My Battery Relocation
Anybody put their car on scales before they placed there battery? If I was to do a trunk relocation I would want to use the battery to balance the rear corner weight. One side has to be lighter then the other.
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Evolving Member
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you need a fuse or circuit breaker close to the battery. the reason is if that long cable going to the front rubs thru its insulation under the car, the fuse under the hood is on the wrong end of all the havoc. nothing will stop the chaos until the battery explodes. i would imagine anything over 100 amps would do just fine.
i wrapped mine in split loom tubing and ran it along with the fuel lines. its very secure and safe.
Has anyone experienced any energy loss after relocating the battery to the trunk and if so, how much is considered normal? I relocated my battery to the trunk over the weekend and have noticed a drop in cabin voltage from a fairly steady 13.xx to a range of ~12.2 - 12.8 under normal driving. At idle however, the voltage will sometimes dip to ~11.9 and then climb back up to ~12.6 rather quickly. In addition to that, I am also experiencing a weaker crank when starting the motor cold (which I know has been experienced by others).
I am using approximately 192" of 1-gauge cable for the positive and about 20" of 1-gauge for the negative. There is no circuit breaker/fuse installed on the power line as of yet (but I will be installing a 180amp circuit breaker this week). I grounded the negative to a bolt inside the driver-side rear fender well (opposite where the washer fluid sits). The surrounding sheet metal was sanded down to bare metal prior to bolting. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
I am using approximately 192" of 1-gauge cable for the positive and about 20" of 1-gauge for the negative. There is no circuit breaker/fuse installed on the power line as of yet (but I will be installing a 180amp circuit breaker this week). I grounded the negative to a bolt inside the driver-side rear fender well (opposite where the washer fluid sits). The surrounding sheet metal was sanded down to bare metal prior to bolting. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Has anyone experienced any energy loss after relocating the battery to the trunk and if so, how much is considered normal? I relocated my battery to the trunk over the weekend and have noticed a drop in cabin voltage from a fairly steady 13.xx to a range of ~12.2 - 12.8 under normal driving. At idle however, the voltage will sometimes dip to ~11.9 and then climb back up to ~12.6 rather quickly. In addition to that, I am also experiencing a weaker crank when starting the motor cold (which I know has been experienced by others).
I am using approximately 192" of 1-gauge cable for the positive and about 20" of 1-gauge for the negative. There is no circuit breaker/fuse installed on the power line as of yet (but I will be installing a 180amp circuit breaker this week). I grounded the negative to a bolt inside the driver-side rear fender well (opposite where the washer fluid sits). The surrounding sheet metal was sanded down to bare metal prior to bolting. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
I am using approximately 192" of 1-gauge cable for the positive and about 20" of 1-gauge for the negative. There is no circuit breaker/fuse installed on the power line as of yet (but I will be installing a 180amp circuit breaker this week). I grounded the negative to a bolt inside the driver-side rear fender well (opposite where the washer fluid sits). The surrounding sheet metal was sanded down to bare metal prior to bolting. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
i have my battery in the trunk with 1g wire and no problems. unless your battery is weak it has to be a connection. mine is grounded to the strut tower bolt though.
I just did this battery relocation and am about to put a fuse in right after the battery. My question is: What amperage fuse should I be using so that the starter doesn't blow it? I've read that the starter can spike as high as 300 on a very cold day, but is that really necessary? Do any of you guys have issues when it comes to tripping the fuse during startup?
I just did this battery relocation and am about to put a fuse in right after the battery. My question is: What amperage fuse should I be using so that the starter doesn't blow it? I've read that the starter can spike as high as 300 on a very cold day, but is that really necessary? Do any of you guys have issues when it comes to tripping the fuse during startup?
So, basically you guys just ran the positive wire from the trunk to the stock distribution block under the hood and then installed the fuse in the trunk right after the positive terminal off the battery? I just want to make sure before I go cutting the wire.


