So then it would be a no go on a previous post's recommendation to put it on the dash? I have another car with a remote battery and the cutoff switch is between the seats. Though the car has no top...

 

Also... what do you guys use to crimp a 1 or 0 gauge wire terminal to the wire? Or are the terminals in the kits a bolt or set screw style?

 

In the past, I've used welding cable and the terminals made for welding cable. What I'll do is heat up the terminal end with a propane torch until I can melt a small pool of solder into it, then I push the cable into it.

 

If you want to crimp, there are tools out there like this one: http://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com...f7c5942f1cd932

 

My cutoff is located behind the driver side tail light because it has to be accessible from outside the car I just pull the light each time only 2 screws ill post up a pic of my relocation later

 

on my list

 

if you want wire all over your engine bay and interior trim that barely fits then thats fine

 

then the connection is hidden under the air intake pipe


but.. if you really want a super clean wire tuck look, id advise to run it under the car so you can rerun the stock harness down towards where the steering rack is so its ran behind everything and out of visual sight no matter what.

for now im good where mine is ran, but the way i have it pictured where it runs through the fender area and out where the fuse box area is, you have no choice but to have a big harness running across the top of your transmission. (its like this stock also btw)

 

I am ready to bite the bullet on this (just the relocate kit and fuse, I will worry about the cutoff later as I do not plan on racing/ tracking anymore this year). I am going with the Taylor kit from Summit. There are a ton of versions, which have you guys purchased? Did it come with a precrimped negative lead? Thanks!

 

I really like that kill switch setup, very nice...But don't most tracks require your tail lights to be on/working to race? So wouldn't you need to have both tail lights in or no??

 

FWIW for those looking at Taylor Kits to use with the stock battery, you need the standard relocation kit, you can't use the 200 or 300 series boxes as they are too small for the stock Mitsubishi battery. I went with the standard 1awg setup and a Tsunami 180amp breaker.

 

I have started another project on the evo as part of the rebuild process. One thing I notice with many guys who relocate their batteries, and is even in the how to, was just to cover up the fuse box that was over the oem pos cable.

Wanting something more clean I started a project to improve on my battery relocation and am taking lots of pics to maybe give you guys ideas, and maybe get some feedback/input/criticism.

I am about 60% finished and will start a new thread for it. One thing I did was upgrade the 2 gauge power cable to a higher quality 0 gauge cable. I also am relocating the battery pos fuse box along with cleaning up some of the wiring. There is a redundant amount of wiring that was needed when the battery was in the stock location but now that my battery is relocated to the trunk it can be cleaned up.

Fwiw, The 15ft of Stinger Pro series 0 gauge was not much heavier than the 15ft. of 2 gauge I orignially bought from Napa. The Napa stuff did its job but I was not happy with how unbendable that stuff was.

 

Don't know about road races but 1/4 mile only requires 1working brake/taillight to be in regs