I would not do the taper input shaft bearing. It's a great way to load the case in a way that it was designed for and break the case.

 

I can appreciate that.

What about timken part numbers for all our bearings?

 

If you have the trans apart, I recall them all being NTN or Koyo bearings with numbers on them. I'm sure none of them are custom and you can likely get them from a bearing supplier like bearing/belt/chain.

I know you're not the biggest fan of TRE, but he has the best pricing on OEM parts that I have found.

Did you take your trans apart to see what is going on with it? I'm really curious.

 

Roger that, I'll try to reference the numbers on the bearings themselves, I was just hoping someone has done that work for me (

It's coming apart on 12/28, the noise is getting much louder, still pouring metallic fluid. Noise most noticeable at idle while stationary.

I will make a very detailed thread on EvoM listing every single problem I find. I am very experienced with DSM tranny's so most of my personal experience should transfer over to the Evo, I am not worried in the least.

My goal is not to blast TRE, never has been, just sharing my honest/true experience, I find it odd that others swear by his work and I've had a MUCH different experience, so I cannot wait to tear into this tranny and pull the POS CC Stg2 clutch out as well!

 

This is dead wrong, don't listen to this crap.

Jacks, Shep and Alamo MS have been doing this upgrade for years, the EVO X trans also has taper both sides, the taper distributes the load far better than a ball bearing, its the reason why most transmissions use them.

 

Jon at TRE will tell you otherwise. And his trans is in the quickest/fastest CT9A (STM).

 

Noise at idle while stationary is going to be an issue on the input or output shaft.

What don't you like about the CC stg 2? I've had two people bring me that clutch to install and they have both loved it so far after a few thousand miles.

 

I've talked to Jon a number of times on this, he doesn't do it because his 1st gear bushing upgrade is enough to solve the cracked casing issue. He has done the taper upgrade before, he's not for or against it.

 

The roller bearing upgrade on 1st gear has noting to do with how the input shaft loads the case. Jon must tell different people different things (note sarcasm, he probably doesn't), because when we were build my trans, I asked him about it and he said he doesn't do it. It offers no benefit, and incorrectly loads the case. He even told me the exact trans the shep and Jacks get the bearings from, and it not the custom part they claim it to be...lol. Its some DSM trans from the 90's (IIRC)...

 

Then you don't know how transmissions work when that input starts to flex and your taking advice from Jon who couldn't care less about you as a customer, the reason why a lot of us stopped going to him. He's telling you what you want to hear, he has done the taper upgrade, he just see's no benefit and doesn't offer it. But until he can prove that it causes more broken cases, I know he's not against it. He just wants to put a middle finger to his competitors by not doing it.

 

Yep planned to change the input shaft bearings, and possibly the output shaft bearings if I could verify the output shaft actually spins while stationary at Idle. Your statement makes me think it does

Will most likely change the diff bearings as well, since I have a gear whine at HW speeds that I am convinced is not TC related - I'm very logic driven and the fact I had ZERO whine before the TRE job, tranny is spewing metallic fluid for 15k miles, and noise at idle while stationary all point to one thing in my mind.

Not trying to derail this thread, but since you asked for a reason i dislike the clutch:
1. Engagement window feels two weeks long
2. Burns VERY easily
3. Flywheel was resurfaced prior to install
4. Master and Slave cylinders replaced; bleed 5 times

My situation may again be *unique* as I originally ordered the CC with an Unsprung hub, Jon@TRE stated that an unsprung hub will wear my syncro's much faster and he recommended I switch to a sprung hub. I called CC and they stated the PP between the two models are identical and all I needed was a new disc.....Maybe CC was wrong and the PP is different...IDK.

At any rate, I've always had incredible success with SBC, so I have a new custom stg2 daily waiting to go in...cannot wait!

 

The only two questions I would add to this particular debate is:

Are the VIII and IX trannies, nosier with this mod?
Does the Evo X tranny have different bracing to allow for the increased load?

 

Having had work done by him and Shep, as well as driving cars with a Shep trans, I can tell you Jon's trans is better, and I think his work is better. He delivers a nicer finished porduct. The fact that he makes an OEM tcase ring and pinion work while shep and jack's charge you out the *** for an aftermarket gear set says a lot.

And to say he doesn't care about his customer is complete BS. I have his billet oil cooler plate on my trans, out of the blue I received an envelope full of orings from him. So I called him wondering what they are, and he said he sent them to everyone who had bout the cooler plate because he revised the oring design to resolve a leaking issue some people had experienced. I'd say that's caring...

Not to mention he has helped me out with pricing and labor even when broken stuff was my fault.

Output shaft only spins when the car is moving. However, 1st, 2nd, 5th, and reverse gears on the output shaft spin independent of the output shaft when those synchros aren't engaging those gears. So it could be an issue there.

Valid reasons to not like a clutch.

An unspring disk is harder on everything on the trans. I don't see why the PP would be different for a sprung vs unsprung disk.

I've never driven a taper bearing input shaft Evo 8/9, so idk about noise. I do know my first gear whine got way louder with installing poly motor/trans mounts...lol. I've never had a X trans apart to comment on what the case looks like..

 

Ok, thanks for the info, rest assured I will check everything out, though I have not decided if I'm going to break down the shafts completely for my investigation. Planned to thoroughly clean everything and spin by hand and check for noise/abnormal movement.

Also planning on checking the case for any evidence of teeth contacting the casing.

The metallic fluid is silver in color and non-magnetic, not abrasive at all to the touch, but could be like a rubbing compund/cleaner wax abrasion level. The only area I'm not sure of is how the needle bearings would handle this metallic fluid.

I definitely plan on replacing the 2nd/3rd gear syncro's because I never liked it from day one after TRE built it...I'm hoping he didn't perform any custom work to the teeth of the slider/syncros that are in there as that might make an oem syncro assembly shift worse.


The only reason I can think that a PP could be different between the two disc types would be to account for the difference in disc thickness, if any.

 

That's crazy that the fluid isn't abrasive. Super weird.


Jon does mod the synchro's for better shifting, like all the trans shops. They definitely don't shift too great when cold, especially when ambient is below 50*, the trans really has to warm up a bit. I usually let the car idle a few minutes, and just drive it easy for a few miles. Mine have been great otherwise. And once warmed up, it shifts like a dog box at 8k rpms. Execpt the 5th gear grind/crunch is starting to come back now that the trans seen some some abuse; probably close to 15k miles with some track days and plenty of roll races in mexico.


The thickness of the friction would be the same. Only the hub thickness would change, which would not require a different PP.