JohnBradley

iTrader: (30)

I see we define the term MBT differently. You use it in the proper sense as taught by fellows like Strader.

The use of the phrase here, EvoM in general, means the point where the car stops making power regardless of boost. On an Evo they will stop making power (appreciable anyway) past 18-19*. You'd see something like 10whp per degree, then 6-7, then 0* on fuel like ethanol where octane really isnt going to be an issue. You can add another 5* and only make 3whp more or something silly.

Eric and I have talked about how I misuse the term and should look for a new one. I counter with it is the right term for what it defines and everyone else needs to change. At any rate I gotcha now

thanks

aaron

03whitegsr

iTrader: (8)

I don't see how this blind 25 degrees for best reliability is true at all.

25 degrees on 91 octane and a near stock internal 4G63 is very low boost levels. Of course reliability is higher, you aren't making jack for power.

DynoDude55

iTrader: (20)

33.5 - 26 = 5lbs???

http://www.winbergcrankshafts.com/20...ankshafts.html

According to my calculations 33.5 - 26 = 7.5lbs. As for the revised edition of the manley crank you are correct, my manley catalog is out dated however keep in mind that the Winberg crankshaft is made.

38six

iTrader: (6)

Haha it's 32.5 but whose counting. I really like the winbergcrankshafts it's a work of art. But to be fair I think Manley makes all there top of the line products here in the US also.

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

OOPS! Why did I think you said 28? LOL, 26 is light. How strong is that thing? I've never heard of Winberg. What's your car's history? And how is it treating you? ~7 lbs is a good amount. I have a feeling that even if I knew about the Winberg beforehand, I'd still have gone with the revised Manley, however it's nice to see people with different builds (which is one of the purposes of this thread)

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

btw, DynoDude, I can definitely see where they took the rest of that weight off... interesting stuff.

So that's it? like 3-4 people sharing aluminum rod builds/history/info? I hope as time passes, more people post up and we can have an informative thread. My car is in the breaking-in process at the moment.

38six

iTrader: (6)

I like the winbergcrankshafts there beautiful and should work real well w/ aluminum rods for the lightest rotating assembly. But I also went w/ the revised manley billet crank b/c i'm just a Buschur racing fan boy! Seriously though with the winbergcrankshaft 1 has to do a benefit cost analysis for their application: How much is to much ?

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

I don't understand what you mean by the cost. What is the price difference you're talking about? Also, do you have an aluminum rod build you'd like to share?

I got my Manley for a nice price through someone I know.

38six

iTrader: (6)

Winbergcrankshafts cost approx: $ 3,000.00, nah I was to scared to use alluminum rods for my application, even though Mike and the gang at AWD said to do it. I don't want to be any bodies guinea pig, I'm waiting to see what happens w/ you I went with manley 300m it's the best solution for my application.

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

1200 miles and counting. gonna go a nice amount for break-in.

nyquil2

iTrader: (1)

updates

Migsubishi

iTrader: (38)

That winberg crank looks unsafe, like someone shot it to hell... eh I would rather save the extra $1600 and buy those 300m rods and other goodies and just deal with the addition 7lbs. I mean look at MAP Performance and their high hp cars, I'm sure they're no winberg cranks in those builds and like the energizer bunny they keep going and going and going...> past 8.5k all season long.

I'm interested in the aluminum rods for the 2.4l but will wait till someone comes out with a set I can just bolt in w/o redecorating the inner webbing of my block..

MagicManRed

iTrader: (14)

My car is still awaiting a shep built 6 speed trans, and a ball bearing converted fp black. once those go in.... i'll finally put more than the 1500 miles on my motor LOL.

Keep us updated guys!

dastallion951

• When was the motor built?
-Motor was built 11/08
• What rod bearings did you go with?
-ACL coated bearings with thrust washers
• What rods did you go with?
-Eagle Rods
• What crank shaft did you put them on?
-Stock crank, but had some machine work done to it.
• What compression ratio did you choose?
-9.0:1 compression
• What displacement are you running?
-2.0 Liter
• How many miles of non-boost breaking-in did you do before spirited driving?
-spent about 500-1000 miles of little to no boost, couldnt boost above 5psi before boost cut kicked in until I got it on the dyno.
• Who built the motor/what shop?
-Tuning Technologies in Colton, Ca
• What are you using your vehicle for?
-Daily Driver
• How many miles are on your vehicle since the break-in?
-Engine was rebuilt when the chassis had 54,xxx miles on it currently running 69,xxx miles as of today.
• What fuel/boost level are you set on?
-I'm running 91 Cali octane, tuned for about 25-26 peak hold about 22.xx at redline.
• If your motor blew (whether it's a head-gasket, piston, cylinder, rod, spun bearing, valve, etc...) state how many miles after the build/break-in that it occurred and what you were doing during the tragedy.
-Motor hasnt blown yet, but when my stock motor went, it had low compression in the # 3 cylinder, so before it was rebuilt, either effed up cylinder wall, or a bad ring..No problems on this build yet other then a small issue with oil pan leaked in the past.

JC evo1

eagle make aluminum rods now? hmm