Another new PUMP gas record, thanks Driven Innovations
Good point Ted it does seem a bit intimidating hearing about patches and scaling and maf conversion stuff. Converse of your point, the only reason I'd like to move to the stock ECU is it's knock control. Which is sort of what drives some of my questions in this thread. Is the lack of knock control in the ECU I use a substantive reason to be jealous of other ECU's? I love Autronic but wish it had knock control.
I went so far as to try the KnockBlock from Link, run into a analog input on the Autronic, and see what I came up with. This was with the KnockBlock connected to the stock knock sensor. I found it did not work well at all... as RPM rise so did noise. Incuced det, and the log seemed to not identify anything abnormal. I think the the KnockBlock was a lot less sophisticated than I thought it would be.
I'd like to see someone come up with a way to use the Stock ECU's knock control system in a small easy to install device with an analog output which can feed into a standalone.
I went so far as to try the KnockBlock from Link, run into a analog input on the Autronic, and see what I came up with. This was with the KnockBlock connected to the stock knock sensor. I found it did not work well at all... as RPM rise so did noise. Incuced det, and the log seemed to not identify anything abnormal. I think the the KnockBlock was a lot less sophisticated than I thought it would be.
I'd like to see someone come up with a way to use the Stock ECU's knock control system in a small easy to install device with an analog output which can feed into a standalone.
It's interesting... there is a lot of faith out there in both AEM's and the stock ECU's knock control. In fact I think many tuners solely rely on these systems to tune a car. IE not use det cans and their ears. Just logs and knock counts.
So... if a tuner is comfortable enough to trust these systems to tune with... why not make the tune quite aggressive and if their is a bad tank of gas, who cares as the knock control system will pick it up just fine.
So... if a tuner is comfortable enough to trust these systems to tune with... why not make the tune quite aggressive and if their is a bad tank of gas, who cares as the knock control system will pick it up just fine.
I am faced with the same dillemma as many who choose to go the standalone route in the end of the day...Big turbo, huge airflow, big injectors. Do I think to go AEM and save the headache of trying to get everything right on the stock ECU? Not at the moment, there are too many developments happening with the stock hardware at a fast rate for me to not follow closely and try the new methods that are being put fourth. In the end I think the faith in the stock KS as well as how knock is interpreted by the AEM and others is based on the success posted by those using these devices ( motors still in one piece ).
Do we see every failure....Obviously not so I guess it comes down to an individual's prefference. Another thing to keep in mind is that a large portion of street cars need to go through OBD2 testing, standalones won't get me through that easy enough for me to justify getting one at the moment.
There is also a misconception that tunes have to have ZERO knock to be good tunes, zero knock means its a conservative tune, and safe, but under varying loads and conditions, knock is inevitable. Its the job of the ECU to properly handle these occasional knock events. This is DIFFERENT than running a tune that knocks severely enough to always rely on the knock sensor to save someone from a bad tune.
This is completely wrong, When you run in to knock you have to pull more timing out than a no knock tune, when it starts to knock unless you pull out enough to stop it the knock will only get worse unit it blows up,
To live on the knock sensor will shorten engine live as it will nibble away at the piston egde/top ring/head gasket, This is fine with a lifed race engine but not correct with a road engine,
A correctly biult/spec'd/mapped engine will only wear out over a extended period of time it will not blow up.
Mark
This is completely wrong, When you run in to knock you have to pull more timing out than a no knock tune, when it starts to knock unless you pull out enough to stop it the knock will only get worse unit it blows up,
To live on the knock sensor will shorten engine live as it will nibble away at the piston egde/top ring/head gasket, This is fine with a lifed race engine but not correct with a road engine,
A correctly biult/spec'd/mapped engine will only wear out over a extended period of time it will not blow up.
Mark
There is also a misconception that tunes have to have ZERO knock to be good tunes, zero knock means its a conservative tune, and safe, but under varying loads and conditions, knock is inevitable. Its the job of the ECU to properly handle these occasional knock events. This is DIFFERENT than running a tune that knocks severely enough to always rely on the knock sensor to save someone from a bad tune.
This is completely wrong, When you run in to knock you have to pull more timing out than a no knock tune, when it starts to knock unless you pull out enough to stop it the knock will only get worse unit it blows up,
To live on the knock sensor will shorten engine live as it will nibble away at the piston egde/top ring/head gasket, This is fine with a lifed race engine but not correct with a road engine,
A correctly biult/spec'd/mapped engine will only wear out over a extended period of time it will not blow up.
Mark
This is completely wrong, When you run in to knock you have to pull more timing out than a no knock tune, when it starts to knock unless you pull out enough to stop it the knock will only get worse unit it blows up,
To live on the knock sensor will shorten engine live as it will nibble away at the piston egde/top ring/head gasket, This is fine with a lifed race engine but not correct with a road engine,
A correctly biult/spec'd/mapped engine will only wear out over a extended period of time it will not blow up.
Mark
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obviously engines can survive for very long periods of time with extremely high knock counts...I can't count how many 91 octane modded cars came to me with 20 counts of knock and apparently had been that way for years.
True tuning for 0 counts of knock is likely going to be a conservative tune but I choose to tune for little to no knock to make the car consistent between runs also. If you're knocking in each run the ecu is pulling timing for you so you might as well pull the timing to keep that from happening and have a more consistent car.
True tuning for 0 counts of knock is likely going to be a conservative tune but I choose to tune for little to no knock to make the car consistent between runs also. If you're knocking in each run the ecu is pulling timing for you so you might as well pull the timing to keep that from happening and have a more consistent car.
Its all in how you set up the ecu.
I have been tuning on 90 octane and 91 octane all over the west and its often very difficult to get those cars to run properly.
Al
sorry but your wrong.
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m..._Code=Turbo-FP
Why would you like the idea of pulling the WG off the collector more than the turbine housing out of curiosity. The 35HTA from Forced Performance does work well, it's an option that we can offer also. I've seen about 25whp gain over a standard 35R with it, but it still won't make the peak power a 37R will. The FP 35HTA does spool very nicely though.



