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Attention All Aluminum Rod Engine Owners....

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Old Aug 8, 2012, 01:26 AM
  #61  
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I have a Tomei 94mm crank

Thinking of getting the 156mm rods GRP

Mahle 86mm pistons 9:01 compression

1.8mm 86.5 Tomei head gasket

6466 turbo with ETS heads

S3 cams with kiggleys valve springs and retainers.

Would the aluminium be good with this set up
Old Aug 8, 2012, 07:15 AM
  #62  
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guys going with the Winberg should just skip the aluminum rods and go straight to Ti.a set of rods for the EVO made of Ti are going to be cheaper than the Winberg and you won't have to check your rods every so often.
Old Aug 8, 2012, 07:36 AM
  #63  
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You could also just go with the Butcher crank for $500 and have it be only 1 pound more then the Winberg...

Although, I can't comment on the reliability of the Butcher crank or FFWDConnection.

But beyond that, it's not strictly about weight. The aluminum rods soften the impact load on the bearings and help the rod bearings hold up longer on high power setups.
Old Aug 8, 2012, 08:42 AM
  #64  
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When was the motor built?
Motor was built in Feb. '12
• What rod bearings did you go with?
ACL race bearing
• What rods did you go with?
R&R
• What crank shaft did you put them on?
Oem
• What compression ratio did you choose?
JE 10:1
• What displacement are you running?
2.0L
• How many miles of non-boost breaking-in did you do before spirited driving?
600ish
• What motor oil are you using? Why?
10w30 7000series schaffers, this oil has lots of good stuff for bearing
• Who built the motor/what shop?
Track Star Performance from Denver
• What are you using your vehicle for?
High way runs/ spirited driving
• How many miles are on your vehicle since the break-in?
900ish
• What fuel/boost level are you set on?
E85, currently at 25 psi
• If your motor blew (whether it's a head-gasket, piston, cylinder, rod, spun bearing, valve, etc...) state how many miles after the build/break-in that it occurred and what you were doing during the tragedy.
Cars currently running FANTASTIC
Old Nov 9, 2012, 10:07 AM
  #65  
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My First Evo &amp;amp; Not built by me. I essentially purchased a built car that needed professional help. MY answers below may seem a bit vague, however, I do not have any build sheet or invoices for exact specs. All info based off the line card I was given &amp;amp; what Ive seen with my own eyes.&lt;br /&gt;<br />
&lt;br /&gt;<br />
• When was the motor built?&lt;br /&gt;<br />
2011&lt;br /&gt;<br />
• What rod bearings did you go with?&lt;br /&gt;<br />
Clevite 77 (Required for Manley)&lt;br /&gt;<br />
• What rods did you go with?&lt;br /&gt;<br />
GRP&lt;br /&gt;<br />
• What crank shaft did you put them on?&lt;br /&gt;<br />
Manley forged 100mm 4G64&lt;br /&gt;<br />
• What compression ratio did you choose?&lt;br /&gt;<br />
Weisco 1400 HD (Not sure)&lt;br /&gt;<br />
• What displacement are you running?&lt;br /&gt;<br />
2.1L (Am told)&lt;br /&gt;<br />
• How many miles of non-boost breaking-in did you do before spirited driving?&lt;br /&gt;<br />
300@ best(Boosted on rough AEM EMS Tune w/ Overboosting issues - Recently fixed 17psi)&lt;br /&gt;<br />
• What motor oil are you using? Why?&lt;br Valvoline Race grade&lt;br /&gt;<br />
• Who built the motor/what shop?&lt;br /&gt;<br />
A machinist in Glen Burnie, Md (Unknown to me)&lt;br /&gt;<br />
• What are you using your vehicle for?&lt;br /&gt;<br />
Toy &amp;amp; occasional transportation&lt;br /&gt;<br />
• How many miles are on your vehicle since the break-in?&lt;br /&gt;<br />
1000 Maybe?&lt;br /&gt;<br />
• What fuel/boost level are you set on?&lt;br /&gt;<br />
93 Oct - Was tuned at 17psi to 5k rpm only(**Boosting over 30psi) - Currently corrected &amp;amp; @ 17psi&lt;br /&gt;<br />
• If your motor blew (whether it's a head-gasket, piston, cylinder, rod, spun bearing, valve, etc...) state how many miles after the build/break-in that it occurred and what you were doing during the tragedy.&lt;br /&gt;<br />
Not blown yet! Fixing all the previous owners amateur screw-ups &amp;amp; making repairs as necessary - Tuning will be done within next few months by *Grant Zartman @ House of Power&lt;br /&gt;<br />
&lt;br /&gt;<br />
&lt;br /&gt;<br />
&lt;u&gt;Other attributes:&lt;/u&gt; Stock Evo8 head (No portwork) 1mm OS SS Supertech valves, Kiggly Valve springs, Kelford 272/272 Cams, AEM Cam gears (-4degrees), ARP hd studs, ARP Main Studs, Cometic head gasket, Above listed bottom end components, Stage 1 Trans build CBRD outsourced, T-case stg 2 CBRD outsourced w/ Diff (**Unknown brand), Rear Diff re-worked (supposedly), Act billet light flywheel, ATS/Carbonetics Twin disc, Turbotrix V-Banded Manifold, HTA3586 V-banded Turbine, Tial 46mm Gate (*17psi Spring - Blue from Precision kit), 3&amp;quot; Turbo back to Injen exhaust, Tial 50mm BOV, Greddy FMIC, Precision 1600 Injectors, Aeroquip AFPR (set @44psi), Walbro 255pump, AEM EMS, AEM UEGO, B&amp;amp;M Oversized Oil Cooler, CBRD Alum Radiator (Full Size), Catch Can, Battery re-locate...<br />
<br />
UPDATE: 6/6/2014<br />
Car has been down over a year. Put on Hiatus after loosing Clutch pressure when Street tuning. Pulled car in Shop back in February 2014. From the moment I bought car it always had an ignition/starter issue. Considering multiple engines over the years, was presumed starter was on last leg. That was never rectified until diagnosis of clutch was being looked into. Symptom with starter and clutch were related, as it would appear the Flywheel bolts were backed out of the crankshaft. Thus causing flywheel wobble.... :/<br />
So much thanks to the idiot I bought the car from.... <br />
At this time I've removed drivetrain from the car and engine is on a stand. The Crankshaft is damaged beyond repair. The ACT flywheel that was in there w/ SS/XD clutch is trash now due to flywheel bolt damage. I purchased an ATS/Carbonetics in the meantime of car hiatus. <br />
Purchasing a New Manley Crankshaft and adding a windage tray and deeper sump oilpan while here as well as a nice port job on the cylinder head (It has supporting mods). I can say, the Bearings from severe untuned overboost on Pump gas look amazing, no scoring or damage, still look new! I have no concerns about these rods or durability, now that it will be assembled correctly. <br />
I'm considering E85 Tuning, so larger Injectors will be in order as well as an additional Fuel pump. But I'm looking to push the 700HP range. I will update this thread when I get the engine back in the car and have some dyno info.
Attached Thumbnails Attention All Aluminum Rod Engine Owners....-tmp_image343227581.jpg   Attention All Aluminum Rod Engine Owners....-tmp_image2110945513.jpg   Attention All Aluminum Rod Engine Owners....-tmp_fb_img_14004413411891469-524122960.jpg  

