DIY Transmission Re-Build Tips
Just bumping this back as i took the trans out and cracked the case open to find out what was the problem before sending it out or repairing locally so i can get out racing once again.
I also have some pics i can post up but i may just start a new thread unless you'd like them here.....juts general pics of the layout of the internals no detailed individual pics of each and every piece yet as i'm still not sure if/where it will go
Here's what happened to mine i believe. I don't think the pins should look like that
Was briefly messin with the 1-2 engagement with the shift rails off and something didn't seem quite right either when all the other gears slide easily
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I also have some pics i can post up but i may just start a new thread unless you'd like them here.....juts general pics of the layout of the internals no detailed individual pics of each and every piece yet as i'm still not sure if/where it will go

Here's what happened to mine i believe. I don't think the pins should look like that

Was briefly messin with the 1-2 engagement with the shift rails off and something didn't seem quite right either when all the other gears slide easily

]
Last edited by PATRICK B.; Aug 27, 2009 at 03:40 PM.
From my other thread...
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...look-like.html

congrats! Buy a double roll pin and safety wire it. I talk about it in my thread above.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...look-like.html

congrats! Buy a double roll pin and safety wire it. I talk about it in my thread above.
Second, get that blue crap out of your tranny. Guessing Shockproof? NO NO NO.
If your roll pin is screwed you need to push it out, and press in a new one, there is also a special way to located the "C" opening of the pin so it does not crush and do the same thing again. The opening of the C needs to face the direction of the shift fork travel.
shift fork moves ----> position clip like this C also.
If your roll pin is screwed you need to push it out, and press in a new one, there is also a special way to located the "C" opening of the pin so it does not crush and do the same thing again. The opening of the C needs to face the direction of the shift fork travel.
shift fork moves ----> position clip like this C also.
Seems to be doing fine now but haven't gotten back to the track yet due to weather last weekend

I now have double roll pins and they are safety wired
yeah... long time ago. I run the MTL- MT-90 cocktail. No more lightweight for me. I had to clean its wax like deposites out of the oil passages when I rebuilt the gear box. That stuff is sure death for Evo gear boxes.
Cheers, Mike
The Redline Cocktail shifts much better than the LWShockProof.
I put more MT-90 in mine because of the torque I'm putting through the gear box.
The issues with shifting lie far deeper than just the fluid.
- MOI of clutch discs, 2nd gear synchro health, weight of the gears, clutch teeth condition, slider and hub condition, etc.
I don't think many Evo's shift well with 500+ HP @ 8kRPM's making the 1-2 shift. That requires a lightweight 7.25 clutch and a well built box! But that's another topic all together.
I put more MT-90 in mine because of the torque I'm putting through the gear box.
The issues with shifting lie far deeper than just the fluid.
- MOI of clutch discs, 2nd gear synchro health, weight of the gears, clutch teeth condition, slider and hub condition, etc.
I don't think many Evo's shift well with 500+ HP @ 8kRPM's making the 1-2 shift. That requires a lightweight 7.25 clutch and a well built box! But that's another topic all together.
The Redline Cocktail shifts much better than the LWShockProof.
I put more MT-90 in mine because of the torque I'm putting through the gear box.
The issues with shifting lie far deeper than just the fluid.
- MOI of clutch discs, 2nd gear synchro health, weight of the gears, clutch teeth condition, slider and hub condition, etc.
I don't think many Evo's shift well with 500+ HP @ 8kRPM's making the 1-2 shift. That requires a lightweight 7.25 clutch and a well built box! But that's another topic all together.
I put more MT-90 in mine because of the torque I'm putting through the gear box.
The issues with shifting lie far deeper than just the fluid.
- MOI of clutch discs, 2nd gear synchro health, weight of the gears, clutch teeth condition, slider and hub condition, etc.
I don't think many Evo's shift well with 500+ HP @ 8kRPM's making the 1-2 shift. That requires a lightweight 7.25 clutch and a well built box! But that's another topic all together.

Although i've had my fair share of 2nd gear synchro issues i honestly don't think i can blame them 100% on just the fluid...........i lean more towards pushing the gearbox to it's limit and w/ a worn clutch it's a gamble what may go wrong and for me it seems to be 2nd gear
On a big power car if its spinning 1st gear it really hurts 2nd gear when you try to shift it fast. Also alot of time smacking the rev limiter will beat the hubs out of it pretty fast.
Fathouse
Fathouse





