cam gear settings
Hi Ted,
I am doing a fresh build 2.3l 6466 pte... I am using HKS gears from my last setup which are set at zero, and now running gsc s3 cams.. I can not for the life of me figure out why I can't get the cam gears to TDC. I have the cam gear tool, notches are matched up there...exhaust side is almost spot on TDC but intake side is way off


I am doing a fresh build 2.3l 6466 pte... I am using HKS gears from my last setup which are set at zero, and now running gsc s3 cams.. I can not for the life of me figure out why I can't get the cam gears to TDC. I have the cam gear tool, notches are matched up there...exhaust side is almost spot on TDC but intake side is way off


See my response in your discussion:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ng-issues.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ng-issues.html
2.4 build with GSC S3
Ok, I was thinking you had HKS cams, probably because I've been giving a lot of cam timing advice and confused you with another setup. Sorry about that. In your case, with GSC S2 and what you want out of it, I would try -1/-2 and see what that does for you. That will spool a little quicker and give it more pop in the midrange.
I also have 2.4 block build in my car and next days I will put GSC S3 cams and springs. My question is should I follow your advice for S2 on page 15 with -1/-2 instead of zero it -3/-3 or for S3 I should set it to different angle?
Thanks in advance. Regards from Bulgaria
For a 2.4 block, the -1/-2 suggestion is with respect to true zero. That means the cams must be set to the correct zero first. Due to the effect of the taller 2.4 block on the factory timing marks, that means the cams need to be adjusted as per what others have recommended to reach true zero, then move them -1/-2 from that position.
Personally, I would rather be at a beach on the Black Sea with a bottle of wine than talking about 2.4 cam settings, but that is your decision.
Personally, I would rather be at a beach on the Black Sea with a bottle of wine than talking about 2.4 cam settings, but that is your decision.
For a 2.4 block, the -1/-2 suggestion is with respect to true zero. That means the cams must be set to the correct zero first. Due to the effect of the taller 2.4 block on the factory timing marks, that means the cams need to be adjusted as per what others have recommended to reach true zero, then move them -1/-2 from that position.

Best Regards, Paul.
HI,
what setting do you recommend for a stock evo 4 engine and turbo (bolt on's and tune) with Brian crower stage 4 cams uograded springs and aem cam gears?
In the future car will have a bug turbo, but nor for now.
Thanks for your reply
what setting do you recommend for a stock evo 4 engine and turbo (bolt on's and tune) with Brian crower stage 4 cams uograded springs and aem cam gears?
In the future car will have a bug turbo, but nor for now.
Thanks for your reply
One cannot give an accurate answer to this question because AMS' testing revealed that the timing of BC cams does not match the cam card. That means, we do not know where true '0' is with these cams. Your best option is a different set of cams (e.g. GSC).
MIVEC is a table that starts the intake cam at full retard, and allows the user to program the amount of advance according to operational conditions. The best strategy for MIVEC tuning is to start the cams at a relatively wide lobe separation angle, tighten it through peak torque, then widen it again, but that's all the detail I can provide from where I sit.
Car feels good, power delivery seems very linear, it spools really quick and stays there like a flat powerband.
I would like to get some more top end, play a little with the cams to see what I like better, so what setting should I try for more top end? retard another degree?
Thanks for you reply







