evo 8 tubular k member.. whos making one
I have a question about the statement from Ivan. If you are lowering the car via points on the k member, how are you going to address the rear ride height. I personally would rather have stock height and use my coil overs to adjust ride height.
I have to agree that weight savings would not be the primary benefit. Clutch jobs and transfer case removal would be easier for sure..... but being able to change around suspension geometry would be the main reason IMO. Combined with some chromoly adjustable suspension arms, it would be a wicked combo but quite cost prohibitive.
There are are the cro-mo adjustable arms. $1700 a set. I have the Nagisa rear bits, and the fronts will be in this spring. I'd buy a front tubular subframe if it came in at or under that price-point. . .
Building the first one and making the jig would be the expensive part. Let's say you can work that cost into the first 10 units (I bet you can sell 10 the first year) then it shouldn't be THAT expensive. . .
For now, I'd say lighter weight and easier accessability to the underside of the car would be my top "plusses" for a mod like this.
Dave
Ivan, how about a dry sump setup + tubular K member! Lower the engine, maybe push it back a little, fix the suspension geometry...maybe that HKS Evo craziness would be closer to the common mans grasp! weight is always nice to lose, but most of us could lose 20lbs for free! Just jog a little. lol
At least the initial investiment for a Sub-Frame wouldn't be all that much, I believe last time I checked a Sub-Frame was a touch less than $400 from Mitsubishiparts.net. (Shipping might suck, but......)
Someone/Some vendor could pick up an OEM sub-frame for a very reasonable price and make their jig off that. Heck, if I had $400 right now (Don't because I just tore my clutch up and put in a Tilton) I would buy one and start to fabricate it up. If our stock Sub-frame was replaced with a tubular, maintenance would become pretty rediculously easy as it would clear up ton's of space on the rear bottom of the engine area. Plus, what would also be nice is to replace the parts of the member that have the weld nuts on the inside of the frame. After my car living through three Buffalo, NY winters, lets just say I had to improvise when getting the bolts out/and back in when they siezed up due to the salt & rust.
I would pick one up just because of how much easier the car would be to work on.
Someone/Some vendor could pick up an OEM sub-frame for a very reasonable price and make their jig off that. Heck, if I had $400 right now (Don't because I just tore my clutch up and put in a Tilton) I would buy one and start to fabricate it up. If our stock Sub-frame was replaced with a tubular, maintenance would become pretty rediculously easy as it would clear up ton's of space on the rear bottom of the engine area. Plus, what would also be nice is to replace the parts of the member that have the weld nuts on the inside of the frame. After my car living through three Buffalo, NY winters, lets just say I had to improvise when getting the bolts out/and back in when they siezed up due to the salt & rust.
I would pick one up just because of how much easier the car would be to work on.









