This. I have mine poking through the "evo" hole and it worked just fine.

Car should be running by Saturday. New tune and VDR will posted within a few days. The car has been down for 11 months now.


-Acree

 

I see in the picture on page 17 the the cam mark is 3.5 degrees to the right of center, isnt that advanced? I was under the impression that the mark should line up 3.5 degrees to the left of 0 on the 2.4's??

 

To be honest, it really doesn't matter. The whole idea of the adjustable cam gear is to get the centerline of the cam to match back up to the stock position. Since the 6mm deck height makes the belt naturally offset by 1/2 tooth mark when the motor is at TDC, you need to set the cam to 3.5* retarded, or advanced. Look at the picture again. The important thing to look at is where the blue tick mark is lined up, not the white. The blue mark lines up perfectly with the mark on the valve cover.

-Acree

 

But if you're using the EVO dowel pin you wont be able to use the blue mark to line up with the valve cover. Sorry for all the questions but I am also in the process of assembling my MAP built 2.4 with the same cam gears.

 

I said some and I don't need to backup my claims. Just believe it.

 

Lol sorry bro, but I don't know if you've ever heard of it or not, but people on the forums like to see justification. "Just believe it" doesn't fly.

-Acree

 

30 miles on the new motor and got to take her home tonight finally. I hope to put a good amount on the motor this weekend, and then tune for 30psi on E85. Should be able to break ~630hp or so. Check back for dyno charts!

-Acree

 

I can vouch for this also since i have the fidanza gear also and it is incorrectly mark its in the dsm hole on my car. I ask a few shops about it and they also stated that at least 1000 of them are incorrectly mark

 

I'll back it up. This has been true since Vishnu was selling his secret cam gears. Not new info.

 

in order for the degree markings to line up with the evo marks on the valve cover mine have to be in the dsm hole also and not the evo hole.. not sure if thats what he meant or not. with it in the evo hole the marks point sideways.

 

well?

 

I am now officially KevinD built and KevinD tuned.

I took the car up there last night to get the final bill of health and finalize the tune. I have 900 miles on the motor. Compression across all cylinders was dead even at 145. I've had zero oil consumption issues and have been checking it every 100 miles. We changed the oil, did a boost leak test, and then started tuning.

All I have are road logs atm, but VDR put the car well above 620hp. I'm not too quick to jump on those numbers. There's a mustang dyno here locally I will hitting up in the next couple of weeks. I'm expecting ~550hp on the mustang. This is all on 30psi and MAF.

After the car gets detailed, I will be posting up pictures along with the dyno results.

As a side note, I will say this: to anyone who is thinking about a street setup, this one can not be beat. This is my daily driver. The 2.4L has so much torque, I rarely need to get into boost driving around town. And when I do, the spool is so quick it's unreal. Absolutely an amazing combination of parts.

The only thing I will absolutely change at this point is the Hobb's switch. It kicks in at 5psi right now and causes some issues. When I'm in 5th gear and want to pass someone, I don't need to down shift. The turbo spools plenty quick and I have more than enough power. The problem comes when the Hobb's switch kicks in. I have a fuel pressure sensor hooked up to my Zeitronix. When the Hobb's kicks in, I see 100psi pressure spikes, and then the AFR goes to 21. The pressure is overrunning the stock FPR, and therefore my injectors are shutting off. I'm going to grab one that will activate somewhere in the 10-15psi range which should fix that problem. A new hobb's switch is cheaper than an aftermarket FPR.

-Acree

 

Glad you're back on the road!

 

That's great news Acree. It's about time man!

 

evod ftw.