Last edited by importrepairguy; Jun 6, 2014 at 06:02 AM. Reason: Corrections
Old Nov 25, 2012, 10:06 PM
  #66  
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• When was the motor built?
march 08
• What rod bearings did you go with?
ACL Race Calico coated
• What rods did you go with?
GRP 162mm
• What crank shaft did you put them on?
OEM 88mm
• What compression ratio did you choose?
10:1
• What displacement are you running?
2.1
• How many miles of non-boost breaking-in did you do before spirited driving?
0 Broke it in on the dyno and tuned it.
• What motor oil are you using? Why?
Break in and tune on Castrol 20-50, Total 15-50 there after. Good zinc content and have had very good luck with it.
• Who built the motor/what shop?
Myself/UMS Tuning
• What are you using your vehicle for?
Road race. time trial and time attack. Quite a bit of cruises etc the first 2 years.
• How many miles are on your vehicle since the break-in?
approx 10k
• What fuel/boost level are you set on?
e85/30psi 600hp/500tq
• If your motor blew (whether it's a head-gasket, piston, cylinder, rod, spun bearing, valve, etc...) state how many miles after the build/break-in that it occurred and what you were doing during the tragedy.
dyno pull 7krpm It spun a bearing and chucked a rod. Pretty good run for this motor!
Old Jun 4, 2013, 03:12 PM
  #67  
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bump for info
Old Mar 25, 2014, 07:09 AM
  #68  
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any updates from anyone?
Old Mar 25, 2014, 08:36 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by TurboTravis
What are your oil temps after a couple pulls?
Just noticed I never answered this.

190-200. The marvel of an aluminum pan and a wet block. Even Jeff's car doesnt get the oil hot...then again when the car only runs for 8.0 flat out its not a surprise.
Old Mar 26, 2014, 01:06 PM
  #70  
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combo goes in next week. I can't wait!
Old Mar 26, 2014, 01:50 PM
  #71  
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are aluminum rods stronger than lets say a manly I beam? i know all aluminum rods are different but in terms of fatigue and steel vs aluminum?
Old Mar 26, 2014, 04:33 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by mitsubeastlee
are aluminum rods stronger than lets say a manly I beam? i know all aluminum rods are different but in terms of fatigue and steel vs aluminum?
according to bill Miller at bme. His rods are made with a different process and are more stronger,and lighter than the steel on the market. He claims to have guys with v8s that have gone 30 to 40k on aluminum rods without problem. I'm going to install these and not touch them and see how long this motor goes. I don't think I'll ever have an issue but we will see in a week or two.
Old Mar 27, 2014, 05:52 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Jsiebert


combo goes in next week. I can't wait!
why such a heavy piston? is that from the 90s?
Old Mar 30, 2014, 12:27 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by 94AWDcoupe
why such a heavy piston? is that from the 90s?
They were free and unused. They are from 07 and they weight 318 grams. I was gonna chase the stock motor record but figured why the heck not throw these in when I got the rods so cheap. It'll hold me over til my cams are done for the 2.1. Plus I'll always have a spare motor to throw in if i haveissues.
Old Mar 30, 2014, 09:48 AM
  #75  
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What pistons are those? My HD2 pistons weigh 349grams so 319 is very light for a full skirt piston.


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