Cant watch the vid at work. Ill save it for when I get home.

 

Very informative thread, thanks guys!! Will use it when i do my clutch and a evo 8 4th gear upgrade.. Subscribed!!!

 

Sorry to bump such an old thread but there are several people in here I'd like opinions from. I heard a noise from my transmission and decided to pull it. The car has a 4.11 fd, 26" hoosiers and trapped 149 so I know its going to be hard on parts but I'm thinking my problem can be solved with a tapered roller bearing on the input shaft.

The primary damage was 2 ears on the friction ring in the #3 synchro had broken off. We noticed on this fairly fresh transmission that the 3-4 fork had excessive wear as well. We think removing the end play from the input shaft and preloading it with a tapered roller bearing (like what jacks is offereing) will solve this issue of excessive movement of the input shaft that the standard roller bearing is allowing. I know that bearing is an issue even in stock evos but a high tq car (my car makes 620ft lbs) with a qm and a lot of drivetrain stress is only going to amplify that issue.

Any opinions and does anyone have a lead on where to purchase one other than jacks? I don't know if he is selling them as a set separately of a full transmission rebuild.

 

Can't you just get the input shaft bearings from mitsuparts.com or your dealer. I'm pretty sure the input shaft bearings are revised now a days well that's what I read a few pages back. I'm also redoing my trans as we speak and this tread has a lot of good info

**edit I see what your talking about Wheatley..The stock bearings on the input shafts are roller and you want to put a tappered one's? What input shaft bearings are you running before you took the trans apart?

 

quick question: my fresh rebuilt tranny and TC drive amazing, but would Torque Solution motor mounts make a whine in 1st and 2nd noticeable in the cabin? I can hear the whine in those 2 gears almost like a straight cut gear in a race car... is that normal?

Evo IX SE with Evo 8 3/4 gears and Wavetrac LSD

 

I have had more failures of the input shaft bearing in the last 1.5 years than previous years. I cant remember exactly how many transmissions i have rebuilt, but i have had 4 of them fail. None of them fully broke, but they started making knocking noise.

I have actually been more reluctant to replace them these days.

 

Found a set of tapered roller bearings that do work. Timken part numbers 26118, 26283, 28138 and 28315.
Just put them on the input shaft and they fit perfectly.





Used a shim that got me 0.10mm of preload.

I would suggest that the next size up snap rings from the dealer.
MD746709 1.51mm spline side of the shaft
MD746603 1.51mm drivers side of the shaft

 

Edited the post above. found a set that did work this time.

 

Great info. Did you get it back together and hows it feel? I need to open up my transmission but haven't had the ***** to tackle that job.

 

Thanks for the info!

 

where to find the double roll pins? size?

 

would like to see some field tests of these bearings. like what i see. got it running/tested yet??

 

Put in 500 miles on the transmission yesterday, with 400 highway miles and 50 miles on the inde motorsports ranch track. Used a 3/4 tank of gas in that 50 miles, so it was a lot of hard driving, and lots of shifting.

First impressions;

• Gear box is overall nosier, especially first
• Slightly harder to shift into gear from a stop, especially when cold
• the up-shifts definitely feel crisper
• Didn't feel any change with the down-shifts

Fluid used is redline MT-90, so that could have an effect on the harsher cold shifting. Haven't done is fast/high rpm 1st/2nd shifts, but i will test that later.

In the next couple of days, i am going to drain out the transmission fluid, and look for any metal shavings. That will give me an idea on the bearing wear.

 

Double roll pins are stock in the 6 speed trans.


Is that a brass bearing retainer on the large input shaft bearing? Could it be weaker? Maybe look for yellow/brass in the oil when you drain it.

From my experience the input shaft should have a tiny amount of freeplay, or a very tiny amount of preload, otherwise it's hard to put into first gear from a stop. Hopefully it'll loosen up a little as the miles roll by. Thanks for the update!

 

instead of using double rolled pins, i have used smaller pins to insert inside the oem shifter pin. 28mm long, 3mm diameter.
part number 91611A171 from mcmaster-carr is where i am ordered them from.