams 5-600, studs ~100, labor 2-300.
But if 2200 is good for you, alky~500 will get you close.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 08:13 PM
  #741  
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From: monroe ny
here are my #s





Last edited by ROOKIEPAINS; May 16, 2007 at 08:18 PM. Reason: resize
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Old May 16, 2007 | 08:22 PM
  #742  
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From: monroe ny
10

Last edited by ROOKIEPAINS; May 16, 2007 at 08:25 PM.
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Old May 16, 2007 | 09:35 PM
  #743  
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wow this is for rookiepains

look at my sig iam 365hp/358tq on basic bolt on's and on 93pump in 98.9 degree heat thats what the temp says on my dyno sheet

your numbers seem low....

should went to ivey!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old May 16, 2007 | 11:01 PM
  #744  
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I am probably going to go with the gsc 1's and tune after all of my research, they just sound like the right cams for me. I think I will do headstuds as a precaution because I may eventually do meth so might as well install the headstuds while they are at it because I'm probably gonna be running higher boost in the future. P.S just ordered work dp and test pipe, they look sexy as hell, but back on topic.
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Old May 17, 2007 | 03:44 AM
  #745  
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ROOKIEPAINS, do all your of your dyno pulls start at 4200 rpm?
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Old May 17, 2007 | 05:41 AM
  #746  
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Nice.
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Old May 17, 2007 | 09:33 AM
  #747  
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Originally Posted by matt55
Oh yeah , and re- greased it and I sent it back and got a new one . Same stuff each time .
But it did sound cooler the the stock IX bov .
I was going to run the Tial on my car, but I really don't want to deal with the surging issues
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Old May 17, 2007 | 09:54 AM
  #748  
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Yeah I dont reccomend Tial unless you have EMS.
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Old May 17, 2007 | 11:41 AM
  #749  
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From: OH
Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't you still have driveability issues whether on a stand alone or not with some of these BOV's?

(not including idle, stalling, etc..)

Example:

My car drove like crap with the HKS ssq (surging, flutter, etc..) while on the flash and with the EMS. (I put it on once to scare small children)

My car drove well with the Forge RS on a flash and it still drives well on the EMS.
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Old May 17, 2007 | 11:54 AM
  #750  
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Originally Posted by dadriva
Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't you still have driveability issues whether on a stand alone or not with some of these BOV's?

(not including idle, stalling, etc..)

Example:

My car drove like crap with the HKS ssq (surging, flutter, etc..) while on the flash and with the EMS. (I put it on once to scare small children)

My car drove well with the Forge RS on a flash and it still drives well on the EMS.

It depends on the BOV really. For instance, I dont run EMS, I have the Tial. I have to run a stiff spring which causes surging/bucking sometimes. If I ran EMS, I could run a softer spring and get rid of the bucking. However, if I purchase the EMS and keep my current spring in there, nothing will really change driveability wise.
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