Acree's MAP 2.4L FP Black Build
There was an audible tick the night before, but I thought it was a lifter tick. The entire day I stayed out of boost and the engine popped when I was in 5th around 65mph.
What's the reason a wrist pin would let go? Does it have something to do with the piston not having enough material?
-Acree
What's the reason a wrist pin would let go? Does it have something to do with the piston not having enough material?
-Acree
idk, but it appears to be the weak link on the stock bottom end . In all fairness though the vehicles I saw had full bolt ons running more than 24 psi +++ w/ some sort of stock turbo upgrade and were pulling double duty as both track & dd. 
Last edited by 38six; Jul 18, 2010 at 11:20 AM.
I hope one of the gurus chime in on this because I'm begining to wonder now? I remember a discussion at the track amongst a bunch of engineers and they were discussing about the evo stock bottom end is well built, and how much theoretically they can get away with by just upgrading the rod bolts and main bolts, there was no mention of the rods. So now I'm thinking that maybe the rods are not the weak link in the stock bottom end ? 
I'm trying to nail down which parts I need to purchase and there's a crap ton of scattered and potential incorrect information on the forums. I am going to go with speed density and there's not really a good thread that covers the hardware side of it (at least not that I could find).
As far as the fuel issues go, I believe I am going to try Tephra's idea with drilling the return T on the hangar to keep the fuel pressure at idle within safe range. Unless anyone has valid objections... I will be running with a BR double pumper with 8 gauge ran from the battery with FIC 1450cc injectors.
Can I use the stock fuel rail with these injectors?
Should I get rid of the stock FPR?
With speed density, am I still able to run a recirulated BOV? Is the Synapsis BOV a good one to run? I've read only good things.
I know I need an Omni-4bar MAP sensor. I don't want to run a 3 bar incase I want to up the boost later.
I need an IAT sensor. Which company is the best?
I also need an electronic boost controller. Can I use the GM 3-port successfully with my build and power level?
My current UICP is rusted so I need a new one. Which one do you guys recommend?
Also which intake should I run with? The FP 80mm intake should work for me since it has the recirculation arm.
Sorry for all of the questions. Building one of these things from the ground up is an incredible learning experience that take a lot of time.
I will also be tapping and plugging the EGR tube in the head with the appropriate ECU mods. Should I do this after or before sending the head to be ported?
-Acree
As far as the fuel issues go, I believe I am going to try Tephra's idea with drilling the return T on the hangar to keep the fuel pressure at idle within safe range. Unless anyone has valid objections... I will be running with a BR double pumper with 8 gauge ran from the battery with FIC 1450cc injectors.
Can I use the stock fuel rail with these injectors?
Should I get rid of the stock FPR?
With speed density, am I still able to run a recirulated BOV? Is the Synapsis BOV a good one to run? I've read only good things.
I know I need an Omni-4bar MAP sensor. I don't want to run a 3 bar incase I want to up the boost later.
I need an IAT sensor. Which company is the best?
I also need an electronic boost controller. Can I use the GM 3-port successfully with my build and power level?
My current UICP is rusted so I need a new one. Which one do you guys recommend?
Also which intake should I run with? The FP 80mm intake should work for me since it has the recirculation arm.
Sorry for all of the questions. Building one of these things from the ground up is an incredible learning experience that take a lot of time.
I will also be tapping and plugging the EGR tube in the head with the appropriate ECU mods. Should I do this after or before sending the head to be ported?
-Acree
I'm trying to nail down which parts I need to purchase and there's a crap ton of scattered and potential incorrect information on the forums. I am going to go with speed density and there's not really a good thread that covers the hardware side of it (at least not that I could find).
As far as the fuel issues go, I believe I am going to try Tephra's idea with drilling the return T on the hangar to keep the fuel pressure at idle within safe range. Unless anyone has valid objections... I will be running with a BR double pumper with 8 gauge ran from the battery with FIC 1450cc injectors.
Can I use the stock fuel rail with these injectors? YES
Should I get rid of the stock FPR? No need, I don't have a problem running the stock fp with the stock FPR and double pumper. If you were pusing to 800hp then I would reccommend it.
With speed density, am I still able to run a recirulated BOV? Is the Synapsis BOV a good one to run? I've read only good things. yep, you can still run recirculated if you would like. The Synapsis is one of the best BOVs on the market IMO for recirc.
I know I need an Omni-4bar MAP sensor. I don't want to run a 3 bar incase I want to up the boost later. Good reason!
I need an IAT sensor. Which company is the best? I would run the GM. Here is the GM sensor # 25036751 and the GM pigtail # 12102620
I also need an electronic boost controller. Can I use the GM 3-port successfully with my build and power level? Yep, you sure can. It would help hold boost better out the top then the TruBoost EBC. However, it because a mission to find a tuner that has mastered the ECU base boost control. I personally think that Bryan at GST is the best.
My current UICP is rusted so I need a new one. Which one do you guys recommend? ETS Short Route.
Also which intake should I run with? The FP 80mm intake should work for me since it has the recirculation arm. Personally I would just get the ER 4" intake w/ 9" Filter. There are pics in my thread. I love it and think it is much better than the FP!
Sorry for all of the questions. Building one of these things from the ground up is an incredible learning experience that take a lot of time.
I will also be tapping and plugging the EGR tube in the head with the appropriate ECU mods. Should I do this after or before sending the head to be ported?
-Acree
As far as the fuel issues go, I believe I am going to try Tephra's idea with drilling the return T on the hangar to keep the fuel pressure at idle within safe range. Unless anyone has valid objections... I will be running with a BR double pumper with 8 gauge ran from the battery with FIC 1450cc injectors.
Can I use the stock fuel rail with these injectors? YES
Should I get rid of the stock FPR? No need, I don't have a problem running the stock fp with the stock FPR and double pumper. If you were pusing to 800hp then I would reccommend it.
With speed density, am I still able to run a recirulated BOV? Is the Synapsis BOV a good one to run? I've read only good things. yep, you can still run recirculated if you would like. The Synapsis is one of the best BOVs on the market IMO for recirc.
I know I need an Omni-4bar MAP sensor. I don't want to run a 3 bar incase I want to up the boost later. Good reason!
I need an IAT sensor. Which company is the best? I would run the GM. Here is the GM sensor # 25036751 and the GM pigtail # 12102620
I also need an electronic boost controller. Can I use the GM 3-port successfully with my build and power level? Yep, you sure can. It would help hold boost better out the top then the TruBoost EBC. However, it because a mission to find a tuner that has mastered the ECU base boost control. I personally think that Bryan at GST is the best.
My current UICP is rusted so I need a new one. Which one do you guys recommend? ETS Short Route.
Also which intake should I run with? The FP 80mm intake should work for me since it has the recirculation arm. Personally I would just get the ER 4" intake w/ 9" Filter. There are pics in my thread. I love it and think it is much better than the FP!
Sorry for all of the questions. Building one of these things from the ground up is an incredible learning experience that take a lot of time.
I will also be tapping and plugging the EGR tube in the head with the appropriate ECU mods. Should I do this after or before sending the head to be ported?
-Acree
Mikey
Missed one. Thanks for the reply Mike.
I will also be tapping and plugging the EGR tube in the head with the appropriate ECU mods. Should I do this after or before sending the head to be ported?
-Acree
I will also be tapping and plugging the EGR tube in the head with the appropriate ECU mods. Should I do this after or before sending the head to be ported?
-Acree
I don't know to be honest. I don't even have a number in my head set for this thing once I'm done.
The main reason I'm doing SD is because I want improved drivability under 3k. One of the things I always loved about my 350z was the smoothness of the engine under partial throttle. Plenty of torque and smooth transitions between accel and decel made that car really enjoyable around town. Yes, the 350z was MAF, but I want my evo to do the same. Everything I have read points to SD.
-Acree
The main reason I'm doing SD is because I want improved drivability under 3k. One of the things I always loved about my 350z was the smoothness of the engine under partial throttle. Plenty of torque and smooth transitions between accel and decel made that car really enjoyable around town. Yes, the 350z was MAF, but I want my evo to do the same. Everything I have read points to SD.
-Acree
I don't know to be honest. I don't even have a number in my head set for this thing once I'm done.
The main reason I'm doing SD is because I want improved drivability under 3k. One of the things I always loved about my 350z was the smoothness of the engine under partial throttle. Plenty of torque and smooth transitions between accel and decel made that car really enjoyable around town. Yes, the 350z was MAF, but I want my evo to do the same. Everything I have read points to SD.
-Acree
The main reason I'm doing SD is because I want improved drivability under 3k. One of the things I always loved about my 350z was the smoothness of the engine under partial throttle. Plenty of torque and smooth transitions between accel and decel made that car really enjoyable around town. Yes, the 350z was MAF, but I want my evo to do the same. Everything I have read points to SD.
-Acree
