David, did that high output alternator require you to modify the wiring harness any??? My alternator just went kapoot and I'm looking for a new one and am thinking about getting a high output one. Also, would it require a retune since it puts out higher voltage??? I was tuned on the AEM EMS by you a few months ago and don't really want to retune unless its necessary.

 

That is really good to hear about the coating . I just ordered an HTA with the coated header. Keep up the good work Dave.

 

I'll see what I can do for a video for you guys.

 

The wire that runs from the alternator to the battery needs to be upgraded. I don't think you'll need a retune by changing the alternator.

 

I wouldn't think you would, if you latencies are correct.

The latencies just match the difference in time it takes for the injector to operate at the different Voltages. If they're correct, no adjustments need to be made, even if it runs a different voltage at idle or WOT.

 

Uh, yeah, thanks steadly2004..................I've tuned a few cars....

 

haha. wow. glad to hear your back in business david.

 

Wow. that mani looks real nice. even without a/c and a small rad. lol

 

yea that manifold is a one of a kind quality piece.

 

Sorry... I wan't saying it for you. Obviously you know that, but the other guy didn't and I was just trying to help him understand why. I should have quoted the other dude.

 

cool, thanks for lettin me know

 

Bowdown to Dave....

 

Just so we're clear, the reason I said, "I don't THINK, you'll need a retune" is because IF the battery offsets and such are correct he'll be fine. I probably should have been more specific too.

 

Alright, just got off the dyno.

First, yes, the alternator is going to require a re-tune. My car was WAY off, from idle to 9,000 rpm. The good news is my injectors were maxed out at peak torque before, now they aren't even close.

Second, last time I dyno'd it was cold. I run the dyno uncorrected. So this is not a good "back to back" test like I usually do. Last time on the dyno the car had a peak AIT 84 degrees, today it peaked at 100 degrees. It's 60 degrees out today, last time it was probably high 30's.

Third, I want to list what exactly was changed in the combination:

180 amp alternator (could put more load on the engine-hard to say for sure)
Fresh 2 liter, standard bore shortblock with aluminum rods
"Equal length" header
Tial .82 turbine housing
3" 02 housing

The car before was the same 2 liter, identical other than rods. The header before was the Full Race. The turbine housing before was the .82 Garrett 4 bolt housing. The 02 housing before was 2.5" for just the bend and then went to 3".

Before I post the dyno sheet. The numbers were 659 whp and 599 ft lbs with the old set up and now they are 631 whp and 568 ft lbs.

Boost was 1.3 psi higher before. I just freaking noticed that but I am too lazy to put the car back on the dyno. That could have made another 15 whp.........Boost at redline was 1.63 psi higher on the old set up too.

Here's the dyno sheet:



I don't like doing tests with multiple changes and doing them on different days. In this case there wasn't much of a choice and since this is all for myself it isn't worth the time to swap the old set up back on and do it all the same day. I have enough information.

Spool up is close. T3 housing 20 psi was at 4523 rpm on the Tial housing 20 psi was 4781 rpm.

I'd say the combinations are fairly close. Given the difference in boost and air temp I'd say they'd be equal on equal days.

Next test is the other T3 header I built with the new T3 housing, if I ever get it.

 

nice numbers still. you always still amaze me.