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DIY Transmission Re-Build Tips

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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 01:39 PM
  #76  
PATRICK B.'s Avatar
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From: CALIFORNIA
Just bumping this back as i took the trans out and cracked the case open to find out what was the problem before sending it out or repairing locally so i can get out racing once again.

I also have some pics i can post up but i may just start a new thread unless you'd like them here.....juts general pics of the layout of the internals no detailed individual pics of each and every piece yet as i'm still not sure if/where it will go

Here's what happened to mine i believe. I don't think the pins should look like that

Was briefly messin with the 1-2 engagement with the shift rails off and something didn't seem quite right either when all the other gears slide easily

]

Last edited by PATRICK B.; Aug 27, 2009 at 03:40 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 01:48 PM
  #77  
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The pin should be flush?
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 08:52 PM
  #78  
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Hey Patrick, I think your tranny is "Smucked" (I mean, got Smurfed)...

Last edited by Zeus; Aug 27, 2009 at 08:54 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 05:48 AM
  #79  
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Patrick: Do you use Redline Light Weight Shockprof on it all the time without syncro issues?
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 10:11 AM
  #80  
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From my other thread...
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...look-like.html

Name:  Evotrans008.jpg
Views: 0
Size:  110.1 KB

congrats! Buy a double roll pin and safety wire it. I talk about it in my thread above.
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 11:37 PM
  #81  
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bump,

Tool wise, what would I need? I have the FSM, also what are the part list?
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 07:55 AM
  #82  
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Second, get that blue crap out of your tranny. Guessing Shockproof? NO NO NO.

If your roll pin is screwed you need to push it out, and press in a new one, there is also a special way to located the "C" opening of the pin so it does not crush and do the same thing again. The opening of the C needs to face the direction of the shift fork travel.

shift fork moves ----> position clip like this C also.
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 09:03 AM
  #83  
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anyone look at the date
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 09:54 AM
  #84  
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From: CALIFORNIA
Originally Posted by true
Patrick: Do you use Redline Light Weight Shockprof on it all the time without syncro issues?
Sorry i'm waaay late on this response but yes i do run it all the time but my car is not a DD and recently had to replace the 2nd gear synchro as i munched it up w/ repeated mis-shifts before i rebuilt the clutch.

Seems to be doing fine now but haven't gotten back to the track yet due to weather last weekend

I now have double roll pins and they are safety wired

Originally Posted by kickin wing
anyone look at the date
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 12:24 PM
  #85  
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yeah... long time ago. I run the MTL- MT-90 cocktail. No more lightweight for me. I had to clean its wax like deposites out of the oil passages when I rebuilt the gear box. That stuff is sure death for Evo gear boxes.
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 12:34 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by R/TErnie
yeah... long time ago. I run the MTL- MT-90 cocktail. No more lightweight for me. I had to clean its wax like deposites out of the oil passages when I rebuilt the gear box. That stuff is sure death for Evo gear boxes.
what does that stuff shift like R/TErnie? the cocktail that is... I'm running Motul in my gearbox at the mo, but i know of some evo's running lightweight. If non lightweight is better, i'll definitely recommend it to them.

Cheers, Mike
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 10:13 PM
  #87  
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I have used the cocktail and it shifts pretty good, but if you auto x or drive in cold. Go with a straight mix of the 75 wt Redline MTL So much smoother.
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 10:38 PM
  #88  
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From: WAR EAGLE!
The Redline Cocktail shifts much better than the LWShockProof.

I put more MT-90 in mine because of the torque I'm putting through the gear box.

The issues with shifting lie far deeper than just the fluid.
- MOI of clutch discs, 2nd gear synchro health, weight of the gears, clutch teeth condition, slider and hub condition, etc.

I don't think many Evo's shift well with 500+ HP @ 8kRPM's making the 1-2 shift. That requires a lightweight 7.25 clutch and a well built box! But that's another topic all together.
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 08:12 AM
  #89  
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From: CALIFORNIA
Originally Posted by R/TErnie
The Redline Cocktail shifts much better than the LWShockProof.

I put more MT-90 in mine because of the torque I'm putting through the gear box.

The issues with shifting lie far deeper than just the fluid.
- MOI of clutch discs, 2nd gear synchro health, weight of the gears, clutch teeth condition, slider and hub condition, etc.

I don't think many Evo's shift well with 500+ HP @ 8kRPM's making the 1-2 shift. That requires a lightweight 7.25 clutch and a well built box! But that's another topic all together.
And what about us poor guys that have over 600hp and shift at 9k

Although i've had my fair share of 2nd gear synchro issues i honestly don't think i can blame them 100% on just the fluid...........i lean more towards pushing the gearbox to it's limit and w/ a worn clutch it's a gamble what may go wrong and for me it seems to be 2nd gear
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 06:44 PM
  #90  
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On a big power car if its spinning 1st gear it really hurts 2nd gear when you try to shift it fast. Also alot of time smacking the rev limiter will beat the hubs out of it pretty fast.

Fathouse
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