Witch size block for hta37
It really depends on what you want to do with the car. A 2.3 w/ HTA 37r is still a potent street car. I drove a friends AMS 2.3 w/ HTA 37r and it got full boost around 4300 or so and pulled til 7500 (thats where I stopped at least
) and it felt like it could have kept on going. If you want it to be a drag car go with a built 2.0 or even a 2.1 would be good for a little extra displacement and torque and rev the crap out of it.
) and it felt like it could have kept on going. If you want it to be a drag car go with a built 2.0 or even a 2.1 would be good for a little extra displacement and torque and rev the crap out of it.
Well I'm waiting on my twin scroll header. I've got a built 2.1 ltr, with BR\Indy's V2 intake and BR cams, and FPs 88HTA. I hope to drive it in two weeks. Hopefully I'll see full boost sooner than 5000. I maybe asking too much but we'll see.
There is no reason to spin the motor higher than the optimum shift point, which is determined by the torque curve. For factory turbos through an FP Green, this is usually around 8000rpm. Spinning it harder is a senseless activity that makes the car go slower, significantly accelerates wear, and significantly increases the chance that something will fail - oftentimes catastrophically.
There is no reason to spin the motor higher than the optimum shift point, which is determined by the torque curve. For factory turbos through an FP Green, this is usually around 8000rpm. Spinning it harder is a senseless activity that makes the car go slower, significantly accelerates wear, and significantly increases the chance that something will fail - oftentimes catastrophically.
So...if i wanted the HTA 37R instead of the 35R i could keep the 2.0L? Would it be better to go to a 2.1L? Im not trying to set any records..im building a street/drag monster..if that makes any sense..ill do more street driving than track driving so im not sure what would be better....i also go to car shows but will go to the track whenever my friends go.... not trying to jack the thread but any advice for my situation?
My spool is fast for a turbo this size, but I have a twinscroll setup, so you can't go by my results . . . unless of course, you were going twinscroll.
Then use the displacement/configuration that by far the most street/drag 'monsters' use. You already know the answer to your own question.
There is no reason to spin the motor higher than the optimum shift point, which is determined by the torque curve. For factory turbos through an FP Green, this is usually around 8000rpm. Spinning it harder is a senseless activity that makes the car go slower, significantly accelerates wear, and significantly increases the chance that something will fail - oftentimes catastrophically.
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420a-t
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Oct 17, 2011 04:44 PM








