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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 02:03 PM
  #46  
Bignel00's Avatar
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From: Boston
Originally Posted by avo3vom
Now that is freakin sweet, that may be my new set up when I need a new battery ( still on stock one). Is that a locking strap holding it down? Fire extinguisher good idea for everyone. I have one stashed there to.
need a how to done
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 02:48 PM
  #47  
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From: WAR EAGLE!
Does someone make a mini-battery box for rear mounted setups?

I'd like to relocate the mini battery to the back end.
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 03:52 PM
  #48  
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From: orlando
nice relocation man!
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 06:33 PM
  #49  
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From: milwaukee, wi
Originally Posted by R/TErnie
Does someone make a mini-battery box for rear mounted setups?

I'd like to relocate the mini battery to the back end.
this one is pretty small.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-48300/
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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 11:30 AM
  #50  
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Old Oct 1, 2010 | 01:14 PM
  #51  
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From: Exeter
How are you guys mounting the battery to the floor. Are there certain ways that it needs to be done at most tracks (drag and circuit) (steel or sealed box, welded yes/ no that sort of thing)
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Old Oct 2, 2010 | 02:34 AM
  #52  
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From: Tucson, AZ
Originally Posted by dolson222
How are you guys mounting the battery to the floor. Are there certain ways that it needs to be done at most tracks (drag and circuit) (steel or sealed box, welded yes/ no that sort of thing)
this is the easiest track legal and nhra approved way to do it kit comes with everything you need plus it looks clean they also sell a wiring kit for it if you need one also just remember according to nhra if you relocate a battery from its stock location you must install a nhra approved battery box and cut off switch which has to be located on the back bumper and can not be of a plastic or keyed type if you have any other question just send me a pm i have done a **** load of research on this topic hope this helps.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...OU%3AUS%3A1123
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 09:44 AM
  #53  
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Hey guys, quick question,

I'm planning on installing the Taylor Cable (#48103) Relocation Kit this weekend, but after reading all of the how-to's and comments I'm still unclear if I need to install an inline fuse on the positive cable and--if so--what the rating should be. Doesn't the existing positive connection bracket that I'm running the extended wire to already have a fuse in it? If that's the case, why isn't that sufficent?

Thanks in advance!
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 09:57 AM
  #54  
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From: milwaukee, wi
Originally Posted by Grey Razor
Hey guys, quick question,

I'm planning on installing the Taylor Cable (#48103) Relocation Kit this weekend, but after reading all of the how-to's and comments I'm still unclear if I need to install an inline fuse on the positive cable and--if so--what the rating should be. Doesn't the existing positive connection bracket that I'm running the extended wire to already have a fuse in it? If that's the case, why isn't that sufficent?

Thanks in advance!
you need a fuse or circuit breaker close to the battery. the reason is if that long cable going to the front rubs thru its insulation under the car, the fuse under the hood is on the wrong end of all the havoc. nothing will stop the chaos until the battery explodes. i would imagine anything over 100 amps would do just fine.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 10:01 AM
  #55  
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Ah, thank you. That make total sense!

Last edited by Grey Razor; Nov 17, 2010 at 10:02 AM. Reason: Spelling
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 11:01 AM
  #56  
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From: Seattle, WA / Orlando, FL
Any recommendations what what fuse holder/circuit breaker I should be considering? The one I'm thinking about getting is the Stinger ANL SPD5201 in-line fuseholder pictured here:



...along with a 250 amp ANL fuse.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 11:03 AM
  #57  
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From: milwaukee, wi
Originally Posted by Grey Razor
Any recommendations what what fuse holder/circuit breaker I should be considering? The one I'm thinking about getting is the Stinger ANL SPD5201 in-line fuseholder pictured here:



...along with a 250 amp ANL fuse.
that will work. i just got this one. that way if i need to do electrical work i just trip it and dont have to disconnect anything. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...mi+CBF180.html

Last edited by n2oiroc; Nov 17, 2010 at 11:11 AM.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 11:09 AM
  #58  
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From: Deltona
I really don't like those straps. I can can see that thing ripping out of there in a turn.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 11:14 AM
  #59  
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From: Seattle, WA / Orlando, FL


Damn, that one is bad ***. I'm digging the reset button too. Thanks!
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 11:15 AM
  #60  
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From: Dirty Jerz
hey man GREAT job, can you pm me closer detailed pics of ur catch can. I have one for my car I wanna put it EXACTLY how you have urs. Thanks
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