Soft water would also be spot free water? If not then it seems soft water would be hard to obtain no?

 

Sodium chloride = salt. Not sure I like that idea with an iron block (or an aluminum head). I do fully agree with this comments in general about DI water attacking the head and block to pull ions out. My thought is that purified water makes more sense than soft water.

 

Yea I still feel uncomfortable using soft water. I'm in no hurry to make the switch. I will probably use purified when the time comes.

 

BUMP FOR THIS: NEW TOPIC:


What is the best coolant as far as:

- Actual cooling goes
- CORROSION inhibiting properties

As far as I've gathered, any time you use water in your coolant, you're basically exposing your system potentially to corrosion. Cars like mine that sit for long stretches, definitely.

- Seems like Evans Waterless is OUT as far as cooling properties - for whatever reason, they DO run much hotter than a "normal" coolant (http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm - biased obviously, but still good info)
- Ethylene Glycol based coolants are flat-out superior to Propylene based (i.e., Amsoil's is OUT, Evans is double-out)
- A name I've seen pop up frequently as far as "good" coolant goes is dex-cool. Not much info on it yet.
- One dude on a Jeep forums had some serious problems with Amsoil's version of water wetter (http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...code=RDCBCN-EA) as far as corrosion
- Looking into this no-rosion stuff as an additive to dex cool (http://www.no-rosion.com/productpage.htm)

As usual, thoughts are welcome.

 

please see post #1 for most up-to-date info

 

Good ol' deathcool

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1700365


http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...Action-Lawsuit



GM owners are saying dexcool works so long as fluid levels don't drop and the system stays pressurized, but we have a non pressurized overflow container so that may cause issues. I guess the dexcool doesn't react well with air introduced into the system.

 

Why would you state that? Granted, I am not a corrosion engineer but I do know a corrosion engineer a couple offices away from me (and I stayed in a Holiday Inn Express!).

I haven't studied the corrosion mechanisms in a car but if it is anything like everything else in the world, it is a bit more complicated than "there is water = corrosion."

What exactly is the issue?

• Oxidized iron getting into the coolant?
• Corrosive coolants eating away at the engine block thinning the coolant passage walls?
• Coolant being the electrolyte for a galvanic cell causing corrosion of engine parts?

Just talked to our rotating machinery engineer. He told me:

• the silicates stuff eating water pumps is bull****. Just change the green stuff annually. He has a lot of papers on it because the machinists were looking into it a few years ago. He personally runs G05 Ford/Chrysler coolants in his car.
• The corrosion mechanism in cars is the galvanic cell I listed above. I told him that distilled water is not an electrolyte to create that galvanic cell. But, apparently, there are still enough minerals in distilled water to create that cell, especially if it picks up minerals from the engine over time. During the summer when I run just water because the tracks don't like you to run coolant, use demineralized water and a water lubricant if I am feeling frisky. But, it is not going to matter much.

Step 1: ignore everyone on the internet including people on bobistheoilguy
Step 2: read some actual papers for yourself
Step 3: Use demineralized water and a water lubricant to best prevent the galvanic cell corrosion. This won't be such a good idea if the temperature in your area gets below freezing.

 

Gotcha. Pulled dexcool off the list.

Wow good info, thanks. I do need the anti-freeze property, which I forgot to mention.

 

So with that I'm thinking:

1) Flush the system using RMI-25

2) Run Zerex Asian Vehicle Anti-freeze coolant (http://www.valvoline.com//products/b...antifreeze/105) mixed 50:50 with demineralized water

3) Flush every year

Thoughts?

 

about to purchase some of this:


seems to be the best of what is available for our cars. anyone have any personal experience with it?

 

Zerex also has the G-05 which looks to be similar except its phosphate free.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/br.../antifreeze/42

Do we benefit from phosphate free coolant? My understanding of it is that its a requirement for German cars due to the minerals in the water in that part of Europe. Something with some minerals in their water not mixing well with Phosphated coolant and causing issues, we supposedly don't have that issue in the USA with our water.

Other than that, from the looks of reading through here I find that either the Zerex Asian vehicle or OEM Mitsu coolant seems to be best. So what exactly is the consensus when mixing water with coolant, do we use distilled, bottled, or tap?


Has anyone ever tried this? On the label itself its states its specific for Mitusbishi.

 

anyone got the ingredients to the diaqueen coolant for the 2006 evo 9

 

im thinking purified but not distilled, though i think zerex asia is a 50/50 mix anyway

 

Im thinking, buy some of the 50/50 and some of the concentrated, then just mix to your personal mix as you wish:50/50, 60/40, 70/30. Top off using the supply you have left over and then no worries about what kind of water you need.

 

Bumping this up as I'm finishing up a headgasket replacement and will need to refill my radiator with something.

I've read through this entire thread and while there is some great info I'm still a little hung up as to the best approach.

For starters I want to flush my system a couple times to help get out all the crap that has most likely entered my cooling system. Oil and coolant never mixed but its probably still filthy in there. When flushing it should I be using purified water or will tap water suffice?

Now what about those cooling system flush kits they sell at the local retailers? Are any of them good or is it a gimmick?

As for actual coolant, in the past I've simply used ordinary green stuff which is solely ethelyne glycol in a 50/50 mix with distilled water. It seems that distilled water is no longer what I should be using but rather purified water...is that correct?

Also, I recently bought a jug of Prestone extended life coolant which says it is phosphate, silicate, and borate free. This one right here: http://prestone.com/Prestone%C2%AE%2...freeze/Coolant

I looked on the back to see the ingredients and the main one is indeed ethelyne glycol but there are a few others which I believe gives it it's long life and the ability to mix with any other colors. Will using this stuff be fine or should I just stick with basic green coolant?