Sign me up for one I'm sure Mike at AWD would buy one also. An 800 WHP 2200# evo would be ridiculous....

 

I already have something in the works..

 

Subscribed

 

cool mike. promise to keep me posted. either through pm or here. are your goals for 100% street able and lightweight or is this a drag only part your making??? i would personally love a 100%street able part but be as light as possible. as for all that stuff Ivan said. im also interested in that but thats another story. seems his thoughts are to add other parts and go extreme with this witch im also down for. i just need to learn wtf he is saying. HAHAH

 

+1

 

I will try to explain where I am coming from.

Lowering the car is important for many reasons for both road racing and drag racing. Lower center of gravity and aero advantages are at the top of the list. The issue with lowering the car is: you have just messed up your suspension geometry.

Your caster, camber and tow all change as the suspension moves through its travel. This is factory engineered. It is supposed to change to help the car turn and maintain tire contact with the road. Lowering the car changes all this as your suspension is now starting its travel in an area of the camber / tow curve that was supposed to be designated for turning. You have also changed your roll center which changes how side loads affect the suspension. The more you lower the car, the further outside factory specs you get.

The best way to lower the car and keep the factory engineered suspension geometry is to move the inboard suspension points.

Here is a quick MS Paint drawing to show visually what I am talking about. This depicts what happens to the front control arm in a lowered car.



As you can see, moving the inboard suspension point up after lowering positions the control arm as it was designed by the factory.


On both the 8/9 and X, the front suspension mounting points are on the subframe. This makes keeping factory suspension geometry easy when moving them up.

When you get to the rear subframes, the 8/9 have a control arm mounted to the body in addition to the trailing arm. This makes keeping factory suspension impossible without moving the point on the body.

The X rear suspension has all mounting points on the subframe with the exception of the trailing arm. This makes it much easier to move suspension points.

I know this doesn't mean much to those that are solely interested in going straight but if we are going to put the effort into building subframes, it makes sense to try to cover all bases.

While on the subject of drag racing, there would be a benefit in eliminating the factory camber curve. The issue is more so in the rear of the Evo as the front camber does not change much. In the rear of the car, camber changes during a launch generally pull the outside of the tires off the ground limiting traction. This is especially prevalent when using stiff sidewall radials over soft sidewall slicks. The way to eliminate the camber curve is to run more equal length control arms. Obviously a rear subframe for drag racing would differ from one for road racing.

Sorry this got so long and thanks to anybody that read the whole reply. Basically, I am interested in hearing what is important to people (besides weight reduction) when it comes to a custom tubular subframe.

 

Ivan:

I think you hit the nail on the head. Really although i personally would only be interested in a drag setup. From a business point of view the more you can do to the same piece to cover all your basis the better. For drag guys that maybe dont need extra mounting points or whatever maybe you can just have brackets cut off depending on what they are asking for.

Anyway wish you were closer seems you know your stuff with suspension setup. I could really use you for next season.

And Mike @ AWD please keep us posted on your findings also. I believe about a year ago NRGTech made something for a 3000GT and had pictures posted around here somewhere.

Chris

EDIT: Here is a link to a Subframe NRGTech made for a 3000GT. From what i hear they are building a front and rear subframe for a EVO as we speak.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/we...-subframe.html

 

Really excited to see where this thread goes, I was talking about this last night before i saw the thread

 

I think on an Evo, lowering the motor may be as easy as using offset motor mount bushings. This is something we have been looking at.

Justin and I are currently working with the factory subframes on the Evo X. By cutting down the points on the subframe where it attaches to the body, we are essentially moving all of the factory suspension points up. This will aid in keeping a lowered car closer to factory geometry.

Unfortunately, moving the front subframe up is reducing clearance and causing fitment issues with the rack to the body, rack to the transfer case and subframe to engine, trans and transfer case, etc.... I do not see an issue that cant be resolved at this point, but plans on dropping the motor lower in the engine compartment have been suspended. We may be able to lower the motor with a custom tubular subframe in the future.

 

removing weight and fixing the front supspension geometry at the same time would be perfect, definetely be in on that

 

This is interesting.

*Dumb question:
would this void you insurance claim incase of accident? I guess....

but interested here so count me in!

 

Ivan thanks for the reply. Well said and under stud . I'm interested to see where this go's

 

i am highly interested and would definitaly buy this immediately.

interested in the weight reduction and the suspension geometry fixing.

evodan2004,

if you managed to get this done please send me a pm.

thanks for AMS and AWD for considering this.

 

any more info out there?

 

anyone?