Thought id chime in. First im a DSMer, but I still prefer Shivs method. Even though Als Reflash is an excellent option, I prefer fine tuning myself. Ive thought about getting a reflash, simply for the rev limit increase, then fine tune it with my Xede.

Also - and Al you basically hijacked his thread. He made one simple, simple comment about reflashes and you jumped all over him Maynard.

 

Well - the guy basicall;y admitted above that he posted the negative stuff about reflashes JUST to "get back at me" All I have done is enagage in a civil debate to rationally discuss the benefits of reflash technology and DISPELL the false and misleading comments of this rich jerk who professes to be some kind of quasi-expert when in reality he knows nothing.

He claimed that the AEM can make more power - and more linear power than a reflash.

I posted dyno sheets to proove that he was WRONG and he was lying.

I guess there is a side benefit to having this guy call me to get a liust of all my parts and ask about all my ideas - - he has almost the same set up. Therefore, he and SFP won't be winning any braging contests agaisnt my set up anytime soon.

Your right - there are other options - but it is false and misleading to assert OPINIONS as facts and claim you know answers about things you really know NOTHING ABOUT.

Instead of just keeping his spoiled rich jerk mouth shut and just posting his own dyno sheets and enjoying what he is doing with his car - he ADMITS - that he chooses to "give something back to me" All I can say is if you want to give something back to me you'll have to go out and hire a better engine tunner and find more low end grunt . . . . .

 

John,

Great numbers, I would suggest also adding a detuned map based on 91oct for daily driving. So it will give a nice buffer zone on 93oct. Or incase you get a bad tank for mixed gas.

Looks great. I can't wait to see the dyno numbers.

 

How is running race fuel not realistic? I run race gas every time I go to the track. Then I put pump gas back in when I am done, turn the boost down, load up my street tune and I'm ready to go.

 

Selective reading shape? He said he isnt going to your 1320 sandbox he doesnt want to he wants it as his daily driver to run around with- therefore race gas is not realistic

 

1320 sandbox, that is funny.

Anyway, multiple people have made over 460hp to the wheels on an AWD dyno before with DSMs without nitrous, and on pump gas. With the right turbo these days (a 50-trim is just about perfect for pump gas power - big airflow at relatively low boost numbers) and the right tuning, it just isn't that big a deal.

But my point was that if you want to make really big power, throw in some race gas, tune it yourself (well, not that I'd trust you to tune your own car, MP5 ) at the track or a fun night on the street and you will make a whole lot of very safe power. Hell, I usually leave the gallon of 117 octane fuel in the tank after I drag race and fill up with 93 octane. It makes for a very fun week.

 

Oh your a slick one arent you Do you mean you consider tuning your own car being a knob and a fuel computer- well your right I dont tune that way for the past 3 years Ive been tuning my own car using electronic fuel/timing/and boost through a laptop. I know you DSMers dont consider that tuning but its the best I can do

 

Sure you have. That is why your car is "Kartboy enhanced and Vishnu tuned."

I don't use an AFC. Personally, I think that piggybacks are a bad idea overall, including the XEDE. They work ok for minor tuning changes. But after that, it just gets too complex to keep track of the side-affects.

I use DSMLink, which is an EPROM in the stock ECU. It allows you to change the base fuel and allows for deadtime compensation (something that no piggyback allows) for larger injectors. People have used >900cc/min injectors with DSMLink with no noticable driving affects. It also allows you to change the fuel enrichment map in 500RPM increments with interpolating inbetween. This is used when the ECU switches to open-loop. And it also allows you to change ignition timing. All of this is done without hacking into the airflow signal, which is critical if you want to tune without side-affects.

On top of this, it offers fantastic datalogging capability (knock, boost, wideband O2, airflow, hp, torque, airflow, airflow per rev, intake air temp, air to fuel ratio, speed, timing, injector on time, injector duty cycle, coolant temp, narrowband O2, open and closed loop mode, RPM, per cylinder knock, etc...). Hell, the datalogger is written in Java so you can add capabilities to it. I'm considering putting in a feature that will let you actually datalog volumetric efficiency. I've also graphed my airflow vs the pressure ratio of my turbo on its compressor map to see how efficiently it is working. It also will allow you to compensate for a hacked or aftermarket MAF. It also has MAP-based air metering with a volumetric efficiency table, but I have no reason to use it. It also lets you change the stock rev limit to whatever you want. It also has a launch rev limit and a clutch-cut rev limit for full-throttle shifting. It also has antilag and nitrous/water injection controls. And it retains full OBDII compatibility.

All for $600. Though I got mine for $475 because I bought it in the first month it was released. Hell, I sold my pocketlogger and my AFC and I just had to spend $50 to get DSMLink.

www.dsmlink.com

It does not control boost, however. But no matter, I'm programming my own PID boost controller that will actually sense boost instead of just plopping out a dumb BCS pulsewidth.

Yeah, knobs and piggybacks. That is what we DSMers are all about.

 

Why not find the linearization table in the stock ecu and swap to a bigger MAF...a nice Cobra Hitachi might work. MAP...burrrrr.

 

I have been sitting back but enough already! and wait a minute. When did you become king of flash. If I recall Works was the first to offer flashes, and they will do a custom flash if you want one so please stop coming off like you invented the flash! Also using an HKS kit and various other goodies is old news and old school we are a bunch of children with the Evolution. The UK has been tweaking and modding these for a while and that is were most are getting their cues from so lets all do a reality check.

 

That won't work. The ECU expects a very specific frequency to be put on its MAF pin. Other MAFs sometimes output a voltage instead, or the frequency is way off from what the ECU expects.

The 2G DSM MAF Translator probably WILL work, however:
http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/Dyn...TRANS2G3S&tpc=

It allows you to use a 3" or 3.5" GM hotwire MAF with a DSM. Since the DSM and Evo MAFs are very similar, it may just work.

 

Ahhh thank you for sharing that! =) So this is unlike the Nissan ECCS based MAF sensors (where output comes in voltage)? You'd basically have to spoof the frequency as well then? =(

 

The great thing about frequency based MAFs is that they are much less susceptible to external electronic noise influences than voltage type MAFs. As well, the resolution is much finer.

The GM MAFs actually report a frequency rather than a voltage for this reason, despite the fact that they are truly hotwire. The MAF-T basically massages the signal into something that a Mitsubishi ECU would want to see.

 

But, in my opinion, you can get to that level of power with half of the parts listed, half of the labor involved, and with stock ECU/Intake system.

It is a matter of true efficiency, more than "brut-force".

You need the right tuning tools (Dynojet is not one, for example).

Enjoy!

 

I hope you mean Ethanol/water not Methanol/water! Methanol (wood alcohol) is corrosive to aluminum and destructive to other fuel system components as well. Ethanol (grain alcohol/Moonshine) is not damaging to engine components and has the same octane boosting properties as Methanol.

Keith