i rebuilt my tranny after i broke the 4th gear fork...

 

If anyone needs a factory new transmission I have 2 fs at 2k per unit and can ship
as well.

I have no use for them anymore so I am selling them cheap just to move them.

 

5 or 6sp?

 

As soon as I get the GO to host the images from the manual, I will have them up for everyone to use. I figured I would wait and give the guy/company that provided them the chance to tell me Yes or No to making it public.
-Jerry

 

Well it sounds like i'll be using the info provided here very soon:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/dr...ear-no-go.html

Feels like 2nd gear doesn't even exist!

Now who do i pm again about more detailed info??? lol

 

Send me an email
jerry@tripscustoms.com

 

If anyone has the 6sp manual please let m eknow. I really need one.

 

Transmission Service Manual

 

This definitely has me a little worried. I had that stuff in my gearbox for about 2k miles as well. That was over a year ago, and everything is still working well, so perhaps it didn't get fully clogged.

 

THANKS R/TErnie i got the e-mail

 

I have put 1 qt. of heavy SP in my trans since 10k miles on the ticker. I'm currently at 60k miles and the transmission isn't making any noises it did then vs. now. The other 2 qts have been BGII, OEM, and most miles on MT90, but I always mix 1 qt of HSP with it.

I think your ok

 

I hope so. Anyhow, back to the main topic of this great thread...

 

Between Nasty and R/Ternie, they have supplied nearly all the information one would need to do this their self. Thank you guys. I will be making a list of all part numbers, and hosting a pdf file with them as well.

 

Still waiting on the Part #'s lists. Anyone have any part numbers for items they replaced? If so, please email them to me at jerry@tripscustoms.com

 

I have some part numbers of some of the snap rings that I had to order. I'll have to get those later.

I assembled my transmission last week (case halves put back together) and I have a few things I'd like to share.

I used Hondabond to seal the case and everything else... great stuff. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. You can get this from the Honda dealership

SETTING CLEARANCES AND PRE LOADS
If you read the FSM it will tell you that you need to check your clearances and preloads on your input, output, and differential bearings. Since the output shaft and the differential both have roller taper bearings they require preload. Since you'll most likely have to order the correct thickness shim... be sure to spec your shims to within 0.02mm of the tightest spec. for your output/diff bearings.

To check your clearance/preload. Remove the bearing race that's in the outer transmission housing (ahem...not the bell housing) Behind this you'll find your shims. Mark them and measure them. If you mix them up...it's not a big deal... just don't lose them.

After you've assembled the shafts and you're ready to reassemble put the diff, input, and output shafts in the bellhousing case. (I hung the end of the case over the end of my bench because the differential splined output extends outside of the case...you'll see what I mean) I used a large set of C clamps to hold my case to the table so it wouldn't flop off from the weight of the diff and the high cg of the shafts.

Now you should have your bellhousing, input shaft, output shaft, and differential installed with your shift forks (if you like) in your transmission case.

Cut 6 10mm long 1/16" diameter rosin based solder pieces. I color coded each pair (blue, black, and raw) via my sharpie collection. take a dab of grease (I used bicycle grease) and dab two spots on the top of each bearing race where it seats in the case. BE SURE NOT TO PUT THE SOLDER IN THE PLASTIC OF THE SEALED INPUT SHAFT BEARING OR ON THE INNER RACE OF THE TAPERED BEARINGS!!! The solder belongs on the out most metal part of the bearings. I used the grease to hold them in place.

*** MAKE SURE YOUR SHIMS ARE REMOVED ****

Carefully assemble the case and torque the case bolts to 32 lb-ft. Be sure to lube the fasteners. I used anti-seize. Remove all the bolts after they have been torqued. Lift the case off. Carefully collect and measure your solder thickness' You put a pair of them on the bearing to help distribute the load. Be sure to measure BOTH of your solders...they may be different.

NOTE: don't put the solders near the etched logo or part number on the bearing... the solder will work its way into these crevices and give you a false reading if you don't notice.

After you know how much clearance you have... you can set your clearances and pre-loads with the right shim.

Just for reference... my transmission ended up having the following specs/shims
BEARING SHIM MEASURED RESULTING
INPUT SHAFT 1.56mm (1.62mm solder) +0.06mm CLEARANCE
OUTPUT SHAFT 1.24mm (1.08mm solder) -0.16mm PRE LOAD
DIFFERENTIAL 1.07mm (.97mm solder) -0.10mm PRE LOAD

FACTORY SPECS
INPUT SHAFT END PLAY
0.05mm to 0.17mm or .0020" to .0067"

OUTPUT SHAFT PRE LOAD
0.13mm to 0.18mm or .0051" to .0071"

DIFFERENTIAL PRE LOAD
0.05mm to 0.11mm or .0020" to .0043"

*** I personally recommend running to the tight spec on all clearances/preloads. ***
That means .05mm on the input shaft, 0.17mm on the output shaft, and 0.10mm on the diff.

*** I personally recommend ordering your shims from John Shepher (ShepTrans.com). Send him an email (sales@sheptrans.com) with the shim sizes that you want. They deal in inches not millimeters so be nice and do the conversion before you send them an email. ***

Mr. Fred,
LWSP is quite different from HWSP. I have a co-worker with a 400hp miata that runs HWSP in his trans with no qualms... And he's seen the insides of at least 12 of those transmissions in the past year. (miata gear boxes were designed for that kind of torque on 275 wide RA-1's.)