Without reading the whole thread are you guys talking about replacing the straight bearing that supports the input shaft nearest to the clutch with a tapered bearing?

 

yes, and the one at the other end of the input shaft.

 

So apparently there's a bearing other than the straight roller bearing that's used. I just replaced it with a new one last rebuild, even though the old one was still good, reading this though seems like they fail fairly often. The back end of the shaft already has a tapered bearing, the one that you shim.

 

So where are u guys getting your shims set from ?,I can't seam to find that part numbers or the shims it's self for the input and output shafts.

 

Shims are from Mitsubishi.
Manuals are available from EvoScan.com

 

Do u have a link to the site for the shims or a pary number ,i was lookin for evo 8 shims online but my search allways came to a dead end.

 

hi guys

I hv an Evo 9.
Looking for Evo 8 3rd n 4th gear
Anyone have the part number?

Thank you very much

 

This is confusing, at least for the 5spd, unless someone already changed it, the OEM input shaft does not have taper bearings, input has ball bearings 30x72x19mm (6306 standard bearing, bell housing side) and case side is 35x80mmx21mm(6307 standard bearing), only the output shaft has taper bearings from factory. So anyone that's doing this mod, remember which one needs modding. On a side note, the EVO X they changed to taper, so they probably knew the ball bearings were a weak point, most cars have taper on both shaft. More heat generated by taper but stronger.

Same for 5spd

input shaft half casing side:

http://mitsubishi.epcdata.ru/lancer/...sion/m-t-gear/
(foreign language site is better, has pictures!)
picture 22036
part number varies based on thickness .44mm-1.79mm
go here to see if they have any in stock
http://www.partswebsite.com/courtesy.../MN168148.html

Input shim bell housing side, (not a shim, just a circlip c-clip, with different thicknesses, based on how well they machined the input shaft, not really needed with taper bearings, if you want it, just get a thick one and shave it down to fit, EVO X did away with the c-clip because they went to taper)

same link as above, picture 22989
part number varies based on thickness

Go to Jacks, because they charge the same rate as the dealer unless you got a dealer account, and if they get it wrong they will send you the right one. They know what they're talking about.

input 5spd side 3rd gear (27 teeth EVO 8 and 9):

http://www.jackstransmissions.com/co...r-synchro-gear

output side 3rd gear (39 teeth EVO 9, 38 teeth EVO 8)
http://www.jackstransmissions.com/co...rd-output-gear

http://mitsubishi.epcdata.ru/lancer/...sion/m-t-gear/

picture #
22413
22013

Follow the links for 4th gear as well

 

Question guys what piece is this thats broken? And where can I order it?

 

That would be a thrust plate stopper or retainer.

 

That's odd, I've never seen one break before. Just to be on the safe side, I'd order two new thrust plates along with the new stopper/retainer. Look at the number stamped on the thrust plate and order two of the same number.

 

yeah the dude who rebuilt it didnt realize they are a non reusable part, I got the tranny purty cheap. Thank goodness for xmas Apparently an evo transmission is worth a used Playstation 4

 

Time to shake the cobwebs off

My transmission quit in the middle of a 1/4 mile run. I banged 3-4, it free revved to 9k and the shifter was stuck in 4th. Coasted down to get my slip and muscled it out of 4, and 1-2-5-R were still in the game. I figure I broke the shift fork, damaged the slider and maybe added a few more casualties.

My question is, how difficult is it to remove/install the bearings on the shafts, are the gears pressed on at any point in the shafts, and if I were to replace syncros/sliders do I need to re shim? I noticed all the rebuild kits sold that say "everything you need to refresh a worn trans" don't include any shims.

My logic is, I have a broken trans and it's a paperweight. If I send it to anyone, I'm sure it'll be in the $2k range. So, why not crack it open and see what we got and maybe learn in the process. My car makes 550wtq on STM's dyno, so if there is a recommendation for shimming a trans to take that better Id appreciate it.

I may get bored today and rip my trans out/apart

 

You will need a press to remove/install the bearings and you should always check the end float and re shim if necessary any time you have the box apart.

 

Bump for more experience with the taper input shaft bearing.

A post mentioned they upgraded to the tapered bearing and the tranny was overall nosier than before..

Anyone else confirm that?

Also do we have a list of timken part numbers of bearings to avoid buying the bearings from transmission shops/dealers?