I don't like posting in this section because not that many people visit it. I understand why it was moved but posting here will take days for responses to come through.

 

why doesn't someone knowledgeable make a "how to" thread for "how to get 400whp" or "how to get 450 or 500...etc.

of course the hp ratings would be approximate, but would help to inform noobs like myself of all the things(including the little ones) to safely achieve a certain hp level. I know these lists would vary slightly between VIII's and IX's.

my friend has an srt-4 and they have a sticky thread on how to get 300whp on the stock turbo.

there has to be plenty of experienced shop owners that could make close estimates of what mods would be needed.

 

^^^ a very good advice

 

400whp+ can be achieved easily by

fp green / bbk
3" TBE
Forge rs bov
Hallman pro mbc
Walbro255
880 inj
LICP

Thats basically all it takes. a non restrictive exhaust + enough fuel delivery + more airflow (bigger turbo) + proper tuning + no boost leaks

Then for tuning

ECUFlash
Tephra mod
Evoscan + datacable
Wideband

Then id put tbolts on the piping for reassurance.

you could probably hit 400 on stock evo 9 turbo also with good cams added to the list.

 

This is a great start.

On DSMTalk.com they also have a stickey on how to get 400 HP. Perhaps the powers that be could do that here as well.

-Shane

 

excellent

 

yea, lets get a list for 500whp up here.

 

I'm slowing finding out that 500whp requires a built motor, especially if you're asking for that much power on a mustang dyno. I have every supporting mod to make 500whp on a mustang dyno, but I'm afraid the torque is going to kill my stock 2.0L.

 

great info...

 

My friend made 620 whp on pump gas at 31psi...Also 500 whp is fine on a stock block with a good tune.

 

Your friend is on borrowed time. and is that on a mustang or a dynojet? how many miles? It's not about tune you can't beat physics.

 

^whats the "standard" for safe whp/wtq on a stock block?

 

Most would say no more than 400wtq on a mustang dyno. It's about the material and manufacturing processes. I'm pretty sure that the stock rods are cast steel and the FCC structure of the material is not strong enough to handle more tq for endured use.

Hp should not matter (of course proper tuning plays a role), but with hp you are going to make tq and tq = force x area and thus eventually the connecting rod will snap. It' sees bending forces and that's why when you exam a broken con rod it usually has an angle leading up to the broken part. I blew my first motor on 420wtq btw.

 

good to know, im debating replacing rods and pistons and arp bolts for first mods...cylinder walls should be good for a good while right? trying to get a fast DD but make sure i get longevity also. its tough going from a little civic hatch to an evo...anything over 200 whp is fast for a civic lol


thanks for the info!

 

what turbo and psi were u running b4 u blew ur motor